FIXED: Stuttering at 3k RPM.. has anyone figured this out? --- VIDEO INSIDE

[mangomango]

To OP, was the sensor the culprit? i have a very similar problem, almost exact really, but i did not see in this thread if you actually got it fixed or not.

[AndrewBird]

then you will have to explain to me how I had the same problem (5k rpm shudder), which was resolved by lowering the gap of my plugs, I was given this solution by Mark D.

It was possible related issue to insecure plugged in spark wire or similar.
I had the same thing happening to my car, turned our bad afm and/or loose/rusty groud on the coil pack. While diagnosing this issue i changed plugs and wires also....so at the end all small thing have to be attended and resolved. Remeber, the yongest e30 is almost 20 years old now!

What he said.

Likely purely coincidence that re-gapping the plugs did anything at all. Think about it. All a spark plug does is create an arch between two points in order to ignite fuel mixture. It really doesn't matter how much of a spark there is in order to ignite that mixture, as long as there is one. Yes, there is an "ideal" gap, but having it off either way by a little bit isn't going to grossly affect how the engine runs.

OP - Have you checked to see if your crankshaft pulley is loose? Could be causing the squealing and also giving a funky crank signal. It almost seems like you maybe spun a bearing, but that is more of a knocking sound, not so much a squealing. Figure out where the squealing is coming from and you will likely find your problem.

[Nairb]

Throwing code: 1244.. camshaft sensor. Recently replaced with a brand new OEM camshaft sensor.

[Nairb]

Updated Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKeFjYPRml0

Took the valve cover off today, dinked around with the springs.. they all looked fine. None of them were any easier to compress than another. Hand cranked the engine and they all compressed, no weird noises or anything out of the ordinary.

Changed my plugs with NGK BKR6EK plugs.. pre-gapped.. my valve tick went away once I changed the plugs.

However, the car is now not revving past 3K.. still stuttering. Warmed the car up all the way, and still sounds like it's hitting rev limiter or missing. I am completely stumped.. the car still idles like a boss and in the video that is with AC on..

Could one of the coils have gone bad?

The car is squealing terribly.. sounds like a belt, but not really.. sounds very metallic.

I checked the water pump not too long ago, the car was still squeaking and everything looked fine..

Completely out of ideas other than maybe a coil plug died or something..

[Nairb]

Contacted Metric Mechanic about a 2100 Rally Engine... :shock:

[Nairb]

Pulled my plugs today.. the 2 inner plugs were both fouled with carbon. Re-torqued and put them all back. As I started the car, the engine sounded a lot smoother.. until I applied a little throttle, that is when the ticking began. It engaged almost like it "clicked" on. The engine has always had a slight tick, but now it is distinct and in your face.

The car would not rev past 3000 RPM..

[mr ilia]

then you will have to explain to me how I had the same problem (5k rpm shudder), which was resolved by lowering the gap of my plugs, I was given this solution by Mark D.

It was possible related issue to insecure plugged in spark wire or similar.
I had the same thing happening to my car, turned our bad afm and/or loose/rusty groud on the coil pack. While diagnosing this issue i changed plugs and wires also....so at the end all small thing have to be attended and resolved. Remeber, the yongest e30 is almost 20 years old now!

[lostbeachbum]

Plug gap is not that critical. Hence why those round tools even exist. You can be 0.010 off and MAYBE notice a difference.

then you will have to explain to me how I had the same problem (5k rpm shudder), which was resolved by lowering the gap of my plugs, I was given this solution by Mark D.

[AndrewBird]

Remove your spark plugs and Gap your plugs to .22. do not use one of those cheap round spark plug gap tools, use feeler gauge to get an more accurate gap. When your done let me know so I can send you my paypal information so you can thank me! :jk: hahah

Plug gap is not that critical. Hence why those round tools even exist. You can be 0.010 off and MAYBE notice a difference.

[Nairb]

Oh, sorry.. no, no updates yet.. just got back to school and been busting my ass there. Been riding my bike and other car around town.. e30 just sittin' pretty.

Have not double checked that valve spring.. but all I know is I drove it the day after the diagnosis and it was having trouble revving past 3500 RPM..

The main ground wire is pretty secure.. I'll check my plugs again I guess.

[lostbeachbum]

Remove your spark plugs and Gap your plugs to .22. do not use one of those cheap round spark plug gap tools, use feeler gauge to get an more accurate gap. When your done let me know so I can send you my paypal information so you can thank me! :jk: hahah

[mr ilia]

Agree, not valve spring.

This is electrical...posibly something simple, like bad ground wire.

[immajackuup]

bs on valve spring

[Ryann]

Any updates?

[Nairb]

Ok so, spent an hour with the mechanic today.. he initially thought it was a fuel related problem, but testing fuel pressure and tried using some carb cleaner or something to see if it would rev past 4200 (which is now what it is going to) and it would not.

Then he tested my plugs/coils to make sure they were all working properly.. and they were. We then swapped ECU's (again) and the car still won't rev past 4200 under load.. (if you walk it up, you can take it to about 4500)

He says it is MOST LIKELY a broken valve spring, which would make sense as this problem has been getting worse and worse over the last 4-5 months.

Will pull valve cover and test the springs and report back.