Vibration Damper Removal

[ron k]

To you that have done this:

What did you replace the M10X52 knurled bolts that go through the damper and guibo with? I am guessing that the M10X50 hex heads will work and be perfect since that is what goes through the other 3 guibo holes. My damper is the later style that sits away from the guibo, and isn't fastened to the transmission output flange with studs.

Thanks in advance,

Ron
1989 325i coupe

[AdamF 88iS]

M10x50 would be fine. Make sure they are high grade (8.8 or 10.9) and use locking nuts.

[DJB]

Yes, either M10x50mm or M10x54mm.

The slightly longer bolts are likely to handle the other style of mounting the vibration damper, but will still clear the transmission output flange without the extra layer of metal.

Two of the three bolts on my car were 10.9 ... the other was different and unmarked.

[ron k]

Thank you all,

I figured the M10X50 would work since it is in the other 3 holes, Real OEM does not show a washer for those, do you guys recall a washer being used?

Ron

[smooth]

nope.
just use lock nuts (nylon insides, iirc).

[ron k]

Well, here I am with my drive shaft out trying to get the vibration damper off. Mine is the style with the VD on the driveshaft, not the trans. output flange. Anyway, there are three round headed studs holding the VD on. It looks like they should just come right out, but even with some pounding they aren't moving. Any help? More pounding?? or am I missing something?

Thanks,

Ron

[ron k]

Woo Hoo!

Got it off. I doused the bolts with PBlaster last night, heated them up this morning with the torch and rapped them a few times with the percussive maintenance tool. Shot the first one out the garage door and down the driveway into the street.

Cheers,

Ron