M42 Head Gasket Replacement

[KenC]

Don't re-torque them. They're stretch bolts. You're not putting any more pressure on the head gasket when you try and torque them again.

Also, unless you're continuously holding the torque wrench while you wait between torque stages, you're not really doing anything. It's best to just hold the wrench for a good 5-10 seconds after tightening each bolt.

[e30jr88]

What did you use to clean up the Head and the block? I'm in the process of doing this job aswell so glad that I don't have to take off the cams.

Also I was wondering how to put the car in TDC i've never really understood if there is a special tool needed. I've seen a few write ups for my M3 were people use some sort of pin that locks the flywheel. Just trying to figure that out since I'm at the stage where after removing the intake and exhaust manifold I'll be able to remove the head.

[Massimo]

What did you use to clean up the Head and the block? I'm in the process of doing this job aswell so glad that I don't have to take off the cams.

Also I was wondering how to put the car in TDC i've never really understood if there is a special tool needed. I've seen a few write ups for my M3 were people use some sort of pin that locks the flywheel. Just trying to figure that out since I'm at the stage where after removing the intake and exhaust manifold I'll be able to remove the head.

I used 3M rocla pads for the block and pistons. The head is alloy so I wouls say take it to a shop and have them give it a bath.

As for locking the fly wheel I found the guide pin in the tool tray in the boot works, just fine.

[e30jr88]

As for locking the fly wheel I found the guide pin in the tool tray in the boot works, just fine.[/quote]

Any pictures on where it goes exactly? I havent been down there yet to take a look but I'd like a reference to know what I'm looking for.

So far my list for parts is:
-head gasket
-all intake and exhaust gaskets
-new thermostat
-new injector O-rings because injectors are mad dirty.


Am I missing anything or anything else I should do while she's in the open?

[Massimo]

No I don't but it is on the intake side of the engine run your hand down there you will feel it. Mine actually had the orange/red cap on it still which made it a bit easier. Here is a link to my build thread where I did my HG

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=180317&page=2

Get a head gasket kit that will come with everything you need, pretty much. But as always something dosn't go to plan like mine. I went in for a HG replacment and ended up doing the timing case gasket and components.

[KenC]

You don't really need to lock the flywheel. Just don't rotate the crank while you're putting it all together.

[Simon S]

Any pictures on where it goes exactly?

One way to put it would be: "below the starter".

Above is a picture of the white plug to remove for said hole. You can see shift arm carrier in the transmission tunnel behind it.

[e30jr88]

One way to put it would be: "below the starter".

Above is a picture of the white plug to remove for said hole. You can see shift arm carrier in the transmission tunnel behind it.

Thanks alot! Will try and look for it tonight, after removing the water pump.

Question: when I take the head to be resurfaced, how do I go by making sure that the top end stays "in time" so that I wont have timing issues when installing?

[Ed MacVaugh]

Note that the stock style bolts are "torgue to yield" bolts as opposed to ARP which are not. You really want to scrupulously follow the factory instructions and then leave them the hell alone. The two 90 degree turns on the bolts stretch the bolts to their yield point where the metal permanently stretches because the amount of compression on the headgasket is most repeatedly accurate that way. Using the instructions from the ARP set or mashing teh two sets of instructions togther won't gain you anything and could pop the ehad off the bolt.