Can't get drive shaft out.

[j0000stin]

I'm in the process of pulling out my drive shaft. I got the bolts to the diff out, unbolted the csb mount but the bolts going from the drive shaft to the guibo is loose but isn't backing out. Any ideas or tricks to getting this out?

[Farwest92]

Loosen the clamping collar on the spline joint and collapse the shaft allowing removal.
The shaft will fold enough to drop out, so don't have your face under it.

[j0000stin]

Loosen the clamping collar on the spline joint and collapse the shaft allowing removal.
The shaft will fold enough to drop out, so don't have your face under it.

im trying to remove everything as one piece. but my main concern right now is that i can't get the bolts to the guibo out. The nuts were easy to remove. the bolts not so much. Are there bolts behind the harmonic balancer? when i was under the car i did not see any.

[dewme5]

3 bolts to the trans, 3 bolts to the drive shaft. The drive shaft may not want to collapse, if that's the case, pull the CSB, and Diff end of the shaft. That should give you all the leverage you need to pop the Guibo.

[j0000stin]

I don't knkw if anyone is actually reading what I'm saying or just responding to my thread title but I'm having a hard time getting the bolts to the guibo out. Yes, the drive shaft wants to collapse but it isn't going to go anywhere if it's still connected to the tranny.

[Eddie Haskell]

JStein- I understand your problem. Support the trans/engine and drop out the trans support. Support the engine /Trans so you don't screw your motor mounts if they are still good. This will make life a little easier for access. Your going to need to grind a socket or fab/bend a box end to hold the nut/head of the fastener. You can also go with a 4 1/2" cutting wheel and cut the head off. Be aware that you will need the rear tires on the ground to break the nuts loose with drive-line connected sometimes. The engine sometimes will not hold unless you use a impact. Once you get the Harmonic balancer off. Throw it as far away as you can. You don't need it. I would order some new lock nuts for the diff and a nut and bolt set for the Guibo end. Be aware there is two different size nut/bolt combinations for different size Guibo's. BTW index/mark the two pieces of your drive-shaft before you split the two pieces. The factory index marks wipe off when cleaning. The two piece drive-shaft is balanced as a pair. Buy a can of Kroil penetrant. Soak the victims overnight. The next morning the nuts will be laying on the floor. PB Blaster IMO smells like ass. Kroil is livable. While you have the Drive-shaft out. Check the U-joints for binding. If you detect any drag you will have problems in the future. Buy a Bentley manual if you don't have one. Follow the specs when reinstalling the drive-line. The centering guide if replacing needs to be set properly and the Guibo has a proper orientation spec. In essence align the drive-shaft centered left to right from Tranny,CSB to Diff. Buy new Trans mounts and the up and down alignment is majority good. Replace the CSB for sure if it's as old as the Guibo. When the Guibo is cracked the CSB takes a lot of abuse. Dont forget to pre-load the CSB on install. Don't buy URO crap for your drive-line. Buy Lemfordor or a little cheaper Febi. It will pay dividends in longevity if you put it back together correctly. The Harmonic balencer is a Bitch. Many aspiring Wadell Wilson's have dealt with this Albert Speer engineering marvel over the years.

The problem-

http://spece30.com/media/kunena/atta...tionDamper.jpg

[j0000stin]

JStein- I understand your problem. Support the trans/engine and drop out the trans support. Support the engine /Trans so you don't screw your motor mounts if they are still good. This will make life a little easier for access. Your going to need to grind a socket or fab/bend a box end to hold the nut/head of the fastener. You can also go with a 4 1/2" cutting wheel and cut the head off. Be aware that you will need the rear tires on the ground to break the nuts loose with drive-line connected sometimes. The engine sometimes will not hold unless you use a impact. Once you get the Harmonic balancer off. Throw it as far away as you can. You don't need it. I would order some new lock nuts for the diff and a nut and bolt set for the Guibo end. Be aware there is two different size nut/bolt combinations for different size Guibo's. BTW index/mark the two pieces of your drive-shaft before you split the two pieces. The factory index marks wipe off when cleaning. The two piece drive-shaft is balanced as a pair. Buy a can of Kroil penetrant. Soak the victims overnight. The next morning the nuts will be laying on the floor. PB Blaster IMO smells like ass. Kroil is livable. While you have the Drive-shaft out. Check the U-joints for binding. If you detect any drag you will have problems in the future. Buy a Bentley manual if you don't have one. Follow the specs when reinstalling the drive-line. The centering guide if replacing needs to be set properly and the Guibo has a proper orientation spec. In essence align the drive-shaft centered left to right from Tranny,CSB to Diff. Buy new Trans mounts and the up and down alignment is majority good. Replace the CSB for sure if it's as old as the Guibo. When the Guibo is cracked the CSB takes a lot of abuse. Dont forget to pre-load the CSB on install. Don't buy URO crap for your drive-line. Buy Lemfordor or a little cheaper Febi. It will pay dividends in longevity if you put it back together correctly. The Harmonic balencer is a Bitch. Many aspiring Wadell Wilson's have dealt with this Albert Speer engineering marvel over the years.

The problem-

http://spece30.com/media/kunena/atta...tionDamper.jpg

FINALLY GOT IT OFF! didnt have to separate it like everyone said to. loosened the clamping collar, wiggled that mother f**ker until the guibo started to back out a bit and took a crow bar to it.