Here's a video...

[ck_taft325is]

I'll pick some up and go from there. Again, the car ran great all yesterday. Today? Barely made it out of the drive way.

Are both coolant sensors the same? Real OEM has them off by 1 digit but Blunttech only has 1 of 'em.


P.S.

Anyone want a rough running, semi-clean rust free 4 door 318i? Selling it on the cheap!

[kwill22]

Second coolant sensor

[roguetoaster]

Cleaned the AFM. Runs like a rich bitch. By that I mean to say, it runs, doesn't stutter or try to die, throttle on has no more hesitations and idle is rock solid. It stuttered a bit as it warmed up the first go around after the AFM cleaning. Really runs great now (again, beyond the chirp which is irritating as fuck) but I'm still hesitant to drive it around. I'm letting it cool down a tad and I'll restart it again and see how she does. She's pretty consistent with running GREAT on one session and then throwing me another problem on the next go around.

Coolant sensor was replaced on the head gasket job.

Here's hoping?

Well, if it's only when warm it is probably either the coolant sensor, or the O2 sensor.

Did you replace both coolant sensors?

Maybe check out your 3 relay pack at the top of the engine bay?

[ck_taft325is]

Cleaned the AFM. Runs like a rich bitch. By that I mean to say, it runs, doesn't stutter or try to die, throttle on has no more hesitations and idle is rock solid. It stuttered a bit as it warmed up the first go around after the AFM cleaning. Really runs great now (again, beyond the chirp which is irritating as fuck) but I'm still hesitant to drive it around. I'm letting it cool down a tad and I'll restart it again and see how she does. She's pretty consistent with running GREAT on one session and then throwing me another problem on the next go around.

Coolant sensor was replaced on the head gasket job.

Here's hoping?

[ck_taft325is]

Coils might be shot. I really just don't want to continue to throw money at this thing and pray I find the issue ;)

I'll get readings on the MAF, ICV and TPS today.


Also, it should be noted that the damn thing starts like a dream (beyond the little chirp from the pulley). It idles and runs great. However, within 10 minutes it's nearly impossible to keep running.

[kwill22]

Dip in brakes as in the pedal travels further than it should? Thatd be a brake master/fluid issue. Bad/leaking booster would typically create a hard/harder pedal. As in more effort to brake

Sounds like you've got a sensor/electrical issue. Like the DME isn't getting the correct values for fuel via air flow. Could be coils, or wires cracked, false readings from the coolant temp sensor. I don't think the o2 would cause that issue. It can run a little crappy with bad o2 but I've never heard of one causing your problems where it doesn't wanna run at all.

Check your readings from the AFM, coolant temp, ICV, TPS

[BraveUlysses]

I think I really need to replace that on my car, I get the dip too when i apply the brakes

[roguetoaster]

That's the little hose/fitting that comes off the booster, yeah?

Would that make it run like crap after it got to 1/4 warm? If so, then yes. Yes, mine is leaking... heh. I was thinking of putting some silicone on the fitting area since it's loose. Good or bad idea you reckon?

Yep, that one, but it'd cause a constant vacuum leak. I'd just replace it ($12 for the part), however, you will need new hose/clamps as brake booster hose is rarely reusable after 5+ years. Might be worth getting a new booster grommet at the same time too.

Is your check engine light working? If so I'd do a stomp test just for kicks.

[ck_taft325is]

That's the little hose/fitting that comes off the booster, yeah?

Would that make it run like crap after it got to 1/4 warm? If so, then yes. Yes, mine is leaking... heh. I was thinking of putting some silicone on the fitting area since it's loose. Good or bad idea you reckon?

[roguetoaster]

I'm really having a hard time justifying a vacuum leak on the premise that 1. most hoses are 100% new and I've literally gone over them 30 times and, 2. it's not that it just idles rough, it's nearly impossible to keep it running unless I floor the throttle. It's literally trying to give up. Meh! I hate M42's so much sometimes.

Well, that sounds like a TPS or AFM issue, however, I had an O2 sensor cause a poor idle that would dip after a stop.

It's also worth considering that your booster check valve might be leaking.

[ck_taft325is]

I'm really having a hard time justifying a vacuum leak on the premise that 1. most hoses are 100% new and I've literally gone over them 30 times and, 2. it's not that it just idles rough, it's nearly impossible to keep it running unless I floor the throttle. It's literally trying to give up. Meh! I hate M42's so much sometimes.

[roguetoaster]

It turns out the ICV wasn't the cause. I'll be replacing every last damn hose to see if maybe it's a vac. leak.

Idle range is perfect when it decides to run decent. It left me stranded on the way to the gas station ~1 mile away from home. Got it home but it didn't want to actually drive. Really weird.


I'd put the idle range at 750 +/- 50 rpm on the tach.

Well, vac leaks (or seemingly so) that develop long after work was done are right around 80% hose cracks, 18% sensor failure (the seemingly so part), and 2% fasteners backing off.*

*made up numbers, but factually near correct

[ck_taft325is]

It turns out the ICV wasn't the cause. I'll be replacing every last damn hose to see if maybe it's a vac. leak.

Idle range is perfect when it decides to run decent. It left me stranded on the way to the gas station ~1 mile away from home. Got it home but it didn't want to actually drive. Really weird.


I'd put the idle range at 750 +/- 50 rpm on the tach.

[roguetoaster]

The random rough idle as it got warm was resolved, thankfully.

I know, man! That chirp has to be pulley/belt squeak. I've driven it around the neighborhood and it seems to be slowly going away. This car sat for nearly 4 years with a blown HG. I'm still getting a little milky oil out of the innards!

It's running like a champ at this point though! Just need to get the HVAC motor/blower working and I'll be set.

Thanks for the response, Roguetoaster. Appreciate it.

Happy to. Only asked about idle range as it seems odd that an ICV swap did the trick. In any case I am glad you fixed it.

Have you ever replaced you alternator bushings? They might be the source of the squeak due to pulley misalignment.

[ck_taft325is]

The random rough idle as it got warm was resolved, thankfully.

I know, man! That chirp has to be pulley/belt squeak. I've driven it around the neighborhood and it seems to be slowly going away. This car sat for nearly 4 years with a blown HG. I'm still getting a little milky oil out of the innards!

It's running like a champ at this point though! Just need to get the HVAC motor/blower working and I'll be set.

Thanks for the response, Roguetoaster. Appreciate it.