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Lack of pressure in Clutch pedal(Help)

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    Lack of pressure in Clutch pedal(Help)

    After putting in a new master cylinder I noticed that my clutch pedal is not rising as high as it should. I'm am to pull it up to the proper height with my foot, but after compressing it will go down a bit.

    From what I've read on the forums with this issue a bad slave cylinder would cause it to go to the floor, so I don't believe it's that.

    I am able to engage the clutch and shift through gears.

    From what I could see in the master cylinder area, the assembly seems to have been welding at the bracket where the MC attaches. A friend of mine has mentioned that the bracket being uneven could have caused my old MC to break from stress.

    So, this has actually been my second time replacing the master cylinder. I'm pretty certain the bracket is causing them to break :/ But, after the first replacement I did not notice a lack of pressure in the pedal.Also, I am pretty sure I bled it properly

    I'll definitely need to buy a new pedal assembly, so I was wondering if an early model pedal assembly will work well in my late model non airbag 325i.

    I would also like to know what may be causing the lack of pressure? I'm having trouble finding info regarding this particular situation. Most threads cover only the MC/SC replacement

    #2
    You have to bleed it, you probably have air in it
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    BIMMER für IMMER

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      #3
      In my post, I mentioned that I have bled it. Anyway, I pumped the clutch pedal around 100 times and no air came out when I loosened the bleed valve.

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        #4
        How did you bleed it? You need to loosen the valve, push down on the clutch, than close the valve and pump it (do this a few times) if you dont have someone to help it will be a pain, also remove the little cup from the master cylinder and COMPLETELY top it off when you do this, as the res needs to be completely filled to get down to the hose that runs to the clutch.
        -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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          #5
          yeah, I had someone helping me and I left the cap off and topped it off.

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            #6
            Did you remove the little cup from inside? Sometimes it will hinder fluid going down to the clutch during the process as it doesn't take much to empty the master and slave clutch cylinders

            Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
            -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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              #7
              I wasnt aware of the little cup.

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                #8
                Yeah if you look in, theres a small cup (easily removed by grabbing the sides and pulling up) ive noticed that when doing bleeding procedures sometimes you can top off the cup but things dont quite make it into the reservoir quick enough or not quite full enough to get to the hose that leads to the clutch cylinders. So whenever im bleeding the brakes or the clutch (more so with the clutch since the fluid really needs to be topped of) i remove the cup to get as much fluid as possible in the res.
                -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                  #9
                  Ah, I'll try that. Also, is an early model pedal assembly compatible with a late model? I DO NOT have an airbag.

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                    #10
                    Yes.

                    But, alternatively. I have a manual pedal box without the pedals I'll sell you cheap.


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                      #11
                      I always replace the slave when replacing the master. Cheap, quick and easy. Connect slave to the line, open bleeder and depress- then install. The slave will be bled. Took me ten minutes last time.

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