Before I swap in....

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  • craiggroves91
    replied
    compression is good
    1-4
    215, 210, 215, 210

    Leave a comment:


  • 3bvert
    replied
    your car will run wiht the throttle position control valve unpluged.
    It will run like crap if you have a bad one

    you can test it by unplugging and starting, run good, better, then replace

    still got the throttle warmer crap, get rid of it, prob can be there and you can not see the hoses

    without seeing a comp test, I too suspect externals

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  • craiggroves91
    replied
    Originally posted by xwill112x
    Compression Test. Then post back.

    Hopefully doing one tomorrow!

    Originally posted by io_RobbieRodgers
    The biggest concern I would have is that you could swap in a new motor, and you'd still have the same problem due to the fact that it was the peripherals. When you unplug the ICV, does it run fine? Does it run well driving around like that?

    If it's a problem internally in the motor, my first instinct would be dirty cylinders, holes in the headgasket or worn out piston rings.

    The first thing you should do, though you've probably already done this, is check all the vacuum lines around the intake. If you've got some spare time, take off the manifold and see how crappy it looks around the injectors and towards the intake valves.

    It could also be an ignition wire problem, but if your car runs better without the ICV plugged in, I'd look around more in that area.
    Well I think it runs better with the ICV unplugged because it raises the idle. When it idles low it wants to die. ICV connected or not it still runs wrong with a misfire type sound, but it feels decent through the rev range.
    I have checked out the vac lines, but ill look some more!


    Originally posted by io_RobbieRodgers
    +1 on the compression check, that'd alert you to piston ring failure or worn valve seals.

    tomorrow I should be doing one!

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  • io_RobbieRodgers
    replied
    +1 on the compression check, that'd alert you to piston ring failure or worn valve seals.

    Leave a comment:


  • io_RobbieRodgers
    replied
    The biggest concern I would have is that you could swap in a new motor, and you'd still have the same problem due to the fact that it was the peripherals. When you unplug the ICV, does it run fine? Does it run well driving around like that?

    If it's a problem internally in the motor, my first instinct would be dirty cylinders, holes in the headgasket or worn out piston rings.

    The first thing you should do, though you've probably already done this, is check all the vacuum lines around the intake. If you've got some spare time, take off the manifold and see how crappy it looks around the injectors and towards the intake valves.

    It could also be an ignition wire problem, but if your car runs better without the ICV plugged in, I'd look around more in that area.

    Leave a comment:


  • xwill112x
    replied
    Compression Test. Then post back.

    Leave a comment:


  • craiggroves91
    replied
    Originally posted by io_RobbieRodgers
    Anything can be fixed, unless your block has a hole in it, or cracked in half.

    I can't hear what you're saying in the video too well, I'm in a loud place, could you give me a summary of the problem?
    Runs very choppy, like its misfiring. Dies at times.

    Feels like it may have a little loss of power.
    I don't really want to throw much money at it if any at all.
    I have a good running m42 I was just trying to see if this m42 is salvageable.

    Leave a comment:


  • io_RobbieRodgers
    replied
    Anything can be fixed, unless your block has a hole in it, or cracked in half.

    I can't hear what you're saying in the video too well, I'm in a loud place, could you give me a summary of the problem?

    Leave a comment:


  • craiggroves91
    started a topic Before I swap in....

    Before I swap in....

    A good running m42, can this baby be fixed?

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