Tips for getting tranny back on?

[NC325iC]

i cant say this enough, make sure the alignment tool is slip and slide in there. I had mine in so it would slide in pretty easily but getting the trans in was impossible, re adjust so the tool would slide in/out without any force at all just pinky finger back and forth slippity slide. trans slides in right away

[99em1]

It WAS the damn alignment. Realigned it, and the getrag went in first try. CLUNK and I knew it was money.

For those who hate slop, I swapped in some delrins and fabbed my own oilite bearings in the shift joint which made a 100% improvement in feel with the evo3. AKG Delrins $15 + $10 bearings = awesome shifts. I'll probably make a thread soon with pics for other's to DIY. Beats spending $50+ for replacement OE bushings. Shifts are as precise as an S2000.

[ldsbeaker]

It WAS the damn alignment. Realigned it, and the getrag went in first try. CLUNK and I knew it was money.

Word. That sound is unmistakable.

Shifts are as precise as an S2000.

??? All that win, then this? *scowl*

[99em1]

hey man all the hondas I've had shifted awesome. they were just too damn slow

[DrJosh]

I am going to bump this instead of making a new thread.

So I am having the same problems but my alignment looks spot on when I stick my head in the tunnel. The clutch alignment tool slips in and out with ease the first to times but then gets stuck. Its almost like it creates a suction. When I pull the tool out, with a alot of force, the is a loud pop exactly like I am breaking suction. Is this normal?

Also, how far in does the pilot bearing go?

Thanks,
Josh

[dkbmxer002]

are all the pressure plate bolts tight to spec?

[99em1]

Even if the plate wasn't tightened up to spec, the tranny would still go on. You would have issues operating the clutch though I would imagine since the TOB would be riding the pressure plate fingers constantly.

As for the clutch tool, for me mine never slipped in and out like it was covered in KY or something. I had to put some effort, but the key was it was a smooth motion and not getting caught on something so I knew it was good to go.

Let me ask you something. Are you using a lift or jackstands? Because if you're on stands like I was, then getting your head in the tunnel in that super awkward minute long angled sit up position makes it realllly hard to make any kind of proper visual. And if you're tightening the plate on the disc in that position, and by chance give any slack on the tool because you get tired, then its probably going to fall just out of spec. FYI my alignment tool went in and out as well even when the disc wasn't properly centered, just not as smoothly. In the end, since I couldn't jack the car up any higher, I just took a digital micrometer and just roughly measured between the circumference of the pressure plate fingers and the outer circumference of the clutch tool a couple times to know I was still on track. Problem solved.

As far as the pilot bearing, it should go as far as it can. Take a 1/2 extension or whatever and gently tap it in with a rubber mallet. When it doesn't go in anymore, stop tapping. I'm assuming you're working with M20/G260, in which case if you have the right pilot bearing, and it is seated all the way, you can eliminate this as the cause.

Good luck. This is definitely one of those "I'm gettin sick of this shit" moments.

[DrJosh]

^ Thanks! It is for sure one of those moments. This project that was supposed to take a weekend or two has turned out to be a few months. Im putting money on the pilot bearing not allowing the tranny to mate up to the motor. I only put the pilot bearing in so that it was flush in the hole. Thats what I saw in a picture on one of the DIY's so I copied.