Cooling your M30!
Fans
Good: Stock aux fan
Better: 16” pusher fan mounted on the radiator (or condenser if running AC**)
Best: 16” pusher fan mounted on the radiator (or condenser if running AC**) and 10” puller fan mounted just in front of the alternator.
**Use a fan gasket between the condenser and radiator to direct airflow into the radiator instead of around it
Fan switches/controllers
Good: Stock m20 90/92C switch
Better: OEM 80/88C switch, p/n 61 31 8 361 787
Best: PWM fan controller (try www.autocoolguy.com)
Water Pump
Good: Stock water pump
Better: OEM “hot climate” overdrive water pump pulley, p/n 11 51 1 706 781
Best: Electric Water Pump (EWP)
Air Con
Not a ton to say here, other than that it adds lots more stress to your cooling system (so be warned) but yes, it is 100% possible. Use all the stock M20 components (including compressor). In order to bolt the M20 compressor up to the M30 compressor bracket, you’ll have to grind the bracket some to make clearance. It’s easy enough with a Dremel or bench grinder. See some of my threads in this forum for details
Radiator
Use an E28 535i radiator. Others may fit as well, but this seems to be the overwhelming consensus as it’s the thinnest. If your engine is particularly far back, you could probably get away with a thicker radiator that would improve the cooling efficiency of your fans.
Component layout
Make 100% sure that your expansion tank is the highest point in your cooling system and that the cold coolant fill level is higher than the bleed screw on the thermostat housing. Your radiator should be lower than both the expansion tank and thermo housing
Bleeding
M30s are notoriously hard to bleed, and it’s usually because of component layout (see above). Ensure you’ve got that covered before starting bleeding or you’ll chase your tale forever. Once that’s done, they bleed just like an M20
Details on fans: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...oling-your-m30
Details on component layout: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...details-needed
Fans
Good: Stock aux fan
Better: 16” pusher fan mounted on the radiator (or condenser if running AC**)
Best: 16” pusher fan mounted on the radiator (or condenser if running AC**) and 10” puller fan mounted just in front of the alternator.
**Use a fan gasket between the condenser and radiator to direct airflow into the radiator instead of around it
Fan switches/controllers
Good: Stock m20 90/92C switch
Better: OEM 80/88C switch, p/n 61 31 8 361 787
Best: PWM fan controller (try www.autocoolguy.com)
Water Pump
Good: Stock water pump
Better: OEM “hot climate” overdrive water pump pulley, p/n 11 51 1 706 781
Best: Electric Water Pump (EWP)
Air Con
Not a ton to say here, other than that it adds lots more stress to your cooling system (so be warned) but yes, it is 100% possible. Use all the stock M20 components (including compressor). In order to bolt the M20 compressor up to the M30 compressor bracket, you’ll have to grind the bracket some to make clearance. It’s easy enough with a Dremel or bench grinder. See some of my threads in this forum for details
Radiator
Use an E28 535i radiator. Others may fit as well, but this seems to be the overwhelming consensus as it’s the thinnest. If your engine is particularly far back, you could probably get away with a thicker radiator that would improve the cooling efficiency of your fans.
Component layout
Make 100% sure that your expansion tank is the highest point in your cooling system and that the cold coolant fill level is higher than the bleed screw on the thermostat housing. Your radiator should be lower than both the expansion tank and thermo housing
Bleeding
M30s are notoriously hard to bleed, and it’s usually because of component layout (see above). Ensure you’ve got that covered before starting bleeding or you’ll chase your tale forever. Once that’s done, they bleed just like an M20
Details on fans: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...oling-your-m30
Details on component layout: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...details-needed
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