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adjusting clutch pedal hight

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    adjusting clutch pedal hight

    Hi All
    so i replaced my clutch master cylinder today,
    and the pedal sits somewhat high, unlike in my other car - i could not locate any adjusting mechanism for the clutch pedal.
    am i missing something here?

    #2
    The pivot bolt where the cylinder attaches to the pedal is an eccentric and is used to adjust the rest height of the pedal.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      Out of curiosity, what else controls the height? I think mine might be a little low even with the eccentric bolt at it's highest setting. Not sure if my aftermarket clutch master has the adjustable nut. Didn't check before I put it in and the old one I replaced didn't.

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        #4
        I've never seen a clutch master cylinder with an adjustable rod. If the pedal is low with the eccentric at the max high point I'd suspect that the MC isn't the right one.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          Huh so looks like my clutch pedal height is gonna be something I gotta address. Car drives fine after the tranny swap, but clutch isn't disengaging fully. Car rolls forward in 1st with clutch all the way pressed, and shifting is rough. Kinda makes sense since the clutch pedal is about an inch too low, has an inch of dead play at the top and grabs at the floor. I'm not getting nearly enough travel.

          Clutch master/slave are new, so what gives? I don't know what else could possibly control the height of the pedal.
          Last edited by 99em1; 11-17-2010, 03:32 PM.

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            #6
            With new clutch hydraulics, properly bled, a clutch that won't release will be a bad pivot pin or a problem with the clutch. In either case the transmission is going to have to be removed.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              The pivot pin is fine and so is the clutch. My disengaging issue I'm almost positive is pedal related. It sits an inch below the brake pedal, and has some dead play at the top. I can tell just by looking at it that it's not going to be able to disengage the clutch like a proper setup because it physically cannot travel as much as a normal pedal. I'm sure bleeding is still an issue, but the pedal height is my biggest concern at the moment. The pedal assembly didn't have anything wrong with it I could see, or anyone else that's seen it, and the clutch MC is new. Have no idea why it would sit lower than normal. Unless I'm missing something completely here and haven't realized it yet.

              Let's say I got it 100% bled, and that took care of the play at the top. The pedal would still be lower than spec even if I got its travel completely consistent pressure wise.

              edit: swung by a good local bmw shop to get some opinions, and the only idea the tech had was that I got the wrong MC or it's an adjustable one. I can't get any leverage with the seat and stuff in there to pry the boot down to check. Don't even know if an adjustable one exists, save for its mention in the Bentley. He noted the pressure was good, just lacking in travel + the dead spot at the top of the pedal. I know it needs a more thorough bleeding, but that can't be it.
              Last edited by 99em1; 11-17-2010, 04:53 PM.

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                #8
                Bleeding won't affect the rest position of the pedal. That is strictly a function of the eccentric and master cylinder. A master with an adjustable rod might exist, but I've never seen one. If adjustment of the eccentric won't bring the rest position of the pedal up, I'd say that you have the wrong master cylinder or damage in the brake pedal parts.

                That said, a worn out or mis-assembled clutch is also a possibility.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                Comment


                  #9
                  I have the same deadplay as 99em1 with my clutch pedal too. About an inch or so of travel where there is zero resistance whatsoever.

                  My clutch pedal sits at the right height and works properly though, the deadplay is just annoying.
                  Any idea what might cause dead play? To me, it seems like a worn physical mounting point rather than anything hydraulic.

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                    #10
                    From what I've witnessed, the dead area of 1/2 to an inch is normal. I've driven a few e30's and they were all the same including my car before and after a new clutch and associated system parts. I vote wrong or defective MC.

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                      #11
                      I would even check the little connector hose piece that connects the hose from the reservoir to the MC. It broke on me once. Not only did fluid go everywhere, but the clutch pedal would have zero resistance until about halfway down and would catch at the floor.

                      I don't think a dead area of 1/2 - 1 in is normal, as it seems the clutch pedal has about 4-6 in of travel. I'd say anywhere from a 1/4 to a 1/2 of an inch of dead play is normal. An inch when it comes to pedal travel is quite a lot.
                      Me: "I can't wait to redline my car!"
                      Mark: "Didn't you just break a rocker arm?"
                      Me: "Yeah, I don't think I've learned my lesson."
                      Mark: "You never will."

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                        #12
                        Did you put the little helper spring assembly back in?
                        Suspension tips here...
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

                        sigpic

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                          #13
                          I never took out any springs. It can't be a spring issue because when the eccentric bolt is disconnected the pedal automatically rises to the height of the brake and looks normal again. I have to manually push it an inch down so that it mates up to the eyelet of the master. Double checked part numbers and I got the correct one. I have some time for once today so I'll get under the dash again and see if I notice anything new.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            It really sounds like you don't have the system fully bled if you are engaging at the floor. Does the pedal feel light?

                            When I bleed the slave I take it off and turn it upside down so the valve faces upwards, this is the only way I have been able to get the air out of the line on many, many e30's. If you didn't do this then you most likely still have air.

                            Oh yeah, if you have never done it with the slave in your hands, and you are having a friend work the pedal for you, make damn sure you squeeze in the rod and keep it compressed until he is done working the pedal. One or two trips to the floor should be plenty because you will run out of fluid very quickly and have to bleed again. Once you tighten the valve make sure no one touches the clutch pedal until you have the slave reinstalled.
                            Last edited by Jparkr; 11-28-2010, 11:45 AM.

                            1987 PRO-3 car /1990 325is (2.7i Concours)

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                              #15
                              check your pedal to see if its bent, mine is bent and it sits about a half inch lower than the brake pedal with the eccentric fully out.
                              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                              Originally posted by TimKninja
                              Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

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