Axle nut removal

[zaq123]

Think about tapping the hub with a hammer and a socket. Now think about sliding through two off axis 90 degree corners and ask yourself if tapping it with a hammer will hurt the car. If you are still really worried, try to use a puller of some type as an on car press.

Not sure about axles being a press fit, rather they should normally just about slide in with slight persuasion, however, some axles are coated with something during their (re)manufacturing processes, making them slightly larger than the splines. Clearly, too much lash is bad, but so is a too tight fit that does not allow for some movement.

step 15 in the below link is what I'm talking about. Looks like some half-shaft axles are meant to be pressed in. There are some that not, they are some that are. It just threw me off that the same manufacturer could supply both types hence time wasted...well, I guess I learned something in the process

https://www.rtsauto.com/how-to-change-rear-wheel-bearing-on-an-e30/

[roguetoaster]

Think about tapping the hub with a hammer and a socket. Now think about sliding through two off axis 90 degree corners and ask yourself if tapping it with a hammer will hurt the car. If you are still really worried, try to use a puller of some type as an on car press.

Not sure about axles being a press fit, rather they should normally just about slide in with slight persuasion, however, some axles are coated with something during their (re)manufacturing processes, making them slightly larger than the splines. Clearly, too much lash is bad, but so is a too tight fit that does not allow for some movement.

[zaq123]

You just tap or smash it on, and I've had it go on smoothly or take real force, which causes me to suspect that the manufacturing tolerances on them are all over the map. The socket you used for the nut generally works well, but a 1-1/4" socket can also work just for the plate. It is usually advisable to buy three for a job when you take out both axles in case one gets too warped to work.

Thank you for those tips. I just don't want to go through all that banging on the bearing after taking care not to do so with proper bearing/hub and axle pressing tools. Seems like there should be a simple way to drive that sucker. I tried 1.25" PVC pipe that fits well over 30mm nut. It seems that PVC pope walls are too thick and won't let the retainer compress into the smaller diameter of the hub. Those freaking axles so far are the most frastreting part of this complete restoration. First I thought that I had a defective axle: one was going into the hub perfectly and other did not ( I'm using GKN axles, not some cheap crap). After spending 5 hours marking its splines with the paint marker, looking for interference spots and working it gently with a mini file.....I learned that some e30 axles are actually pressed it. Ok, one 22mm special tool later, axles are in. Now that stupid locking plate. WTF?

[roguetoaster]

Just to confirm: the hub is machined with a outer diameter as big as that locking plate and the slightly smaller dimeter further into the hub. Those 3 slotted groves are going uniformly all the way down into the hub. Does that locking plate gets pushed in (over the nut) all the way to the bottom of the hub (into the smaller diameter)? What is the best way to push it all the way down? The same 30mm socket doesn't work too well as it pinches the locking plate on the nut.

You just tap or smash it on, and I've had it go on smoothly or take real force, which causes me to suspect that the manufacturing tolerances on them are all over the map. The socket you used for the nut generally works well, but a 1-1/4" socket can also work just for the plate. It is usually advisable to buy three for a job when you take out both axles in case one gets too warped to work.

[zaq123]

Blast from the past but incase anyone elase tackles this job i can confirm what was stated already the locking plate goes on after the big nut. It is supossed to be hammered/deformed over the nut so it actually does its function and locks the nut and helps reduce risk of it unwinding. I think the risk is exremely low if torque half decently but it is what it is.

If the plate is put under the nut its acting as a useless glorified washer.

Just to confirm: the hub is machined with a outer diameter as big as that locking plate and the slightly smaller dimeter further into the hub. Those 3 slotted groves are going uniformly all the way down into the hub. Does that locking plate gets pushed in (over the nut) all the way to the bottom of the hub (into the smaller diameter)? What is the best way to push it all the way down? The same 30mm socket doesn't work too well as it pinches the locking plate on the nut.

[digger]

Blast from the past but incase anyone elase tackles this job i can confirm what was stated already the locking plate goes on after the big nut. It is supossed to be hammered/deformed over the nut so it actually does its function and locks the nut and helps reduce risk of it unwinding. I think the risk is exremely low if torque half decently but it is what it is.

If the plate is put under the nut its acting as a useless glorified washer.

[Brandon12V]

just a little update. I ended up using a 3/4" breaker bar, extension, & 1 3/16" socket to get the axle nuts loose. 30 mm in 3/4" drive is hard to come by but standard it the same size. it may be useful for some of you.

[Simon S]

I'm really starting to become annoyed by my e30, but alot of it could be the PO, as it ssems it was drove hard and never even put away let alone reg maint on it ... and once I got into fixing the probs, its been 1 headache after another LOL Leave it to the Germans to make it difficult, luckily I'm 95% German and stubborn/hardheaded enough to fix it up jst for spite LOL

ha – I’m heavy German as well. The stubborn characteristic has carried me far.

Don’t be too hard on the PO – these cars aren’t getting any younger..

.. wish me luck, and hope it dont piss me off so much that I just grab the 12gauge and put this poopschnaz out of its misery lol

That’s what beer is for !! lol

Sounds like you have the spirit – and rounding up needed tools is the first hurdle. Most parts stores I’ve went to have had hex sets available – and good luck with the puller. I got lucky with the plumbing-parts tool I whipped up for subframe bushing removal. Rounding up all those parts took trips to several different hardware and plumbing stores.

[Aardy54]

Simon - thanks much!! It's sounding real bad today so think it's a take a day or 2 off work and get them fixed now! - I'm really starting to become annoyed by my e30, but alot of it could be the PO, as it ssems it was drove hard and never even put away let alone reg maint on it ... and once I got into fixing the probs, its been 1 headache after another LOL Leave it to the Germans to make it difficult, luckily I'm 95% German and stubborn/hardheaded enough to fix it up jst for spite LOL

Anyhows - thank you for the info on lockplates - you are right, makes much sense to go on top of the nut instead of under the nut. Now to find a 12pt allen to fit the differencial mouting bolts for the half shafts. Cross your fingers, wish me luck, and hope it dont piss me off so much that I just grab the 12gauge and put this poopschnaz out of its msery lol

[Simon S]

[Simon S]

fwiw, I’m going to submit a vote for lock plate on last.

Logic:
First torque nut down – then lock nut in place.

Lock plate has three groves on outer circumference. Once nut was torqued down – I then used 32mm socket and mallet to drive lock plate on to the contours of the axle nut. Thus, the nut is locked in place and purpose is served. (it can not rotate. it is locked in place)

If you put the lock plate under/behind the axle nut – you might as well use a flat washer. I don’t see what logic you guys are using by putting the lock plate on first(?)


It’s what Bentley states. (I wouldn’t build a car based on realOEM diagrams. lol) Furthermore, how could you remove the lock plate first if it was behind the axle nut?

[Simon S]

.. new lockplates. Can these be gotten elsewhere besides the dealership parts counter?

a) yes. There are multiple online retailers.
b) we’re talking about a pretty cheap part here so dealership may be most convenient.

Also - can the bearings be removed/installed without the special pullers described in http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_...ngs/index.html DIY tutorial?

I think a bottom-line is that you can bang them out – but for installation, you’ll want a puller tool of some sort.

Check this thread out. The way I did it was pretty ghetto - but they're on right. I had a difficult time finding a local parts store that would rent desired tool.

[Aardy54]

Am getting ready to (after reading this thread maybe not ready) to do a rear wheel bearing and half shaft replacement on both sides - new wheel bearings and new half shafts, neither came with new lockplates. Can these be gotten elsewhere besides the dealership parts counter? Also - can the bearings be removed/installed without the special pullers described in http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_...ngs/index.html DIY tutorial?

[canucke30]

one problem... I have the m10 with rear drum brakes... any other thoughts??

[Brandon12V]

Well if your car is still on the ground with the wheels attached(which it should be), turn the car on and have a buddy press on the brakes. Pull the ebrake if needed as well. Should hold it tight enough to get off.