EDIT: clutch STILL dosnt work

[dougie30]

Edit: ok so bought new clutch master. Bleed the system with power bleeder. Still won't go into gear. I removed the transmission to make sure everything on the inside was ok and everything looked ok. I didn't remove the pressure plate and everything I just left that alone.

I have no idea now. I don't know what to do. I have done everything to make this thing work and it still won't go into gear. I even made sure the slave cylinder was moving inside. The trans and it is.

Any info would be greatly appreciated

OK so I bought a brand new slave cylinder and hose/line and bleed it before my engine was in. Got my engine running and drove it around fine!

Got 3 new calipers and bleed my breaks and my breaks work fine but now my clutch won won't let me go into gear and the pedal goes to the floor. I tried bleeding it 2 ways, from the bottom with the little oil can and from the top with the pedal.

I have yet to try a power bleeder.

I just want to know if I was supposed to bleed the clutch first then breaks or breaks then clutch or even if I missed something.

[M-technik-3]

The clutch uses the higher portion of the reservoir. So it sounds like when you bleed the BRAKES you introduced a pocket of air into the clutch system. Autozone and Advanced both rent the tool for Free just pay the deposit. Refundable when returned.

Or make your own with a weed sprayer. Having one makes a big difference.

[Poorboyz]

Check by the clutch pedal for any signs of brake fluid.

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[dougie30]

Tech, what tool are you talking about? Pics? Also what do you mean by " only the higher part of the resivour" it looks like its all one to me

And poorboyz I checked that already but thanks anyway

[M-technik-3]

Ok the reservoir has the braided line that feed the clutch master and slave that basically comes out of the Nipple..."he said nipple" We that is higher on the system than the brake feed which is at the bottom and feeds the brake master.

Works so that BRAKES safety item will have fluid before the clutch so you can stop even if you do not have a working clutch system.

The older way way of pump pump pump hold works It's just more efficient to do it using a pressurized way IMO others will differ.

[dougie30]

OK that's definitely good to know. I'm not sure what's going on with mine then because I have bled twice now. Is there any thing I am missing here?

Also I was wondering can I use a power bleeder and suck the fluid OUT? will that harm anything? Instead of pushing it up through the system

[M-technik-3]

E30's have upright bleeder valve so you should be able to use the power bleeder. Power bleeder forces the fluid through the system not pulling it.

Or you could pull the slave and bench bleed it while connected to the system.

[jlevie]

Bleeding the brakes should have no affect on the clutch system, even if you allowed the brake side of the reservoir to run dry. Within the reservoir there is a small section for the clutch and a larger section for the brakes. Either section can run dry without affecting the other.

This sounds like a coincidental failure of the clutch master cylinder.

[Poorboyz]

My clutch went out and it ended up being the 45° plastic elbow that goes from soft line into the clutch master cylinder. I couldn't see any fluid by looking but found fluid in between carpet insulation and firewall when I pulled carpet back. The piece I'm talking about is #7 on the realoem.com clutch control diagram.

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[dougie30]

Mtechnic- a friend of mine has a electric power bleeder that sucks the fluid through the system. If worst come to worst I will try that. Also how do you bench bleed the slave?

Jlevie- everything worked fine about a week ago. I come back bleed the breaks and now my clutch doesn't work, I think that's a little fishy. Also is there a way to tell if the master cly has gone bad?

Poorboyz- I will have to get down there and check it out

[M-technik-3]

Somebody did a write up on it here. Check the DIY thread for Clutch Slave bleeding.

[jlevie]

Jlevie- everything worked fine about a week ago. I come back bleed the breaks and now my clutch doesn't work, I think that's a little fishy. Also is there a way to tell if the master cly has gone bad?

The most common symptom of a failed master cylinder is a pedal that goes to the floor when there are no leaks and the system has been bled.

[dougie30]

The most common symptom of a failed master cylinder is a pedal that goes to the floor when there are no leaks and the system has been bled.

Wow I didn't know that. Shouldn't it leak though?

[jlevie]

Wow I didn't know that. Shouldn't it leak though?

It can leak into the car, but more commonly the fluid leaks past the seal and returns to the reservoir.

[dougie30]

It can leak into the car, but more commonly the fluid leaks past the seal and returns to the reservoir.

Thanks a lot I will definitely be replacing this, I had almost lost hope in my car.....I can never catch a break with this thing