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DIY Clutch Replacement Howto:

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    DIY Clutch Replacement Howto:

    After just finishing a clutch job on a friends 325e, I decided to dump this editorial out there.

    Doing your own clutch:

    1. Memorize every curse word you have. All of them. Make sure you can belt out at least 6 in a quick but non-humorous succession.

    2. Get some band aids. Big ones. Learn how to differentiate between a "Needs Stitches" bleeder and the more serious "die before you can summon help" injury. You should work with a package of these bandaids in your mouth for instant action.

    3. What year BMW do you have? If it was made between 1870 and 2010, I recommend you take this to a shop to have it done. These model years indicate extreme difficulty.

    4. You can never have too many friends help you with this job. Preferably, you should act in a supervisorial role consisting mostly of supplying beer and encouragement.

    5. Budget $2-300 for parts and $4-500 for tools. You know, those tools you should already own like a tranny jack, clutch alignment stick, or a pilot bearing puller?

    6. Have a catchers mask with safety goggles ready for when you unbolt the a)exhaust, b) driveshaft,c)transmission,d)pressure plate. All of these will hit you in the face...even if you are are just "supervising".

    7) You forgot a bolt. I don't care where you are at in this job, you forgot a bolt. A strange bolt, in a strange place.

    8) In the same boat, star head bolts always make a snapping noise when you are working on them. This snapping noise is either a)the bolt coming lose,b)The head popping off,c)one of the 16 universal joints you needed to get there grenading.

    q) Humorous non-sequential bullet item.

    10) If your guibo isn't shredded, it will be. Just order a new one. Add it to the order for the slave cylinder you didn't think you needed, as well as the new exhaust hangers and the new radiator that you damaged in anger.

    11) Changing a clutch is an NC17 endeavour unless you are just supervising. Then, you can use it to survey your children's vocabulary and emergency medical skills. Beer and encouragement are still recommended, and it is less likely that your 16 year old will burn your clutch out again.

    12) The order of recalcitrant fastener removal is as follows: The wrench/socket that should have worked, Vice Grips, Bolt Outs, Drill, Hack Saw, Det Cord. Be aware that Det Cord may scratch your paint.

    When you are done, it's time to move on to other fun and easy tasks like painting your car! Yup, dodging all of the poisonous chemicals and costly mistakes you can make in bodywork will seem like a paradise compared to EVERY SINGLE HEAVY ASSEMBLY UNDER A CAR SMASHING YOU IN THE FACE.

    Sorry if I mis-spelled anything...my glasses are broken.

    #2
    :rofl:
    Originally posted by 325Projectz
    don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
    :nice:

    Comment


      #3
      :):p:D:drink:

      That's all true! Next time - the shop is going to do mine! :)
      '89 "is" = M technic II build mode.

      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        I think this should be a sticky.

        Comment


          #5
          its not that bad... you just gotta know to not be right under anything when you unbolt it.
          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

          Originally posted by TimKninja
          Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

          Comment


            #6
            LMAO...Thats awesome dude.

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              #7
              Sorry...now that my glasses are fixed I can see that maybe I was too harsh...However, I was smacked in the face one too many times and in manners I didn't think possible. Like the exhaust.

              It had a spring load towards the direction I was that was really strong. It didn't fall down...it SPRUNTed towards the center of the car and smashed me in the face like a baseball bat, even though I wasn't under it and had an arm on the thing to stop it from doing that. Apparently it had been 'repaired' previously. Ow.

              And the drive shaft wacked me in the head when somebody walked by and decided to give a wheel a spin while I was under there. I did have some fun with that one though. I started screaming like I was dying and yelled "Oh God Help!!!!"

              Comment


                #8
                Jesus, fuck it i'm taking mine to a shop
                Who doesn't love a little BBQ?
                Griot's Garage at a Deep Discount

                Comment


                  #9
                  Well it could be worse, you could have gotten hit by the diff. That would leave a mark. :mrgreen:

                  The worst that happened to me was getting a faceful of sand and salt when I unbolted the heat shield.

                  Originally posted by whysimon
                  WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If I could afford it a Shop would do EVERYTHING.
                    :: PNW Crew ::
                    '87 325 4dr, '74 2002

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by backtrail69 View Post
                      If I could afford it a Shop would do EVERYTHING.
                      Nah, I'd still do the EASY EASY shit like changing the oil and sparkplugs. Just so I get that feeling of satisfaction of a job well done, after around 20 minutes of work, and tell the guys, yeah, I worked on my car this weekend.

                      Originally posted by whysimon
                      WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I had my own nice shop setup in a garage...wife took it when she became ex-wife. Now I have a 1 car garage that is way too small.

                        A lift and air tools make this job look easy. It's doable, it just sucks. I mean gas powered shop vac sucks. Turbo inlet sucks.

                        And there is always another bolt. In the worst place. It's like the tranny/engine mate-up was designed by a Nazi who knew they were about to catch up with him so he made a spiteful design.

                        "Ach, Gerade ein weiterer Schraubbolzen!"

                        Scheiße.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          all true

                          trying to pull my transmission out was complete hell. every time i'd break one of the star bolts loose, my hand would smash into the rusted heatshield on my exhaust and bloody my knuckles just before sprinkling rust flakes in my eyes. then after 10 minutes of crying like a baby, i'd get back under the car and find out i had only rounded off the star bolt which i could neither see nor feel with my hand. pulling the engine was easier.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            On a more serious note:

                            Here are some serious tips:

                            1. Make sure when you drop the tail of the transmission, you don't pinch a bunch of cables/wires at the firewall. It will drop more if you don't.

                            2. Make certain you are using the PERFECTLY sized and proper star head socket. Also make sure you have hammered it onto the head of the bolt. You almost can't strip a star head if the socket is all the way on there.

                            3. Put a piece of cardboard over your rusty sharp edged exhaust and tape it there. Really helps.

                            4. Use impact rated universal joints, not the normal ones. The impact ones work a lot better, IMHO.

                            5. You must remove the starter bolts to get the tranny out.

                            6. Be very aware of the little bolt that goes to the shield on some models. This bolt will stop you dead. It's on the passenger side rear of the transmission bellhousing. 10mm.

                            7. Cut a notch in a small section of 2x4 that coincides with the casted in line on the bottom of the engine side of your transmission. Use this 2x4 between your jack and transmission to make a very good transmission cradle. This will greatly assist your transmission remaining in the upright position when you lower it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I felt the same way as you after the first time I replaced my clutch.
                              Trust me, it gets easier the more you do it. It also helps when you have access to a lift.

                              A little over two years ago I replaced my clutch and it was the largest pain in the ass I have ever dealt with. About a month ago my tranny decided to not let go of reverse, so I had to replace it.
                              I was able to drop the tranny, pull the clutch and balance my flywheel all in an afternoon. (The clutch disc still had the logo and part number printed on the face, so I didn't hesitate to reuse it after bolting the flywheel back on). The next day it took a couple hours to put everything back together and get the car running again. I'd say the biggest pain in the ass was bolting the starter back on.
                              *note- I did everything myself with no helpers.

                              -Erik

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