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    #16
    Did you ever find the issue, Ken? This just started happening to me last night. I haven't touched anything to do with the cooling system within a few months, and it was working fine up until now.

    Temp gauge stays mostly in the middle, fluctuating a little. It has always done this though.
    Byron
    Leichtbau

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      #17
      I never had it bled right. Make sure the heatis on high, but the fan is off when you bleed it.
      Originally posted by Gruelius
      and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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        #18
        Originally posted by kencopperwheat View Post
        I never had it bled right. Make sure the heatis on high, but the fan is off when you bleed it.
        You mean the cabin fan? Howcome you want it off? I've never of that.

        Sold.......again.

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          #19
          Yeah, my problem was that I had a small hole popped in my radiator and it lost a bit of fluid. Welded the hole up and re-bled and the heat's great again.
          Byron
          Leichtbau

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            #20
            Originally posted by 91 318is View Post
            You mean the cabin fan? Howcome you want it off? I've never of that.
            Yes, keep the cabin fan off so you're not cooling down the coolant with the fan. You need it to surspass the temp at which the thermostat will open. In cold weather with the windows down, the heatercore will dissipate enough heat to keep the coolant below that level.
            Originally posted by Gruelius
            and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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              #21
              Ken if you ever need a hand with that in the future give me a shout! I've always had very good luck with bleeding them.

              For whatever it's worth, I think some people don't take the time to get as much coolant in as possible BEFORE starting the car. Probably takes a good 5 minutes, but if you are patient you can get almost all of the coolant in. Then it's just a matter of running it until the air is gone. Doing it that way I have always had them bleed properly on the first attempt.
              sigpic

              1991 318i Sedan Project

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                #22
                Originally posted by s_ribs View Post
                Ken if you ever need a hand with that in the future give me a shout! I've always had very good luck with bleeding them.

                For whatever it's worth, I think some people don't take the time to get as much coolant in as possible BEFORE starting the car. Probably takes a good 5 minutes, but if you are patient you can get almost all of the coolant in. Then it's just a matter of running it until the air is gone. Doing it that way I have always had them bleed properly on the first attempt.

                Word. Thanks, Seth. I'll hit you up if I ever need to bleed it again soon.
                Originally posted by Gruelius
                and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by s_ribs View Post
                  For whatever it's worth, I think some people don't take the time to get as much coolant in as possible BEFORE starting the car.
                  The best way of doing this is to remove the upper hose from the radiator and backfill the motor. This removes 99% of the air and goes much quicker.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by txleadfoot View Post
                    does it matter the orientation (top/bottom) of the heater hoses going into the firewall from the engine bay?

                    I'm having a similar issue: only heat at idle. Once I take off, no heat. All this on a fresh M42 rebuild. I also noticed the jumpy temp gauge levels out at halfway once I turn the temp control to heat. weird.

                    I am havine the opposite probplem right now, no heat at idle only when moving. The car also gets hot when sitting.
                    Last edited by Grade_Ray_Racing; 12-11-2009, 11:37 AM.
                    sigpic

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