I want a quiet engine!

[mr.vang]

check water pump

[hyperE30]

I'm currently having similar symptoms, didn't want to start another thread. Just recently started running rough from idle to 2,200 then seems to smooth out. From reading here and there I gathered its usually the chain tensioner if it is at lower RPM's. New timing chain tensioner is on the way, but I'm gearing up to replace the guide rails, it sounds like a diesel. I'll post a video soon...

DAmn same is with mine but the parts on the way for me..

My M42 timing chain tensioner failed at 129K and my engine suddenly became good for only a boat anchor. The new timing chain tensioner is a M44 tensioner if I'm not mistaken.

G-Man

yeap m44 supposed be better.. mine is at 156k damn I was bummed

Well it was running quite smoothly until this, now it sounds like a diesel. Anyways hopefully the new one will arrive soon as I don't have another car and I need to get to work, though it is only 3 miles away. I'm just praying its rectified with a new tensioner, rather than being a more serious problem.

Here is a soundclip, this was after warming it up a bit. You can hear where the rattle or noise dissipates at 2200-2400, when the revs are coming down:

Soundclip

Holly shit sounds exactly like mine... an hopefully its just the tensioner!!!

[Ryann]

When I bought my car it had this exact same noise w/ 118k on the clock. I replaced the timing chain tensioner piston with the updated version in less than 5 min. with a single 19mm wrench and the problem went away without returning.

tensioner piston p/n 11311743187 $39.11 from autohausaz.com

if you've got a higher milage engine other suspect timing components apparently are:

timing chain tensioner p/n 11311727342 $97.64 from autohausaz.com
timing chain guide p/n 11311247470 $53.44 from autohausaz.com

Remove your valve cover and take/post some pics of your cam gears and everybody will see where you stand in your quest for a quiet m42.

Run these part #'s by Blunt because his parts prices are awesome.

[bmwm42]

yeah +1 on that tensioner is a must to change out its cheap easy to do and could save ur ass from having to buy a new engine

[M42Technik]

tensioner piston p/n 11311743187 $39.11 from autohausaz.com

Damn, I overpaid. I forgot to contact blunt as well! Don't make the same mistake.

[M42Technik]

Replaced it. Still loud and diesel sounding, definitely not like before. When I pulled out the old tensioner I found a little piece of black plastic.

Time to replace the chain. :(

Should I even be driving with it this way? Or am I going to do serious damage?

[bmwm42]

time to replace guide rails and I wouldn't drive it around like that way to risky

[vegaskyle]

Replaced it. Still loud and diesel sounding, definitely not like before. When I pulled out the old tensioner I found a little piece of black plastic.

Time to replace the chain. :(

Should I even be driving with it this way? Or am I going to do serious damage?

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=185559

I got SUPER lucky. I made it the 1500mi home and when the chain guide finally split in half it didn't jump time enough for the pistons to hit the valves. I wouldn't recommend chancing it.

[gearheadE30]

If you have plastic bits coming out and the engine isn't running right, I'd park it now before you make things worse...

[browntown]

thick oil muffles all engine problems. 20/50

[M42Technik]

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=185559

I got SUPER lucky. I made it the 1500mi home and when the chain guide finally split in half it didn't jump time enough for the pistons to hit the valves. I wouldn't recommend chancing it.

Saw this thread, was hoping my M42 wouldn't be sharing the same fate.

Fuck there goes my Christmas money. Looks like I'll be walking to work for a while!

Now to buy parts and try and get a local friend to help out, I don't have another car to drive and this is my daily!

[vegaskyle]

Saw this thread, was hoping my M42 wouldn't be sharing the same fate.

Fuck there goes my Christmas money. Looks like I'll be walking to work for a while!

Now to buy parts and try and get a local friend to help out, I don't have another car to drive and this is my daily!

Pull your valve cover so we can see what the cam gears look like. The next steep for me would be to pull the upper and lower t-case covers. Had I done that before I bought parts I would have kept the old idler gear. It was in perfect shape but, I already bought a new one. If you are looking to save money you can prob reuse it too(unless it is the reason for your troubles, I know of one that failed). You can also most likely reuse the crank sprocket(the teeth are supposed to be pointy on this one). My upper guide was in great shape too but It's so cheep I'd just replace it. The best prices I found were at Tischer for the OEM BMW stuff (before I knew about blunt here). I got the idler off ebay for $40 or so. I bought everything else from Pelican (I like dealing with them, free shipping, and it shows up the next day).

It's not too hard of a job. Prior to this I had never done anything harder than replace a starter on an old Nissan. I'm not experienced or skilled in auto repair but I'd like to think I'm mechanically inclined and capable of following directions.

The e36 Bentley does a good job of describing the process. I also used Brendan Purcell's writeup. The only part I was worried about going in was the crank bolt. I went with the block of wood/starter method and it worked like a charm. I'd highly recommend it. For the crank locking tool I used that piece in the tool kit you use with the spark plug tool (a long chrome dowel with a grey plastic handle) but I think a drill bit or screw driver would wok fine too. I also didn't have a cam locking tool which turned out to be fine. The plan going in was to use a pair of crescent wrenches and duct tape/zip tie them together. My chain jumped 1 or 2 teeth and it was out of time at TDC so I wouldn't have done any good. I just used a wrench on the back of the cams while I tightened the cam bolts. Then used a level to check they were parallel to each other. The first time I nailed it in about 2 min, after taking everything apart to fix a problem the second time took about 20 min.

The only hard part aside from having to do it all twice because of a little fucking piece of chain guide was dealing with the AC compressor and bracket. It was a pain in the ass to get on/off just to reach 2 bolts on the lower cover. The crank seal was also kind of hard, I think it says to "tap" it in, took more than a tap for me to get it in there. Had I not been so easy on it to start with I would have been a 5 min job.

If I didn't have to go back and redo everything I'd say it took me 6 hours start to finish. It would have gone quicker if I had more tools (different socket extensions and u joints would have helped) and wasn't so methodical (think zip lock bags with contents numbered and labeled). If you get someone to help you it may speed it up a little, but honestly if I can do it anyone can.

I think I spent just under $400 and replaced a few things that weren't absolutely necessary. Depending on what you need/want to replace and how much you shop around you should come in somewhere around there.

[M42Technik]

Thanks, that makes me feel better about tackling this job. I just wish I had garage space and it wasn't 20 degrees out.

I'll be speaking to blunt once I have a parts list (going off Brendan Purcell's). I'll probably end up getting it all ahead of time, I don't want to open the timing case covers and see I need an extra part I have to wait to get shipped to me, and better replace it all in one shot. Going to do the water pump and thermostat too while I'm in there.

[M42Technik]

Finally getting around to the job. Removing the AC compressor to get to the lower chain cover, I found it wreaks of refrigerant. I'm hesitant to continue as the compressor would be dangling without its bracket, and maybe leaking.

[Car Addict]

^why not just ziptie it up out of the way so it is not hanging. Or if sulfide won't work put something underneath to support it.

As for people saying the m42 is not a quiet motor when it was new. I am having a hard time believing that since my m42 is almost silent after a timing, and topend rebuild which included new hydraulic lifters. Will put up a vid soon.