"Seized" G260 *Fixed*

[pantelones]

I think I just fucked up my transmission.

I am using the newer aluminum shift carrier on my trans instead of the old sheet metal style since I have the mounting tabs for it. So I screwed in the left bolt for the old one almost all the way in (it will leak if you don’t put the bolt in), and I didn’t cut the bolt shorter. The trans now only turns about a 1/16th'ish of a revolution and I cannot move the selector rod.

After looking at it carefully I realized that the 5th/reverse shift rod is directly behind the bolt and I am guessing that I pushed the rod back. The trans was in gear, but I am not sure which. So it probably tried to shift into 5th while it was in another gear. Is this something that can only be fixed by tearing the trans apart, or can I try and remove those little balls and springs to free up the trans? Or did I just bend or break something and my transmission is now trash? Thanks in advance!

-Matt


IMG_3658 by mattrides, on Flickr

[jlevie]

Have you tried removing that bolt?

[pantelones]

Have you tried removing that bolt?

Yes, the photo I posted is after I did this. :(

[pantelones]

It just so happens that a guy on e30 tech just did the same thing...


"Problem fixed. I had the springs out for the detents but left the balls inside. A put a wrench on the crank bolt and just turned it a few times. And then pushed the shift lever forward and back a few times and whatever was stuck inside the trans loosened up. Shifts into all gears with no problems. I cut down the two bolts for the sheet metal shift carrier, dabbed some blue locktite on the threads and installed them. Still shifts fine."

I just tried this and it didn’t work. I’m guessing that since his was in neutral, it was only half shifted into 5th and was relatively easy to un-jam. Mine is in a gear, and half shifted into 5th. I’m not really sure if I should try to break it loose or just take it apart.

[MR 325]

I had a similar issue with my old 325eS. I upgraded to the late style shifter and used too long of bolts in place of the oil shifter mounts. The car wouldn't go in to 5th gear, it would just grind excessively, lol. Ended up pulling the trans only to find this problem. Cut the bolts down and all was well.

[pantelones]

^^^ So you were able to shift, but just not into 5th? Was the output and input shaft locked up when you took it out? I am really hesitant to force the shafts loose, and I don’t have all of my shifter linkage yet so I can’t play with the selector rod with a lot of force. I would rather not split the case, but I do have t put a new rear seal on it so it's not out of the question.

[pantelones]

Progress....

So I separated the case to play with the forks to fix my "seized" transmission. I haven't come across a thread that shows how to do this so I will do a short write up.

I used some plumbing parts from Menards, and a 2-jaw puller. The only thing you have to do to make it work is drill some holes in the base plate. I used the input-shaft housing cover to match up where the two existing holes are, then marked the four that needed to be drilled.


IMG_3682 by mattrides, on Flickr

This gets bolted to the front part of the case where the you see the six bolts for the input-shaft housing cover. The jaws of the puller go on the outside of the reducer, and the bolt for the jaws pushes against the input shaft. Once you have it on there turn it until you hear a pop, check the alignment pins in the back of the trans to make sure that they are allowing the case to split evenly. If not (like in my case), a few taps with a hammer will even it out.

Make sure that you remove the little spacer that is in front of the bearing, don't even question it, take it out or this may happen...


IMG_3680 by mattrides, on Flickr

That spacer will get caught in the grove for the lock ring and cause the case to get stuck. If you keep cranking on it/let it sit with tension your cheap Chinese pluming part will go pop, and your tool will fly a few feet. Man, I am glad that I wasn't in front of it.


IMG_3681 by mattrides, on Flickr

Then you are left with this :D


IMG_3683 by mattrides, on Flickr

To "un-seize" the transmission I took off the indent cap, and removed all of the springs along with the top two balls. From there I tapped the 3rd/4th gear selector shaft into neutral, so now the tans was just in fifth. Then I was able to play with the selector rod and, spin the trans freely; from there I just played with it until I found neutral. Lesson learned, don't just thread in that bolt, just cut it to about a half inch and use sealant. At least I got to see all of my gears, bearings, and syncro's are in great shape. :)

[xwill112x]

How short would you recomend cutting those bolts?

[pantelones]

How short would you recomend cutting those bolts?

Short, maybe like half or 3/4 of an inch. Also put some sort of sealant on it.

[Pennyw1se]

I had the exact same problem as MR 325 where I couldn't shift into 5th. It felt like it was in gear but not quite all the way in. Replaced a 1" bolt with a 1/2" bolt and my problem went away.