Interest in Bolt on Turbo kit?

[tfrain]

trying to get my crap together for this. Anybody know if this fan will fit to replace the stock A/C fan? I'll be keeping my A/C.

https://webstore.spalusa.com/content/files/content/PDF/30100400_SPEC.pdf

Which brings up another question.....

When I install turbo:

Do I have to get rid of stock mechanical fan and move over to electric? I see photos where it didn't seem to fit that well with mechanical fan, if at all.

If I install the big volvo puller fan to come on at 80 or 82 or whatever the lower temp is, using the stock power to trigger the larger volvo relays with separate power since it draws so much, would I still need the spal pusher to come on with A/C switch?

Is installing the volvo fan, in essence, utilizing the same circuit that previously drove the A/C fan? As there was a mechanical fan from the factory, I assume that is the case. If I use both fans, would I just wire it as such that the A/C switch activates the spal pusher?

Thanks,
Tom

[tfrain]

The intercooler is not that low, really. The bottom of it is basically flush with the bottom of the bumper.
[ATTACH]83524[/ATTACH]
I'm sure with a little more creative piping you could get one just behind the kidneys, especially if you get rid of the high beams.

The main problem with relocating things in the engine bay is the requirement to use the stock AFM. There is just no where to put it on the passenger side of the engine bay, so it has to make it's way across the front of the engine.
[ATTACH]83523[/ATTACH]
If that piping wasn't there, I think there would totally be room for a long intercooler in that space (which would also look badass with the scoop). You might be able to rotate the turbo so the outlet came above the intake, but then you would run into hood clearance issues.

Or you could just do what these guys did and move the radiator back. Vidya But then you run into AFM routing issues again.

Basically, if you go standalone engine management, you have a lot more options.

What fan are you using there??

[jakeb]

trying to get my crap together for this. Anybody know if this fan will fit to replace the stock A/C fan? I'll be keeping my A/C.

https://webstore.spalusa.com/content/files/content/PDF/30100400_SPEC.pdf

Which brings up another question.....

When I install turbo:

Do I have to get rid of stock mechanical fan and move over to electric? I see photos where it didn't seem to fit that well with mechanical fan, if at all.

If I install the big volvo puller fan to come on at 80 or 82 or whatever the lower temp is, using the stock power to trigger the larger volvo relays with separate power since it draws so much, would I still need the spal pusher to come on with A/C switch?

Is installing the volvo fan, in essence, utilizing the same circuit that previously drove the A/C fan? As there was a mechanical fan from the factory, I assume that is the case. If I use both fans, would I just wire it as such that the A/C switch activates the spal pusher?

Thanks,
Tom

The mechanical fan will fit but the shroud needs to be cut which then makes the mech fan not work as well. I suggest going to a volvo fan controlled by the aux fan wiring with a lower temp fan switch. I personally would run just that puller and no thin spal between intercooler and condenser.

Using both fans is doable but you would need to beef up the wiring or add another circuit.

[tfrain]

So everything is all set on my install with the exception of the exhaust. Jake did a great job with support along the way. He is very fast with returning emails.

The car runs really nice. It idles good and starts up as normal. Its quick. The boost kicks in early and is very linear. I am able to run it on 14" tires since the power band kicks in when it is already rolling. As far as HP I am not going to spend the money to put it on a dyno. I really dont care about the numbers. It feels good and thats good enough for me. I have a 1991 M3 and there is no doubt this car is faster around town. I havent spent any hwy time with it yet so i cant comment there.

As for the install. Its fairly straight forward. The kit is complete but i would have a new set of exhaust manifold gaskets, studs, and nuts on hand. 11 of my studs came out removing the old header. Luckily everything came out easily. The old nuts still had their shape. I reused my intake manifold gaskets. They seemed fine. I reccommend going with simons guide for removing the mess under the intake while you are in there. It cleans things up quite a bit and will eliminate any vacuum leaks.

I also ordered a 2.75 45 degree bend and a silicone coupler that wasnt provided with the kit. This is used on the AFM end. It allows a good bit of adjustment as the 2.5" pipes slide nicely inside of the 2.75". You can position your AFM. I found things fit nicer going under the top radiator pipe. There is no mount provided for the AFM but the way i have it, it doesnt move much. I may make a bracket. It is also possible to retain your stock coil setup as I have. I do need to make a bracket there.

The fan shroud has to go. I tried running the mechanical fan but it wasnt providing any cooling. I decided to go the volvo fan route. It seems to move enough air to cool both my condenser and radiator. With the e36 switch it kicks on when the car is just below half way. That is a very easy plug and play using the end plug from your removed condenser fan.

The part i had the hardest time with was cutting my valance to fit the intercooler. I tried to take a lot of pictures of this. It is very solid when you bolt it back up. Get your self a cutting wheel and sawzall. It takes some time and feels weird cutting into that much metal but it should all work out. The most time consuming part of the kit for me was drilling out one of the bumper bolts. That was a nightmare. I hope no one has to deal with it. I did a little write up on how I accomplished the bumper removal if you find yourself in the same situation.

See the attached photos and let me know if you have any questions. Be happy to help.

http://share.shutterfly.com/share/re...1AcNmTZo1aN3HQ

Are you still happy running just the volvo fan? I assume your A/C was working and is still? Just looking for some updated info since this was in 2013. Thanks!

[tfrain]

The mechanical fan will fit but the shroud needs to be cut which then makes the mech fan not work as well. I suggest going to a volvo fan controlled by the aux fan wiring with a lower temp fan switch. I personally would run just that puller and no thin spal between intercooler and condenser.

Using both fans is doable but you would need to beef up the wiring or add another circuit.

Thanks Jake!

[brads2002]

Are you still happy running just the volvo fan? I assume your A/C was working and is still? Just looking for some updated info since this was in 2013. Thanks!

Hi, yes the Volvo fan has been working great for me. I have it set to run only on the low speed when it hits the trigger temp or when the ac is on. Cools the car off very quickly and isn't loud. I think you will be happy with that setup. Make sure the fan is pulling air. When I first had it wired in it was pushing air. That didn't work too good when moving down the road.

I can't remember for sure but i think the high side was blowing fuses so thats why I wired it to run on low only. Works fine for me. I am in NH so temps don't go much over 100 but we see a decent amount of 90 degree humid days. I wouldn't bother running a separate AC fan on the bumper side. You don't need it...

Good luck

[AldinE30]

I've finally got my kit into Australia. We are currently into day 3 of the installation process.
A big thanks to Jake for being there for any little bit I was stuck with. Not having done this before where you transform a complete NA engine to a forced induction one, I must say it's a hell of a experience.
Just a few little things left to do and we should be turning the key for that first time to make sure it's running good before putting it on a trailer and send away to get the exhaust system made up.

If you are thinking about getting a kit like this I highly recommend you go for it as there is nothing like it out there on offer, like Jake has been providing.

Will upload a video of the first start up after turbo :)

Thanks Jake and keep up the good work

[chodedub]

Any update on the MAF Jake?

[dpmcdonald]

Any update on the MAF Jake?

Looking forward to the MAF setup as well!

[jakeb]

Just about have my dyno up and running. Will be doing some testing with some MAF possibilities.

[brads2002]

Cool looking forward to seeing the results. Keep up the good work, Jake.

[jakeb]

I laid out an entire kit that shipped this past week. Everyone likes pictures so here it is all laid out.



Here is the current pricing on the kit and other options. The add on prices are only these prices when ordered with the kit.

Base Kit - $1900
powder coated Aluminum charge pipes - $100
Powder coated steel charge pipes - $60 (base kit comes with uncoated steel pipes)
Ceramic coat on all hot side parts - $140 (turbine, downpipe, manifold)
Innovate Wideband oxygen sensor gauge - $190
Boost gauge - $50
Coil on Plug Kit - $150
shipping in the US - $70


Here is a list of what comes with the kit.
turbo
manifold (able to keep AC)
intercooler with mounts
charge piping with couplers/clamps
42lb injectors
by pass valve
downpipe
tune

Best way to get information is to email me at jake@classicdaily.net

[dpmcdonald]

How's the dyno coming? Still looking forward to some MAF goodness! 😄

[jakeb]

How's the dyno coming? Still looking forward to some MAF goodness! 😄

Dyno is getting close. Sent the load cell out to be rewired. HOPING to have it back late this coming week along with the eddy brake controller.

The test bed car for the MAF will be running in the next week or two.

[dpmcdonald]

Dyno is getting close. Sent the load cell out to be rewired. HOPING to have it back late this coming week along with the eddy brake controller.



The test bed car for the MAF will be running in the next week or two.

Super exciting!! Going to be nice to be able to put actual numbers to your products!