Shifter Modification

[Bullhead]

I've been running one of these for 3 years or more(some of the sellers have them for $25, and they were resold on maXbimmer with good reviews)
As long as it is installed properly I didn't have any issues with it. Yes, it vibrates a little sometimes, and is "notchy", but I don't mind. Not sure how it would cause the carrier to become out of round though.

I think it's a smoking deal, and it looks good and the idea is sound in a perfect world, but we all know how that is. But if you have got that much time out of it I would say your gtg. If I were not a fabricator and didn't have metal laying around everywhere I would probably buy the cheaper one that comes with just the shifter lol.

I will be taking pics when I'm done and will offer these services to anyone who cannot undertake this on their own. I can already tell the shifter knob I am making right now will be sky high because it is billet and it takes some hours, but I may be able to ruff cut one and let the buyer hand sand it.

[Northern]

Good info, I do and do not like this shifter, let me explain. I like how it brings the actual pivot point up to keep interference at bay but I do not like how it is in fact a 2 collar design. With this shifter you would have the shifter carrier (which is a cast piece) then this would fit into the carrier, and then you would have the new shifter itself which would fit into the blue carrier in the shifter. I think over time you could wallow the factory carrier out or make it out of round, but that's just my 2 cents from experience with metal.

I've been running one of these for 3 years or more(some of the sellers have them for $25, and they were resold on maXbimmer with good reviews)
As long as it is installed properly I didn't have any issues with it. Yes, it vibrates a little sometimes, and is "notchy", but I don't mind. Not sure how it would cause the carrier to become out of round though.

[Northern]

You might want to remove the aluminum top and weld on a steel shaft to make a shifter with no rubber in it. They flex a lot stock.

ooh. I'm going to steal this idea for my floor mount setup.

[Bullhead]

Playing around with lengths is the best choice, find out what suits you best. I have a X5 shifter in my e30 currently and the bottom length is about as long as they come at over an inch but the interior height is even taller than stock e30.

The shifting effort is not very high but the throw is noticeably shorter than stock and my hand is closer to the steering wheel.

In my last e30 i made a shifter using an e21 lever (pretty tall) with about 1 1/4 inch bottom IIRC, pretty short throw but not too stubby in the interior. I liked that one.

You might want to remove the aluminum top and weld on a steel shaft to make a shifter with no rubber in it. They flex a lot stock.

Roger that, I already had a piece bent and ready to weld on lol. I am going to for a little bit taller inside because I am like you and like to have a taller shifter. I should be at around 1.125" right now so that may be the ticket, I have been measuring throw on the bench and will test it in the car this weekend when I get the tranny back in.

[Regnar75]

oh i know, i meant every person i have ever talked to has removed it and threw it in the trash

[LJ851]

Playing around with lengths is the best choice, find out what suits you best. I have a X5 shifter in my e30 currently and the bottom length is about as long as they come at over an inch but the interior height is even taller than stock e30.

The shifting effort is not very high but the throw is noticeably shorter than stock and my hand is closer to the steering wheel.

In my last e30 i made a shifter using an e21 lever (pretty tall) with about 1 1/4 inch bottom IIRC, pretty short throw but not too stubby in the interior. I liked that one.

You might want to remove the aluminum top and weld on a steel shaft to make a shifter with no rubber in it. They flex a lot stock.

[Bullhead]

Yep, you can trust just about anything LJ says. He actually knows his shit.

And going from 1/8" to 1/2" seems like it may be a lot. I don't really have any actual experience. It seems to me like the forward to back throw will be greatly reduced, but the left to right might actually be increased. Am I coo coo?

You are correct sir, but from my calculations it will still be less than the Z3 M shifter would be, and just to be more specific I am going for 1/2" total I am only adding 3/8" of an inch, think I may have coo coo'd on the earlier post lol.
Yeah I was coo coo, just looked over my notes again to make sure and I put add 1/2" in the post instead of 3/8" which is correct, lol glad I didn't go that far. I am actually going to just tack it up and test it there and I will make 3-4 inserts 1 shorter than the other 2 longer to see what feels best.

[Ether-D]

LJ you were dead on, the bottom section of the shifter is steel, and they have used aluminum for the upper portion attaching it with a stress type lock down.

Yep, you can trust just about anything LJ says. He actually knows his shit.

And going from 1/8" to 1/2" seems like it may be a lot. I don't really have any actual experience. It seems to me like the forward to back throw will be greatly reduced, but the left to right might actually be increased. Am I coo coo?

[Bullhead]

Not sure how long you are planning on extending the lower leg of the shifter, but if you go too long, you will hit the vibration damper on the driveshaft.

Some people will bend the selector rod to clear, but I feel that something like the blue piece of the cheap ebay kits would work better.

It attaches onto the shift carrier with a circlip, and raises the pivot point to prevent interference below.

Good info, I do and do not like this shifter, let me explain. I like how it brings the actual pivot point up to keep interference at bay but I do not like how it is in fact a 2 collar design. With this shifter you would have the shifter carrier (which is a cast piece) then this would fit into the carrier, and then you would have the new shifter itself which would fit into the blue carrier in the shifter. I think over time you could wallow the factory carrier out or make it out of round, but that's just my 2 cents from experience with metal.

[Bullhead]

No vibe damp, but I am only going to add 3/8" to the rod to make it 1/2" longer total between the ball and the lower pivot joint. Right now the distance is an 1/8" so this should improve it dramatically without being really long. Also LJ you were dead on, the bottom section of the shifter is steel, and they have used aluminum for the upper portion attaching it with a stress type lock down. If everything goes well I will swing it by Kadunza and let RobertK look it over and then I may offer this service on here with the reinforced selector rod as well. This would let you keep factory BMW parts but they would be a performance part. I like doing this because the OEM usually makes a quality part. Sometimes it gets hard to find that Z3 or goodness forbid an M3 at the pulla part so I think this may be desirable.

[Ether-D]

His is an early car, I think it has no vibe-damp.

[Regnar75]

...but if you go too long, you will hit the vibration damper on the driveshaft.

people still have the vibration damper on?

[Northern]

Not sure how long you are planning on extending the lower leg of the shifter, but if you go too long, you will hit the vibration damper on the driveshaft.

Some people will bend the selector rod to clear, but I feel that something like the blue piece of the cheap ebay kits would work better.

It attaches onto the shift carrier with a circlip, and raises the pivot point to prevent interference below.

[Bullhead]

I am also going to reinforce the selector rod, but not by much as this should be able to bend if something goes wrong so you don't stick the shift forks (like the guy who sold me my car did) lol.

[Bullhead]

You might find this helpful:

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=72458

Outstanding sir!!! that is just what I needed, this will further my progress. I will actually cut into my stock shifter tomorrow. I am also working on the shifter knob, which is going to be a pistol grip design, but will be smooth.