The top bolts are a pain. Disconnecting the motor mounts and using an engine brace to lift the front of the motor, while allowing the transmission to sag down gives you more room to work. Getting at the top bolts really wants a helper up to to guide the socket onto the bolts.
+1 on the suggestion to start soaking the header and exhaust nuts with PBlaster or Kroil several days in advance. And have new nuts and exhaust gaskets on hand. I'd inspect the transmission and drive shaft before tearing into the clutch job. New seals are easy to install with the transmission out and it is easy to rebuild the shifter. In a like manner a new guibo, or even replacing the drive shaft and center bearing can be a part of the job.
Unless I'm in a hurry or changing a clutch at the track I'll just pull the engine and transmission to change a clutch. Once everything under the car is off to gain access to the drive shaft and transmission you are 80% of the way to being able to pull the engine. If the car has the original clutch it is a safe bet to say that the engine needs a re-seal and cleaning.
+1 on the suggestion to start soaking the header and exhaust nuts with PBlaster or Kroil several days in advance. And have new nuts and exhaust gaskets on hand. I'd inspect the transmission and drive shaft before tearing into the clutch job. New seals are easy to install with the transmission out and it is easy to rebuild the shifter. In a like manner a new guibo, or even replacing the drive shaft and center bearing can be a part of the job.
Unless I'm in a hurry or changing a clutch at the track I'll just pull the engine and transmission to change a clutch. Once everything under the car is off to gain access to the drive shaft and transmission you are 80% of the way to being able to pull the engine. If the car has the original clutch it is a safe bet to say that the engine needs a re-seal and cleaning.
Comment