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Would you recommend me doing my own clutch?

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    #16
    The top bolts are a pain. Disconnecting the motor mounts and using an engine brace to lift the front of the motor, while allowing the transmission to sag down gives you more room to work. Getting at the top bolts really wants a helper up to to guide the socket onto the bolts.

    +1 on the suggestion to start soaking the header and exhaust nuts with PBlaster or Kroil several days in advance. And have new nuts and exhaust gaskets on hand. I'd inspect the transmission and drive shaft before tearing into the clutch job. New seals are easy to install with the transmission out and it is easy to rebuild the shifter. In a like manner a new guibo, or even replacing the drive shaft and center bearing can be a part of the job.

    Unless I'm in a hurry or changing a clutch at the track I'll just pull the engine and transmission to change a clutch. Once everything under the car is off to gain access to the drive shaft and transmission you are 80% of the way to being able to pull the engine. If the car has the original clutch it is a safe bet to say that the engine needs a re-seal and cleaning.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #17
      jim is spot on as usual. unless your in a big rush, pull the motor/trans out and R&R both. rear main seal is an obvious "while you're in there" item.
      '12 F30 328i Sport Line
      '91 SpecE30 #523
      '00 Ford F-350 Dually Tow Vehicle

      BMWCCA #360858 NASA #
      128290

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        #18
        Just did this job. Didn't change the clutch, but swapped trannies. It's a super pain in the ass. Not technically advanced, but be prepared to spend lots of time on things that end up being 1 minute solutions. Pretty straight forward, you can do it if you put your mind to it.

        One piece of advice from my experience that I haven't seen, but the starter bolts were the easiest part of the process, even though I was expecting the opposite from what people have told me. No manifold BS, just snaked my hand around to seat the nut and finger tighten it. Once it's finger tight, I stuck on a crow foot flare nut socket, had my friend tighten the bolt, and the socket will turn and eventually bind on the starter and stop. Then just finish tightening the bolt and pop the socket off. The starter bolts literally took 10 minutes to do. Sure didn't take 10 minutes to figure that out though lol. And carpel tunnel is unavoidable with this method.

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