2nd gear vibration

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  • accident
    replied
    Originally posted by kencopperwheat
    I'm having this same issue now. Is it easy to tell if the rubber mount of the csb has failed?

    What should I be looking for? I'll probably just end up putting in a whole new driveshaft assembly.
    The rubber around the bearing itself will usually be shredded or at least torn if this is the case. I cant remember if the CSB is under one of the underbody pieces or not, but you may be able to see it through a space in between them if it is.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    I'm having this same issue now. Is it easy to tell if the rubber mount of the csb has failed?

    What should I be looking for? I'll probably just end up putting in a whole new driveshaft assembly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kilomph
    replied
    Good point, guess it's just tougher in NJ then the rest of the country. I've seen 2 E30s out of the 3 yards that I've been too, all in very rough shape and completely stripped.

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by Kilomph
    Why do people always suggest junkyard? Wouldn't they be really close to failure? Especially since the car was... junked?
    Because if you are a good junkyard hunter, you can find excellent condition parts cheap.

    Some people spend thousands on their car just to finally smack it into a wall and die...then the car goes to the 'yard....then someone finds the good goodies, cheap!

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  • Kilomph
    replied
    Originally posted by abepark
    before you replace the CSB OR DS check your guibo bolts, I was missing one and that same thing happened to me I got a bad vibration in second gear around 2500 rpm
    Just installed it, 8.8 guibo bolts were torqued to 40 ft/lbs.

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  • abepark
    replied
    before you replace the CSB OR DS check your guibo bolts, I was missing one and that same thing happened to me I got a bad vibration in second gear around 2500 rpm

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  • jlevie
    replied
    You dont need to replace the driveshaft to replace the CSB...
    A failure of the rubber mount of the CSB is almost always caused by binding u-joints in the driveshaft. You can replace just the CSB for temporary relief, but the new CSB will have a short life unless you also replace the drive shaft.

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  • Kilomph
    replied
    Originally posted by accident
    You dont need to replace the driveshaft to replace the CSB...
    Are you replying to me? I know that you don't need to replace the driveshaft, but after doing what I've done and plan on doing what else is there left? Diff? Doubt it, only has 170k and doesn't make a sound. The DS I'm using has unknown mileage, but feels tight.

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  • accident
    replied
    You dont need to replace the driveshaft to replace the CSB...

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  • Kilomph
    replied
    Why do people always suggest junkyard? Wouldn't they be really close to failure? Especially since the car was... junked?

    I'm in the same boat. Just replaced my CSB after a strong vibration started occurring at the 2500-3k range (happens in all gears, at all speeds, but mostly under load, especially up-hill). That god rid of about 80% of the vibration, but under heavy load at 2500 it still vibs/thumps a bit, but not nearly as badly. One thing I noticed was motor mounts looked tired, the passenger side one actually looked like it started sheering at the top (ordered a new set from E30 Racer, just waiting for them), so that could also be the cause of the vibration. Tranny mounts are bimmerworld hard rubber, great condition.

    Another thing that I noticed while the car was on jack stands was that my driver side rear jack point doesn't settle onto the jack stand, it just hangs about 1 inch in the air. While I was pre-loading the CSB I was staring down the length of my DS and it looked as though it was cocked off to one side, it looked like a good 5° off (very well could have been the poor lighting at the time, and the fact that I hadn't eatin in a good 10 hours). It also looked like the DS was very slightly pulling to the driver side. My driver side door is very hard to open once on jack stands. My carfax doesn't come up with any accident reports, and I'm pretty sure all the body panels are original. I'm considering driving the front end up on ramps (although the exhaust would be nearly impossible to deal with) and preloading while the rear wheels are loaded up. If that doesn't work I'm going to have to order a rebuilt drive shaft, which really effing sucks.

    I should also get my rear wheels balanced, got my front ones done before a 500 mile round trip and apparently they were way off. NEVER ENDS!
    Last edited by Kilomph; 11-22-2008, 07:12 AM.

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  • 1dollae30
    replied
    more info it only es it when the car has warmed up i just drove it for the first time ina month and couldnt feel at first but as it got warmer u could feel it and it got stronger as it got warmer

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  • e30s52
    replied
    on here or you could buy a new one really expensive though. just check to see if you can find one in a junk yard

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  • 1dollae30
    replied
    also thanks for replaying i actaully saved up some cash and instaed of using for the e30 i just deciced to get a newer car but i hav some cash again and i would like to get my e30 back on the road again

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  • 1dollae30
    replied
    wheres the best place to get a driveshaft

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  • jlevie
    replied
    Check the CSB for a failed rubber mount and the guibo. If the CSB's mount has failed, you need a replacement driveshaft and CSB.

    Leave a comment:

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