Couple different shifter questions..

[HennaE30]

I have an assortment of questions, most of which are are regarding shift kits..

1. Has anyone used the Ireland Engineering Super Short Throw shift kit? Is it any good? How much is the reduction?

2. Has anyone used the IE DSSR? Does it have any fitment issues? Does it do as well at taking out the slop as say the AKG DSSR?

3. Garage Welt has their E30 SSK. Which gives you the option between an E60 545i, Z3 1.9, Z3 2.8 and Z3 3.0 shift levers. Which of these is the best? Is this better than the IE one?

I'll probably think of more questions but that's all for now. Thank you much guys.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

I have a 1.9 z3 arm and it's fantastic.

[SkiFree]

Look, I'm inherently bias because I worked on the prototyping for the IE bits so I'll keep my comments strictly informational. That being said, the IE setup is pretty dang new with a dozen or so in use, so I don't think you'll get much feedback yet. I also used to offer the standard oem levers as well.

1) Functionally the IE setup is different than the oem-lever in a couple ways. The shifter fulcrum is moved up (via the little billet riser cup) so it can run a longer length below (shortening the throw) without running into the driveshaft. As per the item listing, reduction is %50.

2) A DSSR is a DSSR in terms of functionality. Given how the end design is the same by definition, the slop reduction follows suit.

3) The differences between an OEM lever and the IE lever themselves
a)Pivot Ball, OEM:Plastic IE:Stainless Steel
b)Lower shifter bushing, OEM:non-replaceable plastic IE:replaceable sealed roller-bearings with stainless bushings
The oem lever does have some nice rubber insulation. IE lever trades that insulation for height adjustability.
The oem lever takes an oem-style press on knob. IE lever takes an oem-style knob or one threaded for 16x1.5

Honestly, up until the last year-ish I would have said the OEM lever is a great budget friendly choice. A z3 lever used to be $30! They've since more than doubled in price. That price increase is what served as the motivation behind the IE-shifter's production ("If they're charging that much, I'm sure I can make something nicer within the same price point"). The IE lever is geared to fill the niche for a quality (non-ebay/shotgun-style manufacturing) budget-friendly alternative to the oem levers. Don't get me wrong though, the OEM lever remains a nice option.

[HennaE30]

Couple different shifter questions..

Look, I'm inherently bias because I worked on the prototyping for the IE bits so I'll keep my comments strictly informational. That being said, the IE setup is pretty dang new with a dozen or so in use, so I don't think you'll get much feedback yet. I also used to offer the standard oem levers as well.

1) Functionally the IE setup is different than the oem-lever in a couple ways. The shifter fulcrum is moved up (via the little billet riser cup) so it can run a longer length below (shortening the throw) without running into the driveshaft. As per the item listing, reduction is %50.

2) A DSSR is a DSSR in terms of functionality. Given how the end design is the same by definition, the slop reduction follows suit.

3) The differences between an OEM lever and the IE lever themselves
a)Pivot Ball, OEM:Plastic IE:Stainless Steel
b)Lower shifter bushing, OEM:non-replaceable plastic IE:replaceable sealed roller-bearings with stainless bushings
The oem lever does have some nice rubber insulation. IE lever trades that insulation for height adjustability.
The oem lever takes an oem-style press on knob. IE lever takes an oem-style knob or one threaded for 16x1.5

Honestly, up until the last year-ish I would have said the OEM lever is a great budget friendly choice. A z3 lever used to be $30! They've since more than doubled in price. That price increase is what served as the motivation behind the IE-shifter's production ("If they're charging that much, I'm sure I can make something nicer within the same price point"). The IE lever is geared to fill the niche for a quality (non-ebay/shotgun-style manufacturing) budget-friendly alternative to the oem levers. Don't get me wrong though, the OEM lever remains a nice option.

Thank you for you concise response.

The only part that isn't making much sense is the billet cup, are you saying without the cup the bottom of the shift lever would hit the driveshaft due to the ball being higher in the lever?

In response to your DSSR statement, while that is true, some DSSRs fit better than others, therefore making the shifter tighter than others.

And I have a ZHP knob, so I'm not worried about that

[MR 325]

I haven't used any of the new IE shifter stuff yet but I definitely want to grabs their DSSR for my 323i. Possibly both cars. For the shifter, I've been using the E60 lately for a couple of builds and I really like it. The throw is nice and short but what I love most is the height. I have one of the Z4 levers in my M-Tech from back in the day and the damn thing is so short height-wise that I'm tired of it. The Z3 1.9 is a great choice for a mild upgrade too. It feels like it should have been what the E30 came with. Nice and smooth shifting with that one.

[Vincent Brick]

I wasn't aware of this shifter, I'm likely going to buy it solely for the fact that it uses standard threaded knobs, it will save me time over modifying an OEM shifter to accept a knob that I actually like.

[HennaE30]

So after conferring with my father (who has connections with IE) about this. He said it won't fit my car. Is this truth? Per their website it says you might have to kink the selector rod, is this the same with the DSSR? Just trying to make sure everything'll work before I throw my monies into it.

01/84 325e btw

[lcoleman]

I've been in cars with a DSSR, and I've never thought it made much difference.

My car came with a z4 3.0 lever, which is pretty aggressive. It was hard to shift, notchy, and you could just tell there was bad geometry. I'd rather have a longer, smoother throw so I went back to stock.

The expensive AKG/Bimmerworld race shifters are worth every penny. It's a world of difference when you change the entire mechanism. I'd do that, or just refresh the bushings/mounts and leave it alone.

Sheet metal shift consoles will always be shitty, even with brand-new bushings throughout.

[HennaE30]

I've been in cars with a DSSR, and I've never thought it made much difference.

My car came with a z4 3.0 lever, which is pretty aggressive. It was hard to shift, notchy, and you could just tell there was bad geometry. I'd rather have a longer, smoother throw so I went back to stock.

The expensive AKG/Bimmerworld race shifters are worth every penny. It's a world of difference when you change the entire mechanism. I'd do that, or just refresh the bushings/mounts and leave it alone.

Sheet metal shift consoles will always be shitty, even with brand-new bushings throughout.

I already have completely rebuilt the shifter with Pelicans shifter rebuild kit and I still have tons of slop (the shifter moves a good 2 inches while still in gear) while doing my motor and trans mounts I had my dad moved the shift lever and found the selector rod is the reason for the slop. That is the reason I am going with a DSSR.

I like the Bimmerworld solid race shifter (my dad has one for the spec E30 but has yet to put it in) but the issue I have with it is how tall it is. I am looking for something more of OEM height shifter. In an ideal world I'd like a short Bimmerworld shifter if that makes sense.

[SkiFree]

The expensive AKG/Bimmerworld race shifters are worth every penny. It's a world of difference when you change the entire mechanism. I'd do that, or just refresh the bushings/mounts and leave it alone.
.

See, that shifter design is great, but is only a good idea to use when switching to very stiff drivetrain mounts (delrin/umhw/aluminum). And then why go that route when you have the option of the even more amazing CAE shifter.

On a street hotrod using rubber or a softer urethane you should keep with a shifter that retains the stock shift support. Sure, its a touch less precise but you don't have to feel like a teenager rattling his teeth with solid bushings "because racecar for the street".

Didn't realize you had an early sheet metal support though. The shifter will still work but you would need to dremel some holes in the sides of the stock cup for the little allan head set screws (though honestly you wouldn't need to worry about it with an oem lever).

[lcoleman]

I already have completely rebuilt the shifter with Pelicans shifter rebuild kit and I still have tons of slop (the shifter moves a good 2 inches while still in gear) while doing my motor and trans mounts I had my dad moved the shift lever and found the selector rod is the reason for the slop. That is the reason I am going with a DSSR.

Power to you, but it won't help that much. You can take most of the "slop" out with those yellow washers.

See, that shifter design is great, but is only a good idea to use when switching to very stiff drivetrain mounts (delrin/umhw/aluminum).

That's true. It seems to be all-or-nothing if you want really precise shift feel.

[redsubdivisions]

Z3 1.9L is what I use. I love it. Not too short and the throw is perfect. As MR 325 stated, it feels that is what should have came with the car from the factory.

[Vincent Brick]

You can take most of the "slop" out with those yellow washers.

I did the full rebuild kit and have as many of those yellow washers as can fit on there and it is still the sloppiest shifter of any manual trans car I have owned. I also have questioned the effectiveness of DSSR at reducing slop, have been told in my instance its the result of a high-mile trans.

[SkiFree]

The DSSR does help, but only a small percentage. Unfortunately the marketing on the effectiveness of the DSSR is often "over-embellished".

[HennaE30]

So I have pretty much decided to go with the Z3 1.9 shifter, but my dad tells me that he doesnt think the shifter will work with the old style stamped shift plate. He said something with the bushing sits different. I dont think that is the case. What're your guys' experiences with this, and where can i find the "cheapest" Z3 1.9 kit?