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    diff-to-subframe bolts

    Anybody want to recommend a tool setup to reach the bolts on top of the subframe? I haven't tried those yet & would like to use a proven combo if that makes it easier.

    Thanks
    "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

    -Dr. Paul Forrester



    Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

    #2
    A wrench.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
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      #3
      Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
      A wrench.

      Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe

      Originally posted by Top Gear
      Just imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.

      Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


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        #4
        Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
        A wrench.

        Originally posted by Roysneon
        $5 shipped?
        Originally posted by MarkD
        You are a strange dude, I'n not answering any more posts from you.

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          #5
          When I have to change a differential I drop the subframe a couple of inches. That makes it easy to get to the top bolts. Unless horribly corroded into place, once you knock the subframe bolts back up the subframe drops easy.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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            #6
            Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
            A wrench.

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              #7
              19 milla
              world renown Harry Potter expert
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                #8
                Originally posted by nrubenstein View Post
                A wrench.

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                  #9
                  My dad used a wrench and a pipe on his recently.
                  Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                    #10
                    Corection, A big one
                    Its not too hard

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                      #11
                      one of them 19 mill open box wrenches with the ratcheting side is best for the tight spot up top. regular 19 socket and wrench works for the bottom two.

                      Easy as pie. I can swap a diff in about 30 min unless I fuck up the axle bolts.

                      Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by shiboujin View Post
                        one of them 19 mill open box wrenches with the ratcheting side is best for the tight spot up top. regular 19 socket and wrench works for the bottom two.

                        Easy as pie. I can swap a diff in about 30 min unless I fuck up the axle bolts.
                        30 minutes? I'm 2 months in and the diff is still in the car. If any one of you guys that can do this stuff fast lived in Las Vegas, I would gladly pay you good money to help me out - I have a long list.

                        OK, now all 4 bolts to the subframe and the bolt to the sheetmetal are all out, along with the sensor wire, driveshaft nuts and axle bolts. The diff is still hanging up on the driveshaft studs - does the driveshaft have to come out? Car is an S52/ZF swap, so it's possible the amount of play in the driveshaft is different from stock.

                        Can you normally shove the driveshaft far enough forward so the studs clear the diff input flange?
                        "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

                        -Dr. Paul Forrester



                        Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

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                          #13
                          I did not have to remove my driveshaft. Just pull it back as you lower it to disengage the bolts.
                          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                            #14
                            A lot of the problem was the E36 exhaust that the PO dented in so it could snuggle up under the diff. I had pulled it out of the way a little and zip tied it there, but undoing the hangars and moving the exhaust a down and out a couple inches allowed the diff to come right out.

                            Now I'm trying to get the 4 subframe to diff bolts back in. It takes Yoshi 30 minutes to R&R the entire diff. It takes me 30 minutes to get the first subframe-to-diff bolt lined up where I can catch a thread and start turning it. Anyway, 2 down (the fronts), 2 to go, but with the fronts in and loose and the bushing bolt in and loose, I can't get the upper rear bolts in for anything. And I dropped a wrench point-first onto my forehead, but felt grateful, 'cause it it didn't hit my eye.
                            "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

                            -Dr. Paul Forrester



                            Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

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