Rear Tranny Seal???

[1990e30coupe]

Have a 1987 325e 5 speed coupe. The Tranny is leaking at the rear, and I am going to change the seal. Never dealt with tranny work, and where the driveline attaches is where to start.
I was wondering if its a spring loaded set up in these tranny's, meaning if I take the bolt off at the shaft (rear) do I have to be aware of anything?
Any info would help since I don't know what I am doing anymore, and what's funny is I have owned too many that shit like this makes me feel like a beginner. Which in this case I guess I am.

[JinormusJ]

Do not mess with that s***

Buy a seal from the dealer and take it to a shop that has the tools/expertise to do it right and warrantee the labor/parts

I ended up having to do it three times with 3 different seals before I swallowed my pride and took it to a local e30 shop


Seriously







Don't do it yourself

[AndrewBird]

I haven't actually done this myself, but it should be very straight forward. One nut to remove the output flange, then just pry out the old seal and press the new one in place. A socket or piece of pip slightly smaller than the OD of the seal can be used to install the seal with a hammer.

No springs, nothing scary. Not sure why you had problems JinormuJ.

Here is a step by step walk through:

https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/561en/index.htm

All the special tools really aren't needed. You will need a puller, but every other step can be done with basic tools.

[FLG]

Nope, simple as pie.

The hardest part is finding a thin socket for the output flange.

Also change the shifter seal while your there as well.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[JinormusJ]

Rear Tranny Seal???

No springs, nothing scary. Not sure why you had problems JinormusJ.

Maybe call it bad luck, or lack of skill, or improper procedure, but every seal I put in leaked. It was a nightmare for me until I finally gave up and took it to RyanGMW

It is straightforward though; you will need a thin-walled 32mm deep socket ( or you can buy a normal walled impact rated one and grind it down like I did). Once the lock plate and nut is if off, the flange pulls out easy and you can access the seal.

[Madhatter]

The output flange wears a ridge in it, so if you put another seal in and it runs in the groove, then it'll leak. Another sure way to ruin a seal is to put the flange in dry, that is, not to put any lube on the seal before hand.

It really is a pretty simple job. Sometimes the flange is a little stuck even after you remove the nut, a couple of taps with a mallet and it usually comes free.

It's just a case of pulling the old seal out and knocking a new one in. Use a soft drift/punch (or a piece of timber) to tap the new one back in. Use some rubber grease on the output flange, then refit.







Also pays to use a little loctite on the end of the shaft to make sure they nut is not going to move at all.

[1990e30coupe]

I haven't actually done this myself, but it should be very straight forward. One nut to remove the output flange, then just pry out the old seal and press the new one in place. A socket or piece of pip slightly smaller than the OD of the seal can be used to install the seal with a hammer.

No springs, nothing scary. Not sure why you had problems JinormuJ.

Here is a step by step walk through:

https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/561en/index.htm

All the special tools really aren't needed. You will need a puller, but every other step can be done with basic tools.

Thanks Man! I appreciate the link, looking through it is way better than looking through a Chilton's. I have been waiting for a link like this.
Couldn't thank you enough for the info.

[1990e30coupe]

Thanks Rev!

Sounds pretty simple! Just have to go buy a tool or two though.

Thank you everyone for the info, its greatly appreciated. I wouldn't be able to own E30's if it wasn't for being a member of such a great community.
Love this form.

[KIRIEIW]

All I have to say is, make sure it's not your shifter seal/ replace that at the same time

[Madhatter]

god damn it. Mine is leaking now :/

[AntiScope]

All I have to say is, make sure it's not your shifter seal/ replace that at the same time

this

[Cayoncrusier93]

Most time consuming part is removing all the crap to actually get to the seal, other than that its a piece of cake

[Poorboyz]

This job really depends if you have the trans on or off the car. On the car you could do the rear main fairly easy, the shifter seal is a PAIN in the ass while trans on the car. If you do decide to do trans I would recommend changing all 3 seals, front main, rear main and shifter seal. The shifter seal is pretty straight foraward but can be a bear cause you have to be real carefull as to not scar the shifter shaft while pulling seal out. The rear output is pretty easy. You will need a 30mm thin wall socket (I got mine at Sears) and you might have to heat up the nut to loosen the red loctite that is on there from factory. As others mentioned the output flange should slide out but it may need a little help with a rubber hammer if it gets stuck. The front is pretty easy as well. Just remove the 6 bolts that hold the seal cover on the trans, leave the input shaft sleeve bolted and use a rubber mallet to hit the sleeve side to side to break the green loctite or whatever that is loose.

Also as mentioned be sure to either put new seals a little forward or backwards from the previous location as it creates a groove on the shafts that will cause a leak if you put new seals in the same location.

I hope my explanation isn't too hard to follow....but you probably have already changed this since this thread is over 3 months old...lol

GL

[the imitator]

You shouldn't have to use lock tight on the input shaft bolt, there's a locking cap that you tap over the bolt with a socket, realoem has a part number, if you look at the g260/g265 they have cutouts on the drive flanges so you can pry it out.

Although I have used my g265 yet, I have replaced all three seals and have confidence in them. Using Dow 33 on the inner race, dow55 on the outer race, and tap it in deeper than the original seal sat; just like on a rear main seal.

That and simply not tapping the seal in far enough to begin with can also cause leaky issues.

[Steve L]

I need to replace the rear output seal on the Getrag transmission on my E30. I have started removing the bolts on the drive shaft at the front flex disc. A few years ago, I had my exhaust system and drive shaft out. So I've torn out my drive line before. If I have to remove my exhaust and front drive shaft to replace the seal, I'll do it. But I sure don't want to. Will I be able to replace the output seal without removing the drive shaft or exhaust?