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I'm in a conundrum... cooling... again...

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    #1

    I'm in a conundrum... cooling... again...

    I swear... the only issue with this car since the beginning has been cooling issues. So I installed a new all aluminum radiator and mounted the m20 exp tank and installed a electric fan as my clutch fan was going. After the install I still have the same issue of temp rising with normal driving. Letting off gas while still in gear cools it down. What I find confusing is the fact that if I have it parked outside my house and its running temp stays in place. If im at a red light or sitting in traffic it climbs up. The furthest it goes up is a little more than halfway between the half tick and the 3/4 tick.

    I only flushed the old radiator and installed the new one and filled via m20 reservoir since they bleed themselves... anyome got any ideas?
    Tags: None
    #2
    M20's do not bleed themselves.
    Originally posted by codyep3
    I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
    2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
    1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
    1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
    2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
    2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
    2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
    2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
    2010 F650gs twin
    2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

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      #3
      Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
      M20's do not bleed themselves.
      I was wrong... Ha

      Well... is there anyway to bleed an m42 with an aftermarket radiator and a m20 expansion tank?

      Comment

        #4
        I was fighting a cooling issue for over a year. It would heat up randomly and I couldn't figure it out. I was so fed up with it. It turns out my car was never overheating, the ground nut on the back of temp gauge was loose by one full rotation. That was it and now my temp gauge is accurate. If you haven't checked that yet, then do it.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by Josh1254 View Post
          I was fighting a cooling issue for over a year. It would heat up randomly and I couldn't figure it out. I was so fed up with it. It turns out my car was never overheating, the ground nut on the back of temp gauge was loose by one full rotation. That was it and now my temp gauge is accurate. If you haven't checked that yet, then do it.
          Mine isn't random, it's pretty consistent in its symptoms. Last time I had this cooling issue it was cause the motor mount area on the subframe snapped and gave me a bad ground.

          Since then I've replaced that ground cable and checked the grounding nut on the back of the gauge. Upper rad hose is hot and lower is pretty warm. Water pump doesn't seem bad either... Thermostat was replaced not too long ago too when I was having a bad ground from the bad snapped subframe... Would drilling a small hole in the tstat help bleeding? I am essentially trying to bleed without a bleeder right now.

          Comment

            #6
            I don't think it will make much difference drilling a hole. As long as that mini grove in the thermostat housing is clear and clean it'll bleed fine. Have you used an infared temp gun to see what your cooling system temperature is when the gauge says its overheating?

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Josh1254 View Post
              I don't think it will make much difference drilling a hole. As long as that mini grove in the thermostat housing is clear and clean it'll bleed fine. Have you used an infared temp gun to see what your cooling system temperature is when the gauge says its overheating?
              Not yet. But just right now I had one of my buddies at work who is alot more inclined to this stuff tell me my water pump is bad.

              He says I should feel coolant "flowing" through the upper hose.

              My question now is shouldn't my pump be pumping when my motor is running? As if I recall correctly the pulley and the impeller spin together? I replaced the old pump with a plastic impeller with a meyle with a metal impeller.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Josh1254 View Post
                I don't think it will make much difference drilling a hole. As long as that mini grove in the thermostat housing is clear and clean it'll bleed fine. Have you used an infared temp gun to see what your cooling system temperature is when the gauge says its overheating?
                So this past weekend I replaced my pump with a graf one. The little passageway that helps bleeding was blocked by the tstat oring. I cut the molded part out so it's clear now. SAME PROBLEM! Everything in my cooling system is NEW. I get good heat from my heater, upper hose is hot lower is slightly warm... do I have a big ass bubble?? When I bled I was parked on my driveway which is higher than any stands I can get under the front of my car.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Is there any indication of a leak anywhere in your engine bay? Also is coolant disappearing or is it always at the same cold mark? If there's no leaks then it's more than likely there's just a big air bubble somewhere, I've heard of people having to massage the upper radiator hose before running the engine to ensure there's no air trapped in there.

                  You could try testing your radiator for exhaust emissions and that would be a sign of a head gasket leak, but that's more unlikely.
                  The fun never ends :-?

                  89 318iS
                  R.I.P 89 325i coupe
                  89 335iC

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by RCtheRed View Post
                    Is there any indication of a leak anywhere in your engine bay? Also is coolant disappearing or is it always at the same cold mark? If there's no leaks then it's more than likely there's just a big air bubble somewhere, I've heard of people having to massage the upper radiator hose before running the engine to ensure there's no air trapped in there.

                    You could try testing your radiator for exhaust emissions and that would be a sign of a head gasket leak, but that's more unlikely.
                    No coolant loss, damn I'm gonna try bleeding on my steep driveway tomorrow.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Any updates or solutions?
                      The fun never ends :-?

                      89 318iS
                      R.I.P 89 325i coupe
                      89 335iC

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Jack up the front drivers side only. Get it as high as you can without lifting the right front tire off the ground. Then leave the cap off the expansion tank and run the engine until it is at full operating temp, adding coolant as needed. Revving the engine up a few thousand rpm every once in a while will help coolant flow as well. Once up to operating temp, put the cap on and you should be good to go.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
                          Jack up the front drivers side only. Get it as high as you can without lifting the right front tire off the ground. Then leave the cap off the expansion tank and run the engine until it is at full operating temp, adding coolant as needed. Revving the engine up a few thousand rpm every once in a while will help coolant flow as well. Once up to operating temp, put the cap on and you should be good to go.
                          So I parked it on my driveway its about a 30 degree upslope, jacked up driver side and ran the car for about 30-40 min, reving and massaging lower and upper hoses, with heat at full blast, barely any bubbles came out...

                          Still same issue...

                          I do have a question about tstat orientation. Should the arrow be facing up making a 90 degree with the flat top of the valve cover or straight up 90 degree to the ground? I remember reading somewhere that it shouldn't matter as long as it is relatively "up"

                          Comment

                            #14
                            I've never heard of having to orient a thermostat. Only reason you might need to is if there is a hole in it. Hole should be up.

                            You expansion tank is mounted above everything else, correct? If it isn't the highest point in the system you will never get all the air out.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
                              I've never heard of having to orient a thermostat. Only reason you might need to is if there is a hole in it. Hole should be up.

                              You expansion tank is mounted above everything else, correct? If it isn't the highest point in the system you will never get all the air out.
                              Its mounted like that. Since I'm running the Ireland rad.

                              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...postcount=1284

                              Link/pic courtesy of irish44j

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