Self Grenading M42 Part 2 : The FIX....

[fiftytakedowns]

I'll try adding some of that ATF and see If it helps, Im getting some aggressive clanking from the top of the engine.

EDIT:
THE clanking just occurred today, not yesterday. I hink it may be due to lower oil pressure. Ill get in some more oil and see how it works.

[KenC]

The ticking should go away after the lifters pressurize. What weight oil are you using? You can run a quart of ATF in lieu of oil for a couple thousand miles. The detergents will clean the gunk out of them.


To the other guy:
Don't use a gun on the crank bolt. Just put the car in 5th with the e brake on and use a long breaker.

[blalor]

I've got a pretty consistent ticking, but I think it's coming from one of the injectors.

[fiftytakedowns]

As for torquing that 22mm bolt, mine's not tight enough. The tightening spec is, what, 220 ft-lb or 320 ft-lb? I kept the flywheel locking tool in place and torqued the bolt to 140 ft-lb (the limit of my torque wrench) and called it a day. I'm not happy about that and need to find a way to make it tighter, but my flywheel locking tool doesn't look strong enough to take the load. Not sure I can put that much torque on the bolt with a breaker bar without caving the fender with my ribcage, either. ;)

You didn't ditch the vibration damper, right? Just the pulleys attached to it? The damper has the teeth on it for the crank position sensor…

I just ditched the pulley attached to the Vibration damper.

the car is running now.

JB welding the Radiator as we speak. Im going to try and get some gun and see if I can torque it that way. that would be IDeal.

got the car started, tensioner has some pressure and it's running, although it's a bit rough.

I get sort of a ticking noise as if someone hasnt adjusted their valves. anyone familiar with this?

[blalor]

As for torquing that 22mm bolt, mine's not tight enough. The tightening spec is, what, 220 ft-lb or 320 ft-lb? I kept the flywheel locking tool in place and torqued the bolt to 140 ft-lb (the limit of my torque wrench) and called it a day. I'm not happy about that and need to find a way to make it tighter, but my flywheel locking tool doesn't look strong enough to take the load. Not sure I can put that much torque on the bolt with a breaker bar without caving the fender with my ribcage, either. ;)

You didn't ditch the vibration damper, right? Just the pulleys attached to it? The damper has the teeth on it for the crank position sensor…

[blalor]

As for torquing that 22mm bolt, mine's not tight enough. The tightening spec is, what, 220 ft-lb or 320 ft-lb? I kept the flywheel locking tool in place and torqued the bolt to 140 ft-lb (the limit of my torque wrench) and called it a day. I'm not happy about that and need to find a way to make it tighter, but my flywheel locking tool doesn't look strong enough to take the load. Not sure I can put that much torque on the bolt with a breaker bar without caving the fender with my ribcage, either. ;)

You didn't ditch the vibration damper, right? Just the pulleys attached to it? The damper has the teeth on it for the crank position sensor…

[blalor]

Engines don't "jump time" or skip a tooth.

…

Now something could have broken to the point of things hitting one another but I have never in my life seen a motor jump time. Even with a belt.

John, this is exactly what happened to my M42. :( The idler sprocket lost its bearings (literally; they were in the oil pan), and the excess slop in the chain allowed it to hop at least one tooth on the intake cam. Result: bent valves. The engine still ran, tho, kind of. Like Ryann said, you couldn't help but notice, but it definitely happened…

[fiftytakedowns]

How can I lock the flywheel without pullin the tranny?

and did you just GOB JB in there or what?

Thanks

[Dj Buttchug]

you can lock the flywheel and torque the crank pulley bolt down.

I always have good luck with jb weld on small holes in radiators... ghetto, but it works well

[fiftytakedowns]

So today I nearly finsihed the entire timing chain rebuild.

all I have left to do is Torque the 22MM Crank pulley, and add the eight bolts on the pulley. I got rid of the front dampener for the power steering and AC cause I have niether. 3lb ROTational WEIGHT LOSS FTW.

How does one torque that 22mm bolt without a gun?



I did find a puncture; A tiny tiny leak in the radiator. I threw in a raw egg cause I was so fed up. anyone else know how to fix a little leak in the radiator?

[Ryann]

Gear tooth wear and chain wear/stretch are married. If you replace one and not the other it will speed the wear of the newer component. Best thing to do IMO is to replace the guides and tensioner while leaving the rest alone, unless your cam gears are completely shot. In that case, it's best to replace everything.

[fiftytakedowns]

Okay, So how far into the replacement parts should I go...

I already have 4 new camshaft sprockets, and hte idler gear and crank gear look to be in some good shape........

I mean I know I will be replacing the rail.
but is the chain and the tensioner/ tensionor guide necessary?

Thanks.

[fiftytakedowns]

the idle gear was in perfect shape, should I just pass on the crank gear then?

[Ryann]

Wondering if I should replace the crank sprocket.... it's teeth are spikey...

The crank and idler gear teeth are normally "spikey-er" than the cam gears.

[fiftytakedowns]

I could see it happening in the m42 though. If the tensioner went out slightly, or pressure dropped per se... OR they have adjustable cam gears, so if it got loose, and spun +3 or-3º in one way or the other.

But anyway..

found the problem..

It was a timing chain guide rail that was KAPUT.

Wondering if I should replace the crank sprocket.... it's teeth are spikey...