Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mini-Restore project

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Mini-Restore project

    Hello fellas,

    I bought my car, 1991 318is slicktop on new years 2013. The m42 engine is in great condition but some things are worn having about 140k original miles, and many things still stock and never has been replaced.

    I am using this as my daily commuter and want this car to last (not racing or drifting) this car is my baby and want to give it the best, I want it to be efficient and in great/new condition on the inside. I have been getting advice on what to put on there and such but want to make this thread.

    I am 20 years of age and have about 2k to invest in this car right now. So my question is what should I do? This project will commence around the first days of April and last me about a good week to complete

    I would like to keep everything as stock as possible, and install new quality parts.

    -Want to buy and install the suspension kit from Blunttech $550

    -[Edit] want to get a brand new steering rack/ power steering pressure hose but keep the Original Power steering pump. this because the previous owner simply did a power steering delete because he was too lazy to fix the big leak(completely shot). Rack doctor http://shop.rackdoctor.net/1991-1993...3995-638is.htm

    -[Edit] Timing chain & tensioner with the guides/gasket set $130 (blunttech)

    -Water Pump, Thermostat (water pump super kit from Pelican) Replacing water hoses too $315 -

    -Lastly do the full complete tune up. All Gaskets, spark plugs and the wires, oil change, air/oil filters etc etc. also getting a hose kit from Blunttech for $92

    This is all I can think of, what other service should I do to that car having 140k mileage and no major parts were ever replaced.




    -Future projects, clutch kit, New brake rotors, short-shifter, new ICV (was failing but I cleaned it and ran okay so I would want to replace), Headers, Exhaust system, shocks&struts,

    -Future future as in early 2014 when All major parts are replaced besides engine, tranny I will give it a new coat of Hennarot red, Euro smilies, reupholster front seats, metal brake pads, M tech steering wheel, Fixed cracked dash, paint the valve cover and intake manifold to black. and the last thing I would do is put some new BBS rs rims on it with new rubber as well. 'is' Side skirts

    SO any comments or suggestions to what I should do to the car, where to buy the parts, how to do it, other easy jobs worth doing while under the car? Once again, I don't care about how fast it will go, or adding horsepower, I simply want to install clean new quality parts to this car.
    Last edited by salvuhdor; 01-25-2013, 06:01 PM.

    #2
    2k is either a lot or a little depending on what you want to do. If you want to do some maintenance, it'll get you there. I have nearly 2k into suspension alone, and I really have nothing too special. $375 is way too low for a brand new steering rack, I'm not sure what brand you'd be getting for that money. I've seen ZF reman on blunttech for around $700. New steering racks are a fairly large expense. Additionally, you may even like it more without power steering, the m42 is light. Blunttech's suspension kit is definitely an excellent start. The timing chain is important, make sure that the sprockets aren't pointy. Don't forget the timing chain tensioner. What you're at so far is a good start, but don't forget that a spring/damper combo is going to be expensive no matter how you go about it.
    The first car I ever rode in was an e30

    Originally posted by Cabriolet
    Wish you the best and hope you don't remember anything after 10pm.



    1992 Mauritiusblau Vert
    2011 Alpinweiss 335is coupe

    2002 540i/6 Black/Black
    2003 GSX-R 750 (RIP)

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Vivek View Post
      2k is either a lot or a little depending on what you want to do. If you want to do some maintenance, it'll get you there. I have nearly 2k into suspension alone, and I really have nothing too special. $375 is way too low for a brand new steering rack, I'm not sure what brand you'd be getting for that money. I've seen ZF reman on blunttech for around $700. New steering racks are a fairly large expense. Additionally, you may even like it more without power steering, the m42 is light. Blunttech's suspension kit is definitely an excellent start. The timing chain is important, make sure that the sprockets aren't pointy. Don't forget the timing chain tensioner. What you're at so far is a good start, but don't forget that a spring/damper combo is going to be expensive no matter how you go about it.
      Good stuff here.
      I want nothing too special just stock/Oem really. My suspension is pretty worn which is why I'm buying that kit. Huge thanks for that heads up on the timing chain tensioner. I am doing fine without power steering but it would be much more convenient if i add it the way i drive my car. Will take another look at the power steering rack and edit the post.

      Comment


        #4
        if your replacing the chain it would be beyond stupid not to replace the guides.....a oem overhall or better will easily reach 2k when you want to replace gaskets timing components plugs wires suspension im over the mark and i havent even put my turbo in yet
        Originally posted by bmwm42
        PNW vulture pm me for parts
        Strategic nw e30 command

        Comment


          #5
          What about the timing system makes you think it needs to be replaced? With 140k and proper maintenance, there shouldn't be anything wrong with it.
          Was the car neglected before you?
          Is it making noise? And if so, did you replace the tensioner yet?
          Have you taken the valve cover off to see what the sprockets look like?
          Did you take the lower oil pan off to check the upper bolts and find chunks of guides/chain/sprockets in there?
          Is the front of the engine leaking so you want to replace gaskets and timing stuff while you're in there?

          My car has 137k on it, and when I took the valve cover off, the timing system looks brand new. It was making a bit of noise when I got it, but I replaced the tensioner with a new one (takes 10 minutes and $40) and the noise went away immediately. My car was maintained religiously it's whole life though, so it's a special case. However, unless the car was under a lot of stress, neglected, or is going to be under stress (racing, etc) the timing system in our cars is relatively maintenance-free beside the tensioner and regular oil changes. It's money and mostly time you could spend elsewhere.

          Other such things:
          Mess under the intake. Get the intake manifold off and fix/replace the vacuum coolant lines.
          Replace the gearbox oil and diff oil with Redline fluids. The car loves it.
          Full brake fluid/clutch system flush
          Brake pads and rotors
          I'm not sure what the "suspension kit" is from blunt, but you should probably do the control arm and bushings at a minimum.
          Take a good hard look at the rear subframe bushings, and replace where needed. That job is a big one in and of itself.

          Comment


            #6
            I did something similar to your mini-restore project, but I did most of it on the cheap and slowly over time. My short list of suggestions follows....

            Engine...
            Do a compression test at operating temperature. Pull lower oil pan to check for bolts/timing parts. Pull the valve cover to inspect cam gears. This will give you a great feel for the engines condition and may result in only spending 2 hours and the cost of a pan gasket and chain tensioner for good measure. I got lucky and everything was minty at ~210k miles. Except for the small timing case oil leak. It's probably been like that for 100k and may be like that for 100k more. Your gears/chain/guide may be in great shape, have a look.

            Then, do the mess under the intake. It's incredibly easy to delete the throttle heaters, get rid of a bunch of old broken hoses, and inspect a few things in the area. A new intake boot and some vacuum lines will go a long way. The 3 intake/throttle gaskets are cheap and you'll be happy you did it.

            Do the accessory belts if they look tired and the fuel filter. Consider a COP conversion if you are going to buy new stock ignition parts. I haven't touched the water pump, stat, or fan clutch for the 50k I've had it. Maybe luck.

            Suspension/Steering...
            I did the whole damn front end at once. Used PS pump, used e36 rack, new control arms (and M3 bushings) and tie-rods. Front swaybar links were shot too. Boom, feels like a new car. Much much later, I did H&R springs/bilsteins. That could wait if your shocks are not blown. My "worn suspension" was purely joint and bushing slop, it had nothing to do with shocks and springs. That may or may not be your case.

            At some point, you'll likely do the rear upper shock mounts and the rear subframe bushings. Don't be scared, it can be done on the car with home-made tools. It's really worth it if you can feel the rear end squirming around in the corners. I still haven't gotten to the rear trailing arm bushings.

            Other things to inspect while you pass by...
            Passenger side motor mount failed (squished)? Transmission mounts holding together? Guibo cracked? Drive shaft center bearing rubber torn? Transmission leaks front or back? Differential leaks? Oh yeah, you may not feel it in inspection, but the wheel bearings can be noisy when they fail.

            I'm sure I could think of a few more things. These fun cars are even more pleasurable when you remove the 20+ years of slop. They don't need solid mounts, stiff suspension, and more power. Happy wrenching and motoring.
            Last edited by jibco; 01-23-2013, 10:37 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by e30Chris View Post
              What about the timing system makes you think it needs to be replaced? With 140k and proper maintenance, there shouldn't be anything wrong with it.
              Was the car neglected before you?
              Is it making noise? And if so, did you replace the tensioner yet?
              Have you taken the valve cover off to see what the sprockets look like?
              Did you take the lower oil pan off to check the upper bolts and find chunks of guides/chain/sprockets in there?
              Is the front of the engine leaking so you want to replace gaskets and timing stuff while you're in there?

              My car has 137k on it, and when I took the valve cover off, the timing system looks brand new. It was making a bit of noise when I got it, but I replaced the tensioner with a new one (takes 10 minutes and $40) and the noise went away immediately. My car was maintained religiously it's whole life though, so it's a special case. However, unless the car was under a lot of stress, neglected, or is going to be under stress (racing, etc) the timing system in our cars is relatively maintenance-free beside the tensioner and regular oil changes. It's money and mostly time you could spend elsewhere.

              Other such things:
              Mess under the intake. Get the intake manifold off and fix/replace the vacuum coolant lines.
              Replace the gearbox oil and diff oil with Redline fluids. The car loves it.
              Full brake fluid/clutch system flush
              Brake pads and rotors
              I'm not sure what the "suspension kit" is from blunt, but you should probably do the control arm and bushings at a minimum.
              Take a good hard look at the rear subframe bushings, and replace where needed. That job is a big one in and of itself.
              Yes I took one good look under and inside the engine compartment. I had a leak and the owner before me didn't like to do maintained but ran it at high RPMS all the time. Wasn't neglected to the extreme but to me I feel it was a tad bit.
              I will be sure to look at the engine again and take off the valve cover for some inspection before ordering the parts
              The suspension kit is control arms and bushings etc, also thinking about the tie rod joints/bushings if they are worn.
              Thanks for heads on the gearbox and diff. redline fluids change.
              I think my rotors can wait until the end of this year though.
              THANK YOU, I will post up pictures of the inspection soon, if it doesn't rain today!



              Originally posted by jibco View Post
              I did something similar to your mini-restore project, but I did most of it on the cheap and slowly over time. My short list of suggestions follows....

              Engine...
              Do a compression test at operating temperature. Pull lower oil pan to check for bolts/timing parts. Pull the valve cover to inspect cam gears. This will give you a great feel for the engines condition and may result in only spending 2 hours and the cost of a pan gasket and chain tensioner for good measure. I got lucky and everything was minty at ~210k miles. Except for the small timing case oil leak. It's probably been like that for 100k and may be like that for 100k more. Your gears/chain/guide may be in great shape, have a look.

              Then, do the mess under the intake. It's incredibly easy to delete the throttle heaters, get rid of a bunch of old broken hoses, and inspect a few things in the area. A new intake boot and some vacuum lines will go a long way. The 3 intake/throttle gaskets are cheap and you'll be happy you did it.

              Do the accessory belts if they look tired and the fuel filter. Consider a COP conversion if you are going to buy new stock ignition parts. I haven't touched the water pump, stat, or fan clutch for the 50k I've had it. Maybe luck.

              Suspension/Steering...
              I did the whole damn front end at once. Used PS pump, used e36 rack, new control arms (and M3 bushings) and tie-rods. Front swaybar links were shot too. Boom, feels like a new car. Much much later, I did H&R springs/bilsteins. That could wait if your shocks are not blown. My "worn suspension" was purely joint and bushing slop, it had nothing to do with shocks and springs. That may or may not be your case.

              At some point, you'll likely do the rear upper shock mounts and the rear subframe bushings. Don't be scared, it can be done on the car with home-made tools. It's really worth it if you can feel the rear end squirming around in the corners. I still haven't gotten to the rear trailing arm bushings.

              Other things to inspect while you pass by...
              Passenger side motor mount failed (squished)? Transmission mounts holding together? Guibo cracked? Drive shaft center bearing rubber torn? Transmission leaks front or back? Differential leaks? Oh yeah, you may not feel it in inspection, but the wheel bearings can be noisy when they fail.

              I'm sure I could think of a few more things. These fun cars are even more pleasurable when you remove the 20+ years of slop. They don't need solid mounts, stiff suspension, and more power. Happy wrenching and motoring.
              Yes yes yes. The motor mounts and transmissions mounts will be checked along with all gaskets, accessory belts very very soon.

              Stay tuned pictures will be up soon!

              Comment


                #8
                Hi there, I've been sitting on my BNIB sprockets and timing components for a couple years now lol. Ive been thinking about selling them since I dont see using them in the near future either. Feeler to OP, would you be interested in buying all that stuff?
                Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
                http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                Comment


                  #9
                  www.rackdoctor.com I just ordered a reman. steering rack for my 318is; it was ~$225 including the core charge and a return label to ship back my old core. The core charge is $65. Can't get much better than that if you're on a budget.
                  1987 Toyota MR2: 20v blacktop screamer
                  sigpic
                  2013 Subaru BRZ: the new hotness
                  1991 318is Alpine White: sold
                  1989 325i Alpine White: sold

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jibco View Post
                    Then, do the mess under the intake. It's incredibly easy to delete the throttle heaters, get rid of a bunch of old broken hoses, and inspect a few things in the area. A new intake boot and some vacuum lines will go a long way. The 3 intake/throttle gaskets are cheap and you'll be happy you did it.
                    Aw hell, there's 3 gaskets? Is one for the TB? I just ordered the manifold and plenum gasket; didn't realize there was a third!
                    1987 Toyota MR2: 20v blacktop screamer
                    sigpic
                    2013 Subaru BRZ: the new hotness
                    1991 318is Alpine White: sold
                    1989 325i Alpine White: sold

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Some pictures of the steering rack and some leaks (seem to be all gaskets)

                      - I believe this is the P/S pressure hose where it was leaking (drivers side)
                      Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359158179.882375.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	59.1 KB
ID:	7151257
                      Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359158267.255068.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	58.7 KB
ID:	7151258

                      I need to check the steering rack boots to make sure I need another steering rack. I might not even need one.
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Those last pictures are passenger side (right) of the fan clutch and appear to have some oil dripping. I need a new set of gaskets!

                        Now this little connector has oil running down it as well. Anyone identify this connector?
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359159057.742781.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	74.8 KB
ID:	7151262
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359159093.792920.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	78.3 KB
ID:	7151263

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359159195.240185.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	59.9 KB
ID:	7151264

                          Oil pan gasket worn.
                          No noticeable oil loss but some leaks visible.

                          Also the transmission mounts have just a slight bit of oil running down. Will it be gaskets as well?
                          Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359159352.523900.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	70.2 KB
ID:	7151265

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Will be checking inside my valve cover tomorrow and posting it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by ///M42 sport View Post
                              Hi there, I've been sitting on my BNIB sprockets and timing components for a couple years now lol. Ive been thinking about selling them since I dont see using them in the near future either. Feeler to OP, would you be interested in buying all that stuff?
                              Well I'll let know you know soon if I need them. I am checking all components under valve cover tomorrow if it doesn't rain.




                              Originally posted by MazterDizazter View Post
                              www.rackdoctor.com I just ordered a reman. steering rack for my 318is; it was ~$225 including the core charge and a return label to ship back my old core. The core charge is $65. Can't get much better than that if you're on a budget.
                              Wow I just looked at this and if it's legit its a damn good deal. Comes with just about everything! THANKS

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X