Clutch replacement problems/removing tranny

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  • ST1G
    R3V OG
    • Oct 2012
    • 6689

    #1

    Clutch replacement problems/removing tranny

    So I'm in the middle of a clutch job. I'm trying to remove the tranny and am running into issues.

    I've broken all the torx on the bell housing except for the two that hold the starter and the one above it on the drivers side ( if you're looking at the transmission from the rear of the car)

    I'm not sure how to get to these, I can't even see the top torx. I'm thinking I need to pull the intake manifold, but I'm not sure.

    My other dilemma is the more I get into it the more things I find that I should replace. (Starter, o2, gaskets, bushings, mounts...ect. ) at what point do I have diminishing returns on a 400,000km motor and just pull the tranny and motor and swap it? I feel like I'm nearing that point. But I don't know.
  • NoSnowJustIce
    Advanced Member
    • Jul 2012
    • 169

    #2
    I loosen the engine mount bolts and tilt the engine/tranny back, giving access to the bolts with about 3ft of socket extensions. Seems to be a popular way to do it too.
    Also, a newer engine will still need refreshing. I say if yours is doing well, keep it going. Get the big items like the starter of r3v with fewer miles and hopefully a low price.

    Comment

    • ST1G
      R3V OG
      • Oct 2012
      • 6689

      #3
      That's a good idea. I think you're right, a new motor would still need lots of refreshing.

      I should pull the motor mounts, I'm not sure why I didn't think of that.

      Comment

      • AndrewBird
        The Mad Scientist
        • Oct 2003
        • 11892

        #4
        Dropping the back of the trans down helps. Disconnect the driveshaft and cross member and lower it down. Then use extensions to reach. Wobble extensions are a plus.

        Comment

        • Swanny
          R3VLimited
          • Mar 2012
          • 2834

          #5
          Clutch replacement problems/removing tranny

          Right on nitro...also lower the subframe a bit too to give some more wiggle room when you loosen everything up. An engine support bar is your best friend in this situation. Being able to raise and lower from both sides is quite nice.
          Swanny!
          SUCKERS.

          Comment

          • ST1G
            R3V OG
            • Oct 2012
            • 6689

            #6
            Drive shaft is out, the tranny is off the mounts and is resting on the support beam. I'll pull that out. I think I understand what needs to happen. I have lots of wobble extensions.

            Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it.

            Comment

            • jlevie
              R3V OG
              • Nov 2006
              • 13530

              #7
              It is not necessary to lower the subframe or mess with the motor mounts. Use an engine brace or hoist to lift the front of the engine until the cylinder head hits the firewall with the transmission unsupported so that it angles down. That will give you enough room between the transmission and the tunnel to get one hand past the bell housing to hold a wrench on the starter bolt nuts.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment

              • ST1G
                R3V OG
                • Oct 2012
                • 6689

                #8
                Clutch replacement problems/removing tranny

                Originally posted by jlevie
                It is not necessary to lower the subframe or mess with the motor mounts. Use an engine brace or hoist to lift the front of the engine until the cylinder head hits the firewall with the transmission unsupported so that it angles down. That will give you enough room between the transmission and the tunnel to get one hand past the bell housing to hold a wrench on the starter bolt nuts.

                I got it. You're right, I had to tilt the tranny by raising the motor. Thanks!

                Comment

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