Clutch won't disengage - master/slave prob???

[hotghias]

So... Is it possible that it's something wrong with the actual clutch? Or does this sound like it HAS to be the master or slave:

My 87 manual eta has been getting more difficult to shift lately - hard to put it into gear, and wanting to creep forward when I force it into first at a stop even though the clutch is pushed all the way in.

Today it failed - won't go into gear at all (from neutral with the engine running). It shifts into gear fine when the engine is not running. It failed while starting on a steep incline, so I thought maybe air had gotten into the reservoir/lines. The brake/clutch fluid reservoir was low, so I tried bleeding it in the parking lot. Now the clutch seems even worse (softer) and won't come all the way back up.

If anyone can help me figure this thing out, that'd be awesome.

[Adrian_Visser]

Look under the car at the left side of the transmission bellhousing, is there brake fluid visible? How about the carpet on the driver's side is it wet?

[hotghias]

No, no visible leaks anywhere. Although there was a wisp of smoke around the slave cylinder (!!!) after attempting to muscle it into gear.
I'm trying to figure out whether to attempt to fix the car where it is, tow it to a friend's place to fix, or sell the hulk for parts (would be tragic, but I have limited time/space these days). Thanks for the response!!!!

[jlevie]

This will be either the clutch hydraulics, or a worn out clutch. If there are no leaks at the slave or lines, the problem could be the master cylinder. In that case replace both the slave and master, bleed the system, and see if the problem is still present. If it is, replace the clutch.

[Ryann]

Could also be a seized pilot bearing, which can cause your trans. input shaft to continue spinning with the crank regardless of the clutch. Either way if your problem's not hydraulic the clutch has to come out.

[hotghias]

Crap, I hope you're wrong Ryann. I'm off to replace the slave today. I take it that the pilot bearing would require me to drop the tranny... can that be a driveway job?

[Ryann]

If you've got access to some ramps or jack stands and the proper tools, it's definitely driveway doable.

[hotghias]

Well, I replaced the slave cylinder, re-bled, and no improvement. Unless the master cylinder is bad (I'm assuming it's OK because it bled fine and didn't show any leaks?), then I guess it's in the clutch/pilot bearing. I wish I could DIY this one, but my shop/tools are in another city.

Anybody know how much shops generally charge for a clutch job?

[Bimmerfreak87]

Your probably looking at the $500 range to have a shop change your clutch. I used a shop called Clutch Masters and it ran about $550 IIRC.

[hotghias]

Good Lord, the quotes with parts included from a few places here in South Carolina (!!!) were $700 to $960! WTF, the car's only worth $1500 tops. I had to get it towed to the $700 place before it got towed for illegal parking.

Now I remember why I've always done my own work. Sigh. Will update the thread with the mechanic's diagnosis and results of this weird clutch failure.

[hotghias]

OK, here are the results: Ryann was closest.
Clutch hydraulics were fine. Clutch and pressure plate were alright. Pilot bearing was alright. Throw out bearing 'sploded!


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It's weird, but the clutch is lighter and much smoother now than it has been for the 6 years I've owned the car. When I bought it, it had some clutch chatter if you were barely slipping it. Also, the car used to make a whining noise in neutral with the clutch out that I falsely attributed to a messed up tranny - it's quieter now. Another sign someone might have caught on to was, over the years I've had to shorten and then remove my hardware store clutch stop because the "friction point" in the clutch has gotten progressively closer to the floor (and, in the last week before failure, seemingly past the floor).

Anyway, just wanted to share the info in case anybody else ever had the same problem.

[lateracer]

I think I'm having the same problem. I have the same issues/symptoms (friction point is near the floor).

I just replaced my master and slave cylinders. The pilot bearing is new. The clutch, pressure plate, and throwout are from a Sachs kit about a year old with very little use on them.

At first I thought I still had air in my system, but now I'm starting to think it's something mechanical...any way for me to KNOW it's not just air in the system?