Just Bought A 318is with Engine Problems, A Few Questions

[Rakshas]

Hey There,

I'm new here, but some of you may recognize me from bimmerforums or m3forum where I've been a member for some time. I've had an E36 328is and an E46 M3, but just today bought my first E30, a 2 owner White on Tan 318is in excellent condition...except for its engine.

As far as I can gather, the car has been sitting for about a year due to an engine problem that the PO just didn't want to deal with. Apparently it was started yesterday as another party inspected it, and it will start and run, but it sounds terrible, as though there is a clattering clanking noise from the front of the engine.

According to the seller, the car has received a new water pump, radiator, tstat and hoses just before it sat, as well as an M44 timing chain tensioner around 40k miles ago (227k miles now).

This along with my research searching through the forums has me thinking that the chain guides are gone and that the chain itself is probably in need of replacement. Seem like a plausible explanation?

I'd like to keep the M42 in there if possible, and keep the car basically stock(maybe switch to a Z4 shifter assembly and buy the stock IS lip). I have the M3 for speed, so this would basically be a nice peppy daily that I could drive for a few months and then give to my father. As such I'm shying away from a 24V swap and would just like to rehab the M42.

My current plan of action as soon as I receive the car later this week is to:

-Replace Battery, Plugs, Plug Wires
- Pull plugs and attempt to rotate engine by hand to check for valve to piston contact (i'm afraid the chain jumped and fubar'd the pistons)
-Perform compression test on all for cylinders to confirm presence/absence of contact. Sounds like the numbers should be around 200 on all four cylinders?
- Drain oil, drop Lower pan, retighten and locktite all loose bolts on upper pan. (How common is the issue where the pan gasket shifts? Really do not want to deal with spun bearings or damage due to loss of oil pressure)
- Assuming everything checks out so far, dump coolant, dissassemble front timing cover, replace all four sprockets (Crank, idler, 2 camshafts), 4 chain guides, tensioner, related gaskets.
-Reassemble, fill with oil and coolant, replace trans and diff fluid, pray it works?

I'm not a guru on these engines so any criticism on this plan would be MUCH appreciated. I'm crossposting over on M42club so my apologies in advance to the many of you who will probably see this twice.

Additionally, is there any sort of loan system for the camshaft and crankshaft lock tools? I'd rather not spend close to a hundred dollars for tools I only plan on using once, and i'd be more than happy to compensate someone for letting me borrow them.

This is the parts list I compiled so far:

Upper Timing Case Gasket Set 11141721919

Lower Timing Case Gasket Set 11141721802

Lower Oil Pan Gasket 11131709815

2X Camshaft Timing Sprockets 11311721887

Crankshaft Timing Sprocket 11211247338

Woodruff Key 07119951480

Idler Sprocket 11311727569

Upper Chain Guide/Slide Rail 11311721641

Lower Chain Guide 11311721419

Passenger Side Chain Guide/Tensioner 11311727342

Driver Side Chain Guide/Tensioner 11311247470

Piston Type Tensioner 11311743187

Timing Chain 11311247160

Crankshaft Seal 11141439570

Valve Cover Perimeter Gasket 11121721876

3X Valve Cover Spark Plug Gasket 11121721476

Valve Cover Spark Plug Gasket (Lollipop Shape) 11121721475

Which should hopefully cover everything? Is Tischer the cheapest place to shop for it all as with the E46?

Thank you so much for all your help in advance, I really appreciate any guidance on getting this thing running.

[vegaskyle]

It looks to me like you nailed it. Pop the valve cover off and you'll get an idea what shape the timing components are in. Also you'll be able to tell if it jumped time (compression test is a good idea too). I found pieces of the guides in the oil pan, that and noise at 3k rpm was my cue to replace the timing components.

You'll need one of these too 1-14-1-247-837.

Replacing everything is never a bad idea but you can judge for yourself once you get in there. I replaced my idler but wouldn't have done so if I didn't already have the part, it was like new. My cam sprockets and crank sprocket were also in great shape so I kept them. If you know the water pump, tensioner and t-stat to be new I'd keep them.

Tischer was the best for OEM BMW stuff, the idler I found new on ebay for $40 or so, everything else I got from Pelican.

[Rakshas]

It looks to me like you nailed it. Pop the valve cover off and you'll get an idea what shape the timing components are in. Also you'll be able to tell if it jumped time (compression test is a good idea too). I found pieces of the guides in the oil pan, that and noise at 3k rpm was my cue to replace the timing components.

You'll need one of these too 1-14-1-247-837.

Replacing everything is never a bad idea but you can judge for yourself once you get in there. I replaced my idler but wouldn't have done so if I didn't already have the part, it was like new. My cam sprockets and crank sprocket were also in great shape so I kept them. If you know the water pump, tensioner and t-stat to be new I'd keep them.

Tischer was the best for OEM BMW stuff, the idler I found new on ebay for $40 or so, everything else I got from Pelican.

What part does that pn correspond to? Can't seem to find it on realoem or tischer.

[vegaskyle]

#4

[e304me]

if i were you i would look for a lower mileage e36 (or e30) m42 and swap that in. Spending so much on an engine that probably doesnt have much left is just not a good idea. Either rebuild the whole thing or get a different engine.

[Rakshas]

if i were you i would look for a lower mileage e36 (or e30) m42 and swap that in. Spending so much on an engine that probably doesnt have much left is just not a good idea. Either rebuild the whole thing or get a different engine.

I wouldn't mind doing that if I could find one, but wouldn't it need the timing guides addressed anyway? Seems like a problem that persisted throughout model years.

Additionally, can an E36 M42 be adapted to work? I was under the impression that the added knock sensors made it untenable.

[vegaskyle]

I wouldn't mind doing that if I could find one, but wouldn't it need the timing guides addressed anyway? Seems like a problem that persisted throughout model years.

Additionally, can an E36 M42 be adapted to work? I was under the impression that the added knock sensors made it untenable.

You can make an e36 M42 work, there is a writeup on M42club. You can't just drop it in like you can one from an E30. 227k isn't bad. If you address the issues it has now it could keep going for who knows how long. If the valves aren't bent your compression numbers will give you an idea how good of shape its in too. Like you said you are most likely going to have to replace the guides regardless or what engine you choose. Find out if the pistons hit the valves first then it will be a little more clear what to do.

Side note, was this the car that was for sale in Monterey on CL? If so it looks like a hell of a deal.

[Massimo]

Don't replace the leads get the Coil Over Plug kit from rob on M42club its cheaper and removes a fail point on the engine.

Also just some general stuff you should do, while doing the timing system change out the lifters and put the light weight VW lifters in, there is a topic on M42club about it, this will remove the chance of them ticking anytime soon and they are lighter which is always a good thing. Then do the Heater plate delete once again on M42club, thats if it dose not snow where you are. This gets rid of a lot of water hoses that could fail any time. Replace the injectors with mustang injectors they are 4 pintle and people have reported better fuel enconamy and a more responsive engine from them.

Personally if I were you i would do a head gasket replacement kit while you are at it then you know the engine will be all good and will last you many a years to come with out any issues.

And welcome to the E30 world

Massimo

[Ryann]

Tischer was the best for OEM BMW stuff..

Autohausaz.com has by far the best prices, products, website, and service that I've experienced so far, plus free shipping on $50+ orders. Bonus: West Coast people will get their orders in LESS than a week.

[vegaskyle]

Autohausaz.com has by far the best prices, products, website, and service that I've experienced so far, plus free shipping on $50+ orders. Bonus: West Coast people will get their orders in LESS than a week.

The only OEM BMW stuff I bought were the 4 guides and Tischer was less on all of them. They did take about a week to get so if you are in a hurry this may be a better option.

[Rakshas]

This is indeed the Monterey car. Just got it into my garage and started tearing it apart today, looking like I might go ahead and do everything including the HG and the hoses under the intake.

[e304me]

I wouldn't mind doing that if I could find one, but wouldn't it need the timing guides addressed anyway? Seems like a problem that persisted throughout model years.

There are some in cali with under 100k. They updated the guides at some point, and most of the e36's used a different design (no idler gear)

[3bvert]

I agree with cop kit, mustang injectors and get rid of the throttle body heater crap.
everything else your doing sounds good and wise. make sure you get the newer version tensioner rails and the different bolt neded to install the long one. Alos the spring loaded tensioner

pelican, autohaus, e-bay are my main sources of parts as well as these forums . m42 club has lots of good write ups

did you find someone to borrow the cam tools from ?

does/did the ac work, if not get rid of that drag unless you need it
same with p/s
and of course a dinana or other chip for the computer is nice too
fuel filters

[Rakshas]

Ended up doing:

Head Gasket
Profile Gasket
All Guides
All Gears except idler
chain
Deleted TB heater and simplified vacuum setup
Exhaust gaskets
Exhaust Hangers
Plugs
Tensioner
All filters, replaced oil with Castrol 20w50 dino
All Coolant hoses/pipes
more that I can't remember now, essentially a total refesh minus tearing apart the bottom end.

I ended up timing the cams using a straight edge and a 3/16th's quarter inch drive socket to lock the flywheel. Simple and straightforward, worked perfectly, but stressful enough to make me decide to never try and time my S54 at home. :D

Only problem is the car still will not hold an idle. It seems like it tries to, and sometimes even can for about 30 seconds, but always dies eventually. Going to clean ICV and check my vacuum lines, but still trying to track down the problem.

Other than that, when you control the throttle manually it runs like a peach. Pulls well, revs smoothly, no odd sounds or vibrations. As soon as she idles it'll be a great DD!