Clutch problem

[e34john]

When I am driving sometimes it slips for a split second like I jabbed the clutch pedal and immediately release. I guess the clutch is going but it does this only every so often. Most cars I drove with a worn clutch usually just slips and regrabs slowly while I play with the pedal and not reengage so quickly.

Just a clutch on it's way out?

[jlevie]

That is just a clutch that is about to completely fail.

[e34john]

Thanks Jim.. Stuff on this car keeps breaking but I am learning to fix and replace everything, first time I actually worked on a car other than oil changes.

I think the Sachs kit has the throwout bearing. According to a few searches I just need the transmission seals. Will probably do the oil pan gasket and shifter bushings. Anything else? I wanted to add a Z3 shifter but that will wait till next time.

[idanity]

bavauto kit, seems the best value and more than anyone else has to offer as far as "kits" go.


Part # : CK 325I525 $ 239.95
kit contains:
an alignment tool,
clutch disc,
pressure plate,
throw-out bearing,
rear engine seal,
pilot bearing,
all transmission seals, (3 of em)
exhaust gaskets, and a
pivot pin

a great how-to is here (granted its on a e36, but you will know what your in for, much easier w/this walkthrough)


if your planning on the short shifter, i highly recomend to remove the vibration dampner while your drive train is down, this will make your new shifter install a lot easier, and you won't have to bend the selector rod to clear it.

[e34john]

Thanks, I will probably get that kit. I have that pelican book. A lot more than I want to do but I will just take my time and hope everything gets put together right.

THe vibration dampener is the harmonic balancer?

[lateracer]

Just got done with this job. Biggest PITA is getting the trans out of/back in the car. The pelican book helps a good bit. I'm sure it's technically possible to do this job solo, but having a helper is pretty much mandatory IMHO, especially for getting the trans unbolted. If you don't already have a set, pick up about 3 feet of wobble extensions from harbor freight or wherever. An impact wrench is a massive time saver (i.e. worth buying for this project) as well.

I used the sachs kit too. Pilot and TO bearings included. Did my input shaft and selector rod seals as well. Not difficult and no special tools required. I didn't do my rear output seal because I don't have the thin walled socket necessary (and it can be done with the trans in the car at a later time).

Something to consider since you'll have to move it anyway is changing/upgrading your sway bar. You will probably need to unbolt the end links to turn it out of the way anyway, which puts you halfway through the removal job. With everything out of the car, threading the old one out and a new one through the undercarriage is easy.

Sounds like you've got most of what you want to do figured out. Changing the shifter later shouldn't be too much of a hassle, it's just the bushings that are difficult with the trans in. Good luck.

[Wh33lhop]

I've attempted a trans/clutch job solo in a parking lot.

I didn't get the trans all the way out (most of the way), I had to drop the subframe to get at the top two trans bolts and I will have to drop it again to fully remove the trans as the firewall blocks the trans for me otherwise (but my M50 is sitting pretty high in the bay since I shimmed the motor mounts). In addition, I think I'm going to need 2 prying points in order to get the trans fully off (even pressure as opposed to just 1 side).

You do not have to remove the sway bar to get at the trans:


Moreover, I found the front swaybar rather easy to replace (just unhook one of the control arms back at the bushing), the trans gets in the way a bit but it doesn't take THAT long. I did it, again, in a rather dimly lit parking lot, in maybe 2 hours with hand tools the first time.

However, while you have the tranny out, you may want to replace your shifter bushings.