Car vibrates under low gear acceleration

[learningcurve86]

Hey guys, I'm getting some pretty nasty vibrations between 2-3k rmps in 1st, 2nd and 3rd while under any kind of acceleration that isn't slower than a turtle. If I let the gear go beyond 3k it stops almost completely and immediately. I've replaced my Guibo, my Driveshaft Center Bearing, and the Driveshaft Guide Bushing... and I still have the vibration. Does anyone know what would cause this vibration? The centerbearing is as pre-loaded as it can possibly be (it's slid all the way forward so that the bolts that hold it up are at the back of their respective notches) I really don't know what else to do. I don't think it's a balance issue because its at low-speed acceleration.

Any ideas?


what exactly does the driveshaft centering sleeve do? the exact same thing as the driveshaft guide bushing?

[Spec E30]

How is it at highway speeds?

When you replaced your guibo and CSB, how did the U-joints feel? If they were binding or felt sloppy, you will need to replace the driveshaft.

I had a similar issue- when pulling out from a stop the car would thump from the rear end. At highway speeds (~70mph) the car would vibrate badly and it sounded like I was in a small aircraft. I replaced the driveshaft with a remanufactured unit (along with new csb and guibo) and it solved my problems. The u-joints on the shaft I pulled out of the car would bind when I tried to move them through their range of motion.

[learningcurve86]

the car feels great at highway speed. No notable vibration, even over 110. The u-joints are off a small amount, but I was told they were fine. I guess that if I can't figure it out by tonight I'll pull the driveshaft and have it rebuilt tomorrow.

The guibo and center bearing have less than 100 miles on them and the centering bushing has less than a city block... do you think they'll be okay to use if the get the driveshaft rebuilt? upon visual inspection they look just fine.

[learningcurve86]

Has anyone ever dealt wth Bavarian Auto Recycling? (they're on ebay and located out of cali.) do they really stand behind their warranties?

i'd rather not buy a driveshaft for probably damn near 250 (counting shipping) but i already bought one that doesn't seem to be any good, so i'd rather not continue to buy stuff that doesn't fix the issue. *large exasperated sigh*

[ldsbeaker]

It would be cheaper (in the long run) and a sure shot to get yours rebuilt. There are quite a few trustworthy vendors, you could probably look them up in the Roundel or Bimmer magazines.

[learningcurve86]

I called a local shop, they don't rebuild them there, but they do have a vendor that they use. I'm going to see if there is any kind of guarantee, i'm also going to see if the BAV ones come with a warranty.

at this point i just want the car to run. I've had my m30 in for a month and i've only done 2000 miles. i have a big paycheck coming next friday... and at this point i'm willing to blow the whole thing on it.

[rede30]

figure it out? i am seeing the same thing. I just started driving the car after pulling the whole drive train. I have about 100 miles on it. When i pulled everything i checked the flex disk and csb and they looked great. I drove the car around for about 80 miles and felt nothing, than after a 18 mile freeway journey i felt your same problems after i made a stop at a light. Freeway speeds i feel nothing. 2-3 in 2nd gear is the worst, acceleration plays no part in it. It is only in lower gears. I am going to get under the car in the next few days but i was just going to check here first.

edit: i had loose flex disk bolts. oooooops.

[vr2jetta]

I have the same problem, Has anybody figured it out? I will check my flex disc bolts tomorrow.

[learningcurve86]

I had a few issues due to the drive shaft bolts not getting torqued to spec.

aside from human error installing the drive shaft, the guibo (that was brand new) was failing.


I ended up using the old guibo that was on the car before my motor swap and keeping the center bearing that i had bought when i bought the new (and garbage) guibo

for me it came down to being able to visually tell that the guibo had failed. I'm still pissed at the quality of that.

[Inline Sex]

I had a few issues due to the drive shaft bolts not getting torqued to spec.

aside from human error installing the drive shaft, the guibo (that was brand new) was failing.


I ended up using the old guibo that was on the car before my motor swap and keeping the center bearing that i had bought when i bought the new (and garbage) guibo

for me it came down to being able to visually tell that the guibo had failed. I'm still pissed at the quality of that.

Having similar issues, what does a brand new guibo look like if it fails? cracks or was it actually torn up?

[StereoInstaller1]

Has anyone ever dealt wth Bavarian Auto Recycling?

Known to be dirtbags: do some searches

[learningcurve86]

Having similar issues, what does a brand new guibo look like if it fails? cracks or was it actually torn up?

The holes that are normally in it between the bolt holes had elongated, and there were metal fibers and THREADS coming out of them. I just shook my head and threw the old one back on. Worked like a champ. -It was VERY obvious that it didn't look like it was supposed to though.

[learningcurve86]

Known to be dirtbags: do some searches

Yeah, I've heard a few stories about them sending out bad ECUs and stuff like that :(

[vr2jetta]

Mine ended up being the guibo also. Brand new one too, with new nuts but I didnt torque to spec, just tightened up good.

[KenC]

It's your driveshaft. Either the center joint or the rear one is binding. They should both be COMPLETELY smooth when you move them around.

Get a rebuilt one from Portland Driveline www.driveshafts.com

Mine was doing the same thing that you describe. I thought I'd try and replace the CSB and the giubo first. I replaced both and this is what was under my car less than a month later: