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    #46
    Originally posted by u3b3rg33k View Post
    Since I love jumping on the torsen bandwagon I figured I'd chime in late here.

    I swapped out an OE LSD for a Z3 torsen, and I find that the torsen does a better job. Granted the former had 170k on it, but I'd rather change oil than rebuilding a diff.

    I do use the parking brake trick in the winter at times. Try that with an LSD. It does nothing.
    I love the torsen in my E30 :)
    OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

    Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



    Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

    Comment


      #47
      Wanganstyle - PM sent buddy.
      Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



      OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

      Comment


        #48
        Ok, here is another question for those with experience.

        How do you determine how much lock is going to be enough or how much is too much?

        Maybe I need to list some car stats? Car is fairly light (2500lbs, tires currently are 225/50 15 v710 30 treadwear, coilover suspension, camber plates no rear bar, and m30b35 swap). Next season m30 is going to be replaced with a 4.0 or 4.4l v8 so another 80 or so hptq over b35 and tires will also be wider most likely 275/35/15 size. Rear end is 3.64 and I am considering going to 3.46 or even 3.25. Issue is currently spinning the inside rear under acceleration out of the corners, and these aren't hairpins some are fairly good size / wide turns. If the surface is dusty or dirty there is even more problems putting it down when the car is already pointing straight.

        Also, would doing a 3 clutch vs 4 clutch result in one side / wheel to be able to put more power down vs the other? My concern is "uneven wear or load balance" if that is the case when you go with odd number of clutches?

        Now that I have a 2 month break before next autocross rounds, I have the time to get this done but need to understand this more so I can order the right parts.

        Thanks!
        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by Jean View Post
          Ok, here is another question for those with experience.

          How do you determine how much lock is going to be enough or how much is too much?

          Maybe I need to list some car stats? Car is fairly light (2500lbs, tires currently are 225/50 15 v710 30 treadwear, coilover suspension, camber plates no rear bar, and m30b35 swap). Next season m30 is going to be replaced with a 4.0 or 4.4l v8 so another 80 or so hptq over b35 and tires will also be wider most likely 275/35/15 size. Rear end is 3.64 and I am considering going to 3.46 or even 3.25. Issue is currently spinning the inside rear under acceleration out of the corners, and these aren't hairpins some are fairly good size / wide turns. If the surface is dusty or dirty there is even more problems putting it down when the car is already pointing straight.

          Also, would doing a 3 clutch vs 4 clutch result in one side / wheel to be able to put more power down vs the other? My concern is "uneven wear or load balance" if that is the case when you go with odd number of clutches?

          Now that I have a 2 month break before next autocross rounds, I have the time to get this done but need to understand this more so I can order the right parts.

          Thanks!


          Technically speaking, if the diff center is locked up, both wheels should be locked up as the output shafts are splined to the center spider gears.
          if you have a destroyed or dying clutch, then perhaps it could have un-even torque to the rear wheels - most extreme would become an open diff- I have had this happen to my own diff before.

          as far as uneven wear goes the design of the oem 2 clutch unit wears one clutch disc more than the other. 3 disc is popular because of the cost; also that design constraints of the unit make 3 clutch suit street cars better. Cheaper+larger audience = good for business!!

          if a Viscous or Garbage addition (phantom grip) diff was setup correctly, it could provide enough lock for any application. Problem is this rarely happens; thus the aftermarket LSD industry.

          BMW uses a very OEM style diff setup; the design of the diff tends to wear the clutch plates unevenly and with a bit of glazing as well, as the side springs add tension BUT un-even distribution of forces - you will see the wear when you take yours apart, it looks similar in every stock diff- un-even wear is shown on dog plates, clutches, springs. Using a heavy duty spring puts more tension on the plates so they lock harder and SAVES MONEY WITH LESS PLATES - But handles better.


          Open diff handles the best if the setup allows it. usually with FR cars this is not the case- BUT some FR's handle better with open diffs.


          ZF188mm is not an aftermarket KAAZ/cusco/os-giken designed for lap time, drifting. The "custom center ramp" business was designed around playing games with OEM configuation commuter LSD because of the inherent downsides to adding more lock to this style of center section.

          if stressed to extreme (motorsports use with slicks), the splines of the clutch disc can go from 27 splines to = 0. I have destroyed one prior drifting, and the disc was fused to the center section...... was FUN times smoking tires!!!



          You seem to be having similar problems as bolt on footwork Nissan 350z's. Nissan OEM's a viscous LSD that overheats and becomes = open diff with sticky tires. Z can run 19's all day long and huge slicks with hardcore suspension - kills the viscous LSD. Viscous diff is great for parking, malls and picking up girls, not for drifting or lap time.

          if you want a feel like a KAAZ or Cusco (japanese competition diff) you would want a 4 clutch unit with 60% locking or variable center section with at least that kind of locking- in comparison, a Kaaz or Cusco has much more aggressive locking avail in stock configuration and handles better than a OEM bmw diff modified with 4 clutches because they dont rely on side spring like the bmw for pre-load. Side spring just keeps things tight, many very high quality friction discs (often carbon) and higher stress design






          OS giken gets even fancier and has a sprung center cartridge; this is a 911 unit IIRC



          Porsche uses various ZF LSD units for many cars OEM (as ZF was told by Dr. Porsche to "CREATE LSD")
          some of them do not use bellvue washers, have clutch on clutch lesbian action in the stack, have no spring (or minimal tension), etc etc.

          you can really open this up to massive configuration if you want to open up the history book. DNA, DNA, DNA....... I may be doing one in very un-conventional fashion for my own car Japanese aftermarket style pretty soon :)
          Last edited by Wanganstyle; 05-09-2011, 04:50 AM.
          OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

          Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



          Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

          Comment


            #50
            Thanks man!

            Spoke with a local diff place today recommended to me by a local scca chapter. I took a neutral approach with my questions to not show any bias either way, it seems that his thoughts are to use even number of clutches in the build vs odd.

            How valid is this, I would like more discussion on this from those with experience.
            Last edited by Jean; 05-09-2011, 11:03 PM.
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              #51
              This thread is so awesome. STICKY IT NOW.

              Comment


                #52
                Originally posted by Jean View Post
                Thanks man!

                Spoke with a local diff place today recommended to me by a local scca chapter. I took a neutral approach with my questions to not show any bias either way, it seems that his thoughts are to use even number of clutches in the build vs odd.

                How valid is this, I would like more discussion on this from those with experience.


                Oem compromise design of the clutch diff wears one side of internals more than the other. Doubling clutches on one side only might shock load one spider side more than the other- heat stress is an issue as well, as severe heat will cook the organic material- I have seen glazed discs and tons of uneven wear is common.

                At least the diff shop guy is telling you from experience.
                OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                Comment


                  #54
                  On that note:



                  (T-2 type)

                  (T-1 type)

                  Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe

                  Originally posted by Top Gear
                  Just imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.

                  Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


                  Comment


                    #55
                    Thanks!
                    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                    Comment


                      #56
                      Originally posted by Ian Bowers View Post
                      Drifting is so awesome. STICKY IT NOW.
                      I love drifting too!!!
                      OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                      Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                      Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                      Comment


                        #57
                        Has anyone actually tried the Viscous Diffs out of an IX and wore one out? I don't think it's possible to do based on the design.

                        If you want a lot more lockup, why not just run a welded diff?

                        Comment


                          #58
                          So much good info in here.
                          Was just going to start my search for a lsd.

                          Comment


                            #59
                            I don't have any use or need to rebuild or do anything with my LSD



                            But this thread is fucking awesome. I got so into it haha.
                            Originally posted by TSI
                            ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                            OEM+

                            Comment


                              #60
                              Originally posted by JakeP View Post
                              Has anyone actually tried the Viscous Diffs out of an IX and wore one out? I don't think it's possible to do based on the design.

                              If you want a lot more lockup, why not just run a welded diff?
                              viscous diffs wear out over time. You want more lock, not full lock. there's such a thing as too much lock. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ghlight=welded

                              Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

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