I stared at the stock oil housing for a long time, but didn't notice anything besides the anti-drain-back valve, which is held closed mechanically by the filter itself. If you think about it, there would need to be a third line running back to the pan, and the stock system doesn't have that. Another thought is that the oil pump is very high-volume, and the Canton filter doesn't have sufficient flow capacity (after all, the stock filter is something you'd find on a diesel pickup). But it *is* a racing oil filter, often found in conjunction with blue-printed, high-volume pumps. Dunno.
If you're using the 5-speed, then the same driveshaft used in an S52/ZF swap would work. I believe that is an e36 96+ 328i assembly. It's been a while, so I can't remember if we used an e30 center bearing, or the entire assembly from a 328i. Our engine is placed such that the rear facing coolant manifold nipple is within 1/4" of the firewall.
-Bruce
Exhausting work
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I wonder if there is any type of pressure relief valve in the original oil filter housing? Long shot, but without the housing, it might cause the high pressure? Dunno.. throwin' darts at a board here. Also, what was your driveshaft solution? That's one thing I've not given a lot of thought to... suggestions?
GareyLeave a comment:
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We also used 18-gauge mild steel for our tubing, which wouldn't be recommended for a street car. You should be able to get the cats/x-pipe in there without compromising too much ground clearance. In our car, the exhaust doesn't break the plane of the front sway-bar.
The donor engine has been stripped down a bit, and is in the process of being cleaned, after installing a new front main seal. Old engine is still in the car, out of harms way while we prep the "new" one. I hope to have everything swapped over, and the engine reinstalled later this week.
I'm really bugged about the erratic high oil pressure. Lots of theories, but no smoking gun yet. We'll be checking every last bit of plumbing we added to the system, for sure.
I picked up a used Dinan M60 performance chip a couple of weeks ago on CL. Can anyone speak from experience about their HP claims?
-BruceLeave a comment:
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Looks nice Bruce...looks like the ground clearance is pretty good too, especially for a track car. Unfortunately, I have a bunch more stuff to fit up under there on mine, but I'm confident I can get it all to work and keep the ground clearance figure as large as possible. 2 cats, 1 x-pipe and 2 mufflers, all before the rear subframe... I have a plan and it should look pretty sweet and sound even better... Ever get the oil pressure bug worked out? Just curious...
GareyLeave a comment:
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Putting a cooler in would be straightforward. We'll see if the vehicle needs it, as I have an oil-temp sensor plumbed in immediately after the oil comes out of the pump. The Canton oil filter is an aluminum unit, and is mounted in an area with reasonable air-exchange. I expect it to provide a bit of passive cooling. To the extent I can keep weight out of the nose of the vehicle, and limit the number of plumbing interfaces, that's a good thing.
-BruceLeave a comment:
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Thanks bmwmech1
BruceBe, is their any reason you didnt add a cooler when you did the filter setup? looks like it would be simple from that pointLeave a comment:
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P/N for the X5 plate is 11 42 1 435 096
DD refers to the shape of the shaft, in this case, both ends are shaped like a D
GareyLeave a comment:
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Do you happen to have the part # for the x5 oil plate adapter thing, I can't find the number on realoem?
And about the steering setup you have what do you mean by DD, sorry if I just missed it somewhereLeave a comment:
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Sorry - I didn't get a photo before we put them in. Based on what I've seen out there, the X5 manifolds seem to be the best starting point. The driver's side is 4-into-1, and the pass side is 2-into-1 (front 2 cylinders get their own primary; rear 2 cylinders get their own primary; both primaries merge before a single flange).
-BruceLeave a comment:
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Yep - U-joints are Flaming River. They have the correct 54-spline parts (part # FR1963). Shaft is a solid DD piece - they can be found on Amazon. Just take your old coupler, and simply cut the DD piece to create the correct overall length. For the subframe spacer crowd, don't forget to account for additional length.
Nothing special on the clutch throw-out bearing - I'm using the original slave cylinder and clutch fork stuff.
Exhaust will remain dual throughout.
I picked up all of the Parker adapter fittings for the PS pump/rack today, but one 90-degree needs to be swapped out for a straight fitting. After a bit of hand-wringing to determine the mounting location, I installed the remote (Canton) oil filter.
-BruceLeave a comment:
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I guess nobody read my first reply
It is Flaming River stuff... Bruce and I had a conversation about it a while back. They have the correct metric splined stuff for our application. It's cheaper than the Vorshlag piece(sorry Terry) and their stuff is top-notch...
GareyLeave a comment:

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