Update: the clutch was stuck to the fly wheel from sitting for a few weeks. That's why it wouldn't disengage.
I just put it up on the lift, put it in first and started it, then stopped on the breaks. I'm all good now thanks for the help guys.
EDIT: clutch STILL dosnt work
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I can see the slave piston moving in and out about a inch. Is that normal or should it be more. Still won't go into gear.
Also how much play should the slave piston have ? It moves a lot in a circular motion.Leave a comment:
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i understand how to bleed the clutch and I have tried it manually and from the bottom the problem is that I don't know why all of this isn't working. I have yet to try to take the ss out and push the little piston with my hand. I will try that tomorrow.
I really appreciate the info, thanks.
I will update this tomorrow at some point.Leave a comment:
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Bleeding the clutch really isn't hard. You do not need a power bleeder. I replaced my lines, master and and slave cylinders and bled them manually (wife was pushing the clutch). If you keep the reservoir full above the clutch line outlet, most of the air will bubble up and out of the system. I had the slave cylinder off of the tranny and pushed the plunger all the way in by hand a few times and that really pushed out a ton of air. Remember, NEVER push the clutch with the slave cylinder out of the tranny as that will force the piston right out. Once you push the piston in by hand a few times and air stops coming out, reinstall it. Make sure that the piston/plunger is actually engaging the release fork (should have to hold the SS in place to get the bolts on while it tries to push itself back out). Then have a buddy get in the car and operate the clutch while you deal with the bleed screw on the SS.Leave a comment:
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I did this about 15 times. No go I'm gonna try the power bleeder and suck it throughLeave a comment:
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I have always pushed fluid into the slave bleeder from the bottom until it started going into the res.
Tighten the bleeder and then your done.
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OK I bought a new clutch master cylinder, now that I'm replacing it do I have to bleed my breaks all over again??Leave a comment:
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The most common symptom of a failed master cylinder is a pedal that goes to the floor when there are no leaks and the system has been bled.Leave a comment:
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Somebody did a write up on it here. Check the DIY thread for Clutch Slave bleeding.Leave a comment:
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Mtechnic- a friend of mine has a electric power bleeder that sucks the fluid through the system. If worst come to worst I will try that. Also how do you bench bleed the slave?
Jlevie- everything worked fine about a week ago. I come back bleed the breaks and now my clutch doesn't work, I think that's a little fishy. Also is there a way to tell if the master cly has gone bad?
Poorboyz- I will have to get down there and check it outLeave a comment:
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My clutch went out and it ended up being the 45° plastic elbow that goes from soft line into the clutch master cylinder. I couldn't see any fluid by looking but found fluid in between carpet insulation and firewall when I pulled carpet back. The piece I'm talking about is #7 on the realoem.com clutch control diagram.
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