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The 3.2 is a great motor, and if the 733i is pre-1984 it will have the lightweight flywheel and hotter cam.
What a lot of you are failing to realize is the M30 is NOT about running to the red line, it's about a huge torque curve. The 3.2 with cam and flywheel is way more willing to run to the red line than a B35 is, and it only has ~30ft/lbs less max torque. Horsepower aside, you are taking a motor that is plenty strong enough to motivate a 5, 6 or 7 series, and putting it in a car that can potentially weigh up to 800lbs less than the car it came out of! A 3.2 with a mild cam upgrade, later electronics (059 ECU with Dinan chip for example) and some decent headers (Ireland Engineering has some for $425) would be awesome in an E30.
But i just got a b35 (e34), so i just need to make sure if it will bolts right on to b35.
Oh, there are 2 crank sensors ( just like eta 260) on the same side.
Do you think this 230K miles tranny + flywheel worth $250 ?
But i just got a b35 (e34), so i just need to make sure if it will bolts right on to b35.
Oh, there are 2 crank sensors ( just like eta 260) on the same side.
Do you think this 230K miles tranny + flywheel worth $250 ?
It should bolt on to the b35, but you wont use the flywheel sensors, at least I don't think, since the b35 uses motronic 1.3 which uses a cps instead. (Correct me if I'm wrong here someone)
As far as being worth 250, I dunno, I mean unless the flywheel is in very good condition and is one of the lightweight ones. My guess is the tranny is a 260/5, which is probably the least desirable, although still definitely usable, tranny's for the swap.
To put it in perspective, I nearly bought a getrag 265 (the most desirable, for sure, but imo the 260/6 is the best because it's easier) for $400 including the clutch and flywheel. I probably should have because I ended up getting my 260/6, with similar mileage to the above, around 250,000, for $50, got a lightened flywheel for $110 and a brand new clutch kit for like $280.
In retrospect that 265 was a good deal and I probably should have gotten it, but then again hindsight is 20/20.
Anyway I'm sure someone else will chime in with a more useful answer.
Originally posted by LJ851
I programmed my oven to turn off when my pizza was done, should i start a build thread?
If it is in fact the 260/5, it's is a decent transmission but is not as sturdy as the later 260/6 or the 265. Though... I'm not 100% sure the E23 ever came with the 260/5 since they were the largest BMWs of the era. Does the transmission have a removable bellhousing or is it a single piece? If the bellhousing can be removed, it's a 265 and you should snatch it up. If the bellhousing is a part of the transmission it's most likely the 260/5 and I would pass or at least talk him down a bit. Flywheels are cheap and very common, so I'd only consider that to be worth $25 to $50.
Even if it is a 260/5 it will bolt right up to your B35, and like the others said, you won't need the reference sensors if you use the B35 electronics. The driveshaft is an unknown here since the length of the 260/5 is different than the 260/6 and 265 (these two are the same length I believe), so you might have to have your driveshaft shortened or lengthened.
Here's a quick visual of my 262CR which is the same housing as a 265. If the tranny has a removable bellhousing like this, it is worth every red cent. By the way, I think the rear portion of my case has magnesium or something in it, it's very oddly colored. My 265 didn't have the same color at all. Weird.
Wow, thanks for the rapid responses...
I couldn't see from the top side as its still attach to the car.
The rear / lower mounting brackets kinda looks different from yours, it has 2 mounting ( 1 on each side, and 1 on the rear bottom of the tranny ) but i'm not sure.
Sweet score, that's a great tranny. It will bolt up just fine! Most B35s in E34s and E32s were mated to automatic transmissions so don't forget that you will need to install a pilot bushing in the end of the crank if there isn't one already.
Thanks Euroshark!
I will try again to get the clutch/flywheel off the motor....it keeps turning, so i need to hold the crank bolt up front.
...it was dark, i removed 2 of the pressure plate's bolts ( allen / hex),
and i think i got the next one stripped ( female hex bolt).
i wonder if a pair of vise grip would do it?
You might need a flywheel lock. I'm not sure of the part number but I got one for like $12 at the dealership. A generic one might work too... It just bolts to the back of the block and has a tooth that locks into the flywheel to prevent it from rotating.
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