A lil maintenance.

[thebutcher37]

Here is some recent info, and some stuff i want to do to get my car running a bit more to my taste. AKA fresh out the dealer with the break-in engine period over.. HAHAH JK but kinda serious. The car is a 91 318is coupe m42Powah

So recently I steam/pressure washed most of the under of my car to see where exactly I'm leaking from, it turns out a lil from everywhere. :p

I want to do the m20 lightened flywheel and also while I'm there replace my rear main seal, because i see nice cleanish looking oil under my bell housing which to me seems like a leaky Rear. I feel like my clutch has been slipping here and there so i will of course replace my clutch, so thats why I'm like why not go light m20 flywheel on this bitch???. I have also noticed that now since there is no gunk under my car, for the most part. thats how i noticed the oil on the bell housing and also noticed oil flung around the tran. and trans tunnel. I have just within the past week smelled some ugly burnt oil like smell which turns out to be trans oil... Looks like im going to replace my rear output seal and selector shaft seal as well! all that oil seepage rotating it sprung oil all atop my CAT so there my burnt oil stench.... Yeah I have no heat shields.. I checked my Flex Disc (Guibo) and CSB (Center Support Bearing) and they have small cracks but still seem pretty in-tact.
But i did notice my CSB has a loose, I dont know what it is... a bearing cover? Ill post a pic so you can see.. does this mean i need to replace it? or possibly something else? I don't feel any awkward vibrations and what not.

Ive also felt like my car has been having some fuel starvation.... I want to replace my fuel filter, but its only been just shy over 1 year since i last replaced it. I want to upgrade to mustang injectors... if thats even an upgrade, or just change out the stockers cause they could be plugged possibly? i have to read up a bit more but since I'm here suggest away. I have an eBay chip but as soon as i get more important things fixed ill get me a Mark D. So my questions here are what could be causing my loss of power while driving.. and not all the time... very random and not too frequent I will be pedal to the floor (as if I'm passing someone) and it just feels like the car has run out of breath but I'm right in the power band, or other times it put put puts around as if hesitant. Is my Fuel pump my culprit?

IDK why i might need some encouragement or agreement on what I'm doing so Im just posting up a list of things I'm going to gather for these tasks!

For m20 flywheel
325i starter
325i Single mass Flywheel [what is a good light weight???]
325i Clutch kit [what brand/where would you recommend???]
325i throw-out bearing.

For Maintenance
Output Shaft Seal - p/n 23121205340
Selector Shaft Seal - p/n 23121282394
Flex Disc (Guibo) - p/n 26111225624
Center Support Bearing - p/n 26121226723
Rear Main Shaft Seal - p/n11142249533

For Shits n Gigs
Cop kit
new injectors ???
Mark D chip

I probably left some stuff out, but i just noticed ive been typing a lot and ill give it a rest...

[vpilarrt]

On your CSB - that looks like the inner bearing race, you sure you have any balls left? LOL. I'd replace it. For the M20 flywheel swap - you need the 323i throw-out bearing and put the spacer plate from your M42 flywheel between the M20 flywheel and the crank. You also need shorter flywheel bolts. See m42club.com for a write-up. As far as a lighter weight flywheel you have 3 options: 1) have the M20 flywheel lightened/machined 2) get an aluminum flywheel (big $'s) or 3) get a 323i flywheel (its 4-5 lbs lighter than the M20 IIRC).

[thebutcher37]

On your CSB - that looks like the inner bearing race, you sure you have any balls left? LOL. I'd replace it. For the M20 flywheel swap - you need the 323i throw-out bearing and put the spacer plate from your M42 flywheel between the M20 flywheel and the crank. You also need shorter flywheel bolts. See m42club.com for a write-up. As far as a lighter weight flywheel you have 3 options: 1) have the M20 flywheel lightened/machined 2) get an aluminum flywheel (big $'s) or 3) get a 323i flywheel (its 4-5 lbs lighter than the M20 IIRC).

does the CSB come with that bearing or do i need to order just that bearing?

Thanks for the heads up, i had just checked and the list for the m20 flywheel someone just recently posted up that the 325i setup works, so you don't need to get the 323 t/o bearing but i had forgot about the shorter bolts and what not looks like i need to make sure on that. I don't think i can find a 323i flywheel but i will keep it in mind.

But none the less Thanks for the info and siggestions.

[thebutcher37]

Update.

Hey everyone...
Yesterday i ended up changing out my transmission with the one that i bought from MR 325 (Matt).. ahh seesh idaknow like in january??? Im unsure exactly when i bought it but its been awhile and I've been saying i would put it on, but anyway!
Along with a new Sachs 3 piece clutch kit, i replaced the Rear main seal (crankshaft seal) on the engine...

So other than taking too long with this procedure everything went well, until i rolled the car off the lift... The trans feels like crap, i can barely get it into gear... First off while up in the air i put the car into all gears and they engaged smoothly so i thought i was in the clear... I then lowered the car off the lift and tried to reverse it out the garage. The car wouldn't go into gear.. i could click it over to the left but as soon as i push up to engage reverse it feels so tough like there was a barrier.

I eventually got it in reverse and drove it around the parking lot, but all gear engagements are rough and difficult, i basically have to double clutch every gear. There also seems to be excess vibration (never had much before) which I'm going to try and solve by replacing my flex disc (guibo) and center support bearing (CSB). I did mark the drive shaft and put it back the way it was when i took it off. And the clutch pedal does feel soft and i didn't bleed the clutch. I was told this should be the problem with my gears not engaging correctly.. Does this sound right? or is the transmission just not in good condition? any info on the new vibrations? could it really be both the guibo and CSB cause they are mildly worn and not torn up, but i never had vibrations prior to clutch job and trans swap period, let alone when i let the engine wind down on its own while driving...

One more question... Can/How do you adjust the clutch?

thanks for looking.

[thebutcher37]

needy

Nobody has any info/help?

[Adrian_Visser]

There is no adjustment for the clutch.

The clutch system shouldn't really need to be bled unless you opened the system but it does sound like it could be your problem.

As far as vibration goes did you put the guibo on the right way? There are alignment arrows that need to point the right direction. Is there fluid in the tranny? How were the tranny mounts did you tighten everything up good? i.e the crossmember bolts etc. (just asking).

[thebutcher37]

There is no adjustment for the clutch.

The clutch system shouldn't really need to be bled unless you opened the system but it does sound like it could be your problem.

As far as vibration goes did you put the guibo on the right way? There are alignment arrows that need to point the right direction. Is there fluid in the tranny? How were the tranny mounts did you tighten everything up good? i.e the crossmember bolts etc. (just asking).

Yes... i made sure the tiny almost unseen arrows all point toward where they were being mounted. i.e. to driveshaft flange and other arrows point toward output shaft flange. Yes there is also fluid.. i used the schools oil which i filled until it spilled out the fill hole. I also double checked the tranny mounts and crossmember bolts....basically everything i took apart got tightened down and double checked...

Today while driving i kinda felt a shaky feeling that felt rotational.. I started to think maybe i didn't torque down the flywheel well because it felt like the winding down on the engine while coming to stop seemed like a wobble...

anyway tomorrow i shall fix this!!! I hope!

Oh i forgot to mention when i was bleeding my (CSC) Clutch Slave Cylinder the thrust adapter.. fell out.. and didn't feel so secure when i pushed it back in. should i buy a new CSC?

[thebutcher37]

Another bit of info..

While in first gear and my foot pushing the clutch all the way down, my car creeps forward before i even let the clutch engage... The same happens when I'm in reverse, the car will creep backward while the clutch pedal pressed all the way down.

What can cause this? How do i fix it?

Could this also be the reason why my car doesn't go into gear well?


Come on people help me out, lol its been annoying having to drive my car around double clutching and rev matching, heel toeing just to get around.

[thebutcher37]

Update.

So last night...
I Dropped the transmission and inspected the clutch, you can rule out the possibility of putting in the clutch backwards..

I replaced:
Flex disc (guibo)
shift fork
shift fork pivot ball
shift fork spring

But after all was said and done, I put everything back together and got in my car... just to notice something went wrong, again...

Both clutch pedal and Brake pedal are very stiff.

and when i start the car the clutch pedal pumps itself rhythmically along with the spinning of the starter/flywheel...

Now what could this be.. what should i do? what could it be?

On another note,
I've noticed that the transmission that i just took out of my car, which was working fine (except for popping out of first gear) before the new clutch and different transmission, has a smaller input shaft and therefore uses a smaller inner diameter input bearing. While the transmission i just put in has a larger diameter input shaft, which requires a larger inner diameter input bearing. I want to know if this could be a problem, i'm sure its not, because either way the bearing fits right in, I'm just asking because maybe something is different somewhere else that may not be obvious, and that could be causing the problem.

[vpilarrt]

Did you do the M20 flywheel swap? I'm pretty sure you need the 323 TOB if you did - its longer which you need since the M20 flywheel is thinner and the M42.
Anyway, from your description it sounds like you clutch is not fully disengaging. This can be due to several reasons:
1) The input shaft is binding (could the new shaft be longer than the old one since you know the diameters are different?)
2) The clutch disc in binding on on the splined shaft
3) The TOB is not long enough
4) The TOB is binding on the tube it slides on
5) The hydraulic system is sticking (bad slave, master or fluid)
6) The flywheel is not properly seated on the crank
7) The tranny is not properly aligned to the motor (are you sure the 2 alignment sleeves are present and undamaged?)
8) The tranny is not fully seated to the motor (don't know why the smiley keeps showing up here, can't get rid of it)
9) others?

This is hard for anyone not there to diagnose, you're just going to have to keep at I'm sure you'll get it.
One thing I've learned in almost 40 years of fixing my cars (yeah, I'm an old f#$t) is that its usually the simple things that are broke, not the complicated ones - for whatever that's worth.

[thebutcher37]

Did you do the M20 flywheel swap? I'm pretty sure you need the 323 TOB if you did - its longer which you need since the M20 flywheel is thinner and the M42.
Anyway, from your description it sounds like you clutch is not fully disengaging. This can be due to several reasons:
1) The input shaft is binding (could the new shaft be longer than the old one since you know the diameters are different?)
2) The clutch disc in binding on on the splined shaft
3) The TOB is not long enough
4) The TOB is binding on the tube it slides on
5) The hydraulic system is sticking (bad slave, master or fluid)
6) The flywheel is not properly seated on the crank
7) The tranny is not properly aligned to the motor (are you sure the 2 alignment sleeves are present and undamaged?)
8) The tranny is not fully seated to the motor (don't know why the smiley keeps showing up here, can't get rid of it)
9) others?

This is hard for anyone not there to diagnose, you're just going to have to keep at I'm sure you'll get it.
One thing I've learned in almost 40 years of fixing my cars (yeah, I'm an old f#$t) is that its usually the simple things that are broke, not the complicated ones - for whatever that's worth.

Thanks for all the info...

I ended up swapping back in the trans i originally swapped out...and i can drive again.. just in time for Bimmerfest... (on another note it does feel more notchy now:( but at least i can shift more effortlessly) I chalked it up to the trans i was trying to put in just wasn't in working order like i believed.