M42 won't start

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  • James Crivellone
    replied
    Originally posted by kencopperwheat
    What would that indicate if it starts?
    Increased Oil consumption that is fouling the plugs, and/or a fuel problem

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Originally posted by James Crivellone
    try holding the throttle to the floor, and try starting it..
    What would that indicate if it starts?

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  • restoration
    replied
    Do you have a bad connection on solenoid, starter, battery, coil pack, It obviously seems elctrical so maybe bad relay or fuse, I got a m42 to and I am freckin stumped

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    the ICV can prevent starting - since it needs to open up a few % to let air in the motor while cranking. it might start up if it's not opening, but it will die shortly after.
    The ICV was bought new from the dealer and has maybe 20k on it.

    The engine doesnt even sound like it is starting and dying.

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  • James Crivellone
    replied
    try holding the throttle to the floor, and try starting it..

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe318is
    So what do you know so far? Im having a hard time trying to understand why a car that ran fine before being parked will not start.
    You and me both man! haha

    Getting fuel, but no spark.

    It cranks over fine, but doesn't fire up.
    All of the electronics seem to function fine.

    Both crank and cam sensors are within ohm range. Swapped an ECU, didn't help.
    Pedal code = no faults

    I'm going to swap in some other plugs, but I don't see how they could all fail at the same time.

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Jordan
    OHM out the CPS.

    ICV isn't going to prevent a start, nor will the TPS.
    the ICV can prevent starting - since it needs to open up a few % to let air in the motor while cranking. it might start up if it's not opening, but it will die shortly after.

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  • Joe318is
    replied
    So what do you know so far? Im having a hard time trying to understand why a car that ran fine before being parked will not start.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe318is
    12v system, 13.8 is good.

    Try getting it to go with starter fluid so then we know if its a fuel delivery issue.
    Plugs were damp when I removed them last night so fuel is getting to the cylinders.

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  • Joe318is
    replied
    12v system, 13.8 is good.

    Try getting it to go with starter fluid so then we know if its a fuel delivery issue.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe318is
    Low voltage in non running is due to a bad battery which can cause a car to not run or run poorly, even if it is able to start. Test at the alternator, starter, battery, and positive distribution block for voltage.
    There should be constant voltage at all components listed above, correct? What value am I looking for? 13.8?

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  • Joe318is
    replied
    Low voltage in non running is due to a bad battery which can cause a car to not run or run poorly, even if it is able to start. Test at the alternator, starter, battery, and positive distribution block for voltage.

    Im trying to figure out why a car that ran fine and then was parked would not start after sitting for a while.

    You can also try the starter fluid test and see if it tries to start [ie spray it in the intake] If it does then you have spark and no fuel.

    EDIT: This is a godawful way of trying to fix these things but if you go methodically through the system you may find your problem. Its the 'Shotgun' approach to repair.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe318is
    Whats the voltage in the system? Both cranking and not. Test it somewhere other than the battery.
    Any idea on where to test it?

    What could low voltage indicate?

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  • Joe318is
    replied
    Whats the voltage in the system? Both cranking and not. Test it somewhere other than the battery.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Update:

    Swapped with two working ECUs - nothing

    I tested BOTH the cam and crank position sensors and they're both WELL within normal ohm readings.

    Main white relay is also functioning.

    Cylinders ARE getting fuel.

    Motronic pedal fault code = no faults

    Any other ideas?

    Has any one ever had all four spark plugs fail at the same time?
    Last edited by KenC; 10-11-2007, 06:13 AM.

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