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Driveshaft to Diff bolts

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    Driveshaft to Diff bolts

    How the hell are you guys getting these of? I've been trying for 2 days and the bolts are starting to round. I've tried using the 17mm wrench that comes with the tool kit and a closed wrench like these to no avail, i've been soaking the bolts daily in wd40 as well.

    #2
    Ummmm....aren't they socket head cap screws? If not, someone before you swapped these bolts in and they might have loctited them on :(

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      #3
      nah, im talking about the shaft from the transmission to the diff, not the hubs to the diff

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        #4
        Um, I believe they are knurled bolts. As in they have splines to keep them from rotating. Only the nut will turn.

        Use a long pipe to get more leverage on the wrench, or use an impact wrench

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          #5
          I used a propane torch to heat up the rusted bolts. Just have someone hold the brake so the driveshaft won't spin. I also used another wrench to extend and leverage the 17mm one. It works great.

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            #6
            I use a standard sized 17mm open end wrench on the transmission side and a long 17mm box end wrench on drive shaft side. On occasion I've had to heat the nuts with an oxy-acetelyne torch. In which case I replace the fasteners with new parts.

            WD40 is not a penetrating oil. Use PBlaster or Kroil and allow it to work for a couple of days.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              soak in PB blaster
              '87 325ic, powered by S50.

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                #8
                Here in CA a 17mm ratcheting wrench is all you need.
                BimmerHeads
                Classic BMW Specialists
                Santa Clarita, CA

                www.BimmerHeads.com

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                  #9
                  Sounds like rust+ improper open end wrench created nut = circle.

                  One good way for you to solve this would be vice grips.
                  Another would be dremmel a slot in the nuts.

                  Obviously new nuts are needed; if the studs are bad you can also easily replace them w new ones- a simple hammer would be the tool to use
                  OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                  Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                  Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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                    #10
                    A nut splitter would work as well.

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                      #11
                      Transmission fluid and kerosene in a spray bottle is great penetrating fluid

                      Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
                      -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                        #12
                        Thanks for all the advice guys! just got back from successfully removing all of them, ended up needing a proper 17mm open end wrench and shit loads of penetrating fluid (works so much better than wd40).

                        This was the bolt i was most worried about

                        it may not look that bad but that combined with not much access was quite difficult to defeat. Ill be replacing all the bolts, 24 years is long enough for these guys.

                        Now i just need to cut my exhaust bolts in half and then out comes the subframe :)

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