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So here's a question... what do you do if you blow up your inner cv and the axle just spins free from the hub? Any suggestions on what to do to lock up the hub so I can get that nut off? If I hit it with the impact right now, it just spins and spins and spins...
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Mine was on top not on the bottom 1988 325is Not sure if you can put a socket on the nut if it goes on first.
GL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostI'm positive. See http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...37&hg=33&fg=40Originally posted by rammstein View PostDefinitely goes on first. Check your car right now- hopefully its on that way :)
I followed these procedures.
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Definitely goes on first. Check your car right now- hopefully its on that way :)
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Originally posted by tonywonder View Postare you sure the lockplate goes on before you put the nut on? i did the opposite. i hammered the lockplate after i put the axle nut back on. it seems to make more sense that way since it will lock the nut in place. unless im misunderstanding something...this was also reverse of removal since the first thing i removed was the lockplate.
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostThe lock plate goes on under the nut. A drift and a sledge will almost always get the axles out of the hub. Getting new ones in can be a challenge and there is a special tool for this. But a through cleaning of the splines in the hub, to the point that they are bright metal, will usually allow the new axles to slide wiouth extreme difficulty.
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Update: Armed with a 30MM socket and impact wrench, the nuts came off NO problem. I am officially in love with my impact wrench.
Axle #1 came out with moderate hammering, but then to actually get it off the car I had to push up the trailing arm, because the sway bar was in the way. I assume on a stock car this isn't an issue. Axle #2 did not want to come loose. Torch plus a much angrier style of hammering got it out.
Tonight/tomorrow begins reassembly, and hopefully an end to this chapter.
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Luckily I am not doing anything to the fronts. This all started when I was changing the differential. Then my right rear shock puked out its oil, and I also saw the worn out CV boots. And so the cascade of shit began.
Sears had nothing for me. The biggest they had was 27MM.
The 32 is in fact the non-impact chrome type, so I will put goggles on and pray. When I go back to autozone tonight for the 30mm though, I am pretty sure they actually had the 30 in impact so I should be ok on that.
Even though I couldn't take the existing nuts off last night, I put the socket in there and spun it around to see how deep I could get it in there, and it left a ring on the lockplate, so I THINK it will fit in there ok- but I see what you mean- there isn't much room for a thick socket, that's for sure.
I think after tonight, if I have any more setbacks I may enlist the sawzall/chopsaw/dynamite. And from what I have read, having the right sockets/parts is just the beginning, so there may be anger for me and lulz for you all in the near future.
It's weird coming to work in the morning in a standard professional environment with blackened, bloodied hands. I should be driving a new car like the rest of these guys. What is wrong with me...
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Not to throw everything off, but I think the front wheels are 36mm so you'll need another socket if you do those. Here's the lovely part, the hubs dont allow enough room for thick walled impact sockets, soooo go get the crapsman sockets, wear a faceshield and impact on the chrome sockets, return and replace.
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I think early model are 30 and late are 32. I'm not entirely sure. I ran into the same issue. I even bought a 31mm for shits and giggles.
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Update- well the nut that came with the new axles is 32MM, so I looked all over and bought a 32MM socket. I discovered that Sears and Home Depot don't sell those. You have to go to an Autoparts store. I learned that Home Depot sucks, and Advanced Auto was actually not bad.
Here's the fun part. I got home, and the nuts on the car are 30MM as everyone seemed to think. So now I need to go back out tonight and get a 30MM socket as well. In addition to finding 2 lockplates from the dealer, if they have them. Times like this make leased cars seem attractive. E30 is lucky I like it right now :(
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Thanks for the help everyone. So I am hoping that the extra space afforded to me by not having the diff installed will assist me in getting these in. I just looked and the axles didn't come with new lockplates, so I am shit out of luck now until I can get to a dealer. Shit.
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The lock plate goes on under the nut. A drift and a sledge will almost always get the axles out of the hub. Getting new ones in can be a challenge and there is a special tool for this. But a through cleaning of the splines in the hub, to the point that they are bright metal, will usually allow the new axles to slide wiouth extreme difficulty.
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I think what confused me was this language from the bentley:
"Installation is the reverse of removal. Lubricate the inner surface of the axle nut with oil. Torque the inner CV jOint internal-hex-head bolts to 58 to 63 Nm (42 to 46 ft. lb.). Torque the axle nut to 195 to 210 Nm ( 144 to 155 ft. lb.) , and install a new lockplate."
The last part seems to imply that you would put the lockplate on after the nut, if you treat the statement as a representation of chronological order.
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OK- I already have the axles disconnected from the diff- the diff is actually out too so I have lots of room to manuever.
I'll get crazy with the anti-seize. I use that stuff on everything.
I bought new axles and they came with new nuts, but I am not sure about the lock plates. I'll have to look at it when I get home.
EDIT- ok- I looked at the bentley again. I understand what the lockplate is now. Its the plate with the three notches in it under the nut. I just hope that the new axles came with these. Otherwise I'll have to go to the friggen dealer parts department on Saturday.
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