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Belt Tensioner Teeth M42 Help!

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    Belt Tensioner Teeth M42 Help!

    So was doing my belts, and it appears that on the main belt furthest in, the tensioner teeth are a bit chewed up, so it won't travel along them properly. How can I fix this? I need to get this belt off and the new one on.

    Thanks.

    It's this part, (not my car but same area)

    #2
    Loosen the bolt and move by hand etc
    Originally posted by bmwm42
    PNW vulture pm me for parts
    Strategic nw e30 command

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      #3
      Originally posted by bmwm42 View Post
      Loosen the bolt and move by hand etc
      Will try and report back.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by bmwm42 View Post
        Loosen the bolt and move by hand etc
        Well, that worked. :-) Now to find the tension measurements for each belt.

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          #5
          Don't get to technical with the tension of the belts it anit rocket science
          Originally posted by bmwm42
          PNW vulture pm me for parts
          Strategic nw e30 command

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by bmwm42 View Post
            Don't get to technical with the tension of the belts it anit rocket science
            What would you say is tight enough then? I've got a belt tensioner tool that I use for my Jeep, so I'm not really used to doing them by feel.

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              #7
              When you can twist the belt not much more than 90 degrees in the middle of the longest section it ought to be tight enough.

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                #8
                Well this turned into a shitty job. The power steering tensioner teeth are all chewed up from when the previous owner or somebody chewed them up. Realized this when I was trying to loosen the tension more to get the belt back on. Got it on, but now can't get it tensioned, because the gear just spins.

                Any tips on how to get around this?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Stick a screwdriver between the pump and block, pry towards the drivers side and tighten the 13mm nut on top of the toothed adjuster to lock it down.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
                    Stick a screwdriver between the pump and block, pry towards the drivers side and tighten the 13mm nut on top of the toothed adjuster to lock it down.
                    Thanks dude, got it there. Seems tight enough. What a PITA though. I'm going to replace that tensioner piece when I get a chance.

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                      #11
                      Just replaced the toothed tensioner piece on my build. Best $ spent so far :-)

                      Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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                        #12
                        Well worth the $10 or whatever the bracket/nut cost now. How much are the parts now anyway?

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                          #13
                          I think it was less than $10

                          Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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                            #14
                            They strip very easily. Usually from people not loosening the pivot point bolt(s) and then forcing it.

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                              #15
                              Ye and after 20 years of heat cycles it doesn't take much if you don't loosen that nut first. I actually need to replace mine actually
                              DENY IGNORANCE!
                              Schwarz 325-totaled
                              brilliantrot 318i-daily

                              Originally posted by mkcman17
                              don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

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