E30 M3 S62 Build - Loads of queries about 4x4 drivtrains

[ScHpAnKy]

wait, awd v8? count me in!

[The Dark Side of Will]

Will, can u talk me through your steering rack solution again? I think it is going to be very tricky to overcome this. Custom subframe tricky...

Tricky but doable.
When I implement the rack mod, I'll post pics.
That will probably be soon, as time is scarce right now, and that shouldn't take as much time as designing the trans/bellhousing adapter.

Anyway, need to disassemble the rack and take the casting at the left end of the rack. Machine off the stock mounting lug and use a clamp like this: http://compare.ebay.com/like/200572010086

That clamp will probably have to be custom made. That clamp will fit the machined outer diameter where you machined off the original mounting lug. This will allow you to rotate the spool valve closer to vertical to clear the front diff.

[slammin.e28]

wait, awd v8? count me in!

Not just any v8....S62.

This is epic. So glad to see it coming along! I admit, I was skeptical at first, but you have made some awesome progress!

Keep 'em coming!

[Turk]

Hah, dont let get of that skepticism yet. Long way to go still!!!

anyhoo, today:






I cant explain how tight it is around the diff. Still have no driveshaft yet, and when i do i dont think the exhaust will fit without a nice big hole in the footwell...

I have to buy some 7 - 8mm plate to start making the engine arms.

[dirty30]

I admit, I was skeptical at first, but you have made some awesome progress!

X2 My god is this going to be awesome!

[Vtec?lol]

I still can't fathom this.
A 400hp NA s62 V8 in an AWD e30.... This will end up being the best build in the history of e30 builds.

[CorvallisBMW]

My head is going to explode in a bloody shower of awesome and unfathomable...

[Turk]

Some progress...

Decided to make engine mounts that mount straight to the chassis rail as the engine will just not fit around the subframe.

So I am thinning out the inner section of the subframe, A LOT... and making up a complete bolt on section to restrengthen in the front. Once I have it back I will put some pix up.

So onto the engine mounts. The plan is to get some decent poly bushes and have it pressed into some tube which will make up the engine mount. I was planning on using a high tensile m12 or m14 bolt.

So I picked up some off cuts ect. ALL for £5 !! bargain! and started chopping!






My welding is getting better i think...

[Turk]

So the engine wont fit. both the diff and the output shaft foul the subframe.

so I slimmed the subrame down and reenforced it.






But that didnt quite do it as the drive line of the front shafts got in the way of the main wishbones' ball jointed bar support webbing on the subframe. And seeing as that HAS to stay the engine as to back further.

so...


Unfortunately there is a bit more to be cut out too. The wiring on the back of the block needs to be diverted away along with the plastic housing as it takes up around an inch of space. and the steering column needs to be moved over a couple of inches. This will change the steering wheel flatness slightly. ie it the right side of the steering wheel will be a little nearer than the left.

Every cloud has a silver lining. The engine being further back means better handling, possible space for a viscous fan, and with the steering moved i might have room for the exhaust which was always going to be an issue.

[Turk]

Can someone advise me on what the best bearing hub swap is for 5 stud wheels?

I will be using the x5 front drive shafts so the splines must match.

I seem to remember reading about the 525ix one having the best offset.

much apreciated

[Turk]

This is how tight the clearance between the diff, steering knuckle, and subrame is. Basically none! I going to try and shrink the size of the steering rack banjos. if that doesnt work the rack may have to be converted to manual.





The only other thing that is an issue is the x5 drive shaft. The outer base fouls the subrame and the underside of the chassis.

Engine has to go lower and further back still!




One complete fuel line, will run from the 'vee' through the bulkhead straight to the pump with no breaks.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I was planning to machine off the mount boss on the left end of the rack and use a shaft collar to rotate the pinion closer to vertical. Will that work in your installation?

Are you sure you have the crossmember in the correct location?

[Turk]

The rack wont rotate any higher without raising the engine a couple of inches. Also depends which rack you are using. I have an e30 m3 one as its slimmer then most other i tried. Manual racks are slim but the knuckle is too near the centre and fouls everything.

But yes machining anything down will help!

The cross member is exactly where an IX subframe is. Hapily the wishbones etcs all bolt up as they should :D

Its also worth mentioning I have moved the steering column right over to the chassis leg too.

[slammin.e28]

All this makes me feel bad not getting my engine just in the car. Ugh.

[The Dark Side of Will]

This is how tight the clearance between the diff, steering knuckle, and subrame is. Basically none! I going to try and shrink the size of the steering rack banjos. if that doesnt work the rack may have to be converted to manual.

The iX bodies have saddles in the frame rails to clear the CV joints. The RWD bodies do not have these saddles. If your engine is already about as low in the body as it can go, don't try to make it any lower... just carve the frame rails a little more for clearance to the inner CV's.

Also, not sure you're picking up what I'm putting down regarding the steering rack. What I want to do would rotate the entire rack assembly around the axis of the rack... it wouldn't get any higher, so no accommodation of engine position would have to be made... The spool valve would just be rotated closer to vertical, so that it would fit between the front diff and the left mount tower.

That's on my mockup with the iX rack. If you're set on using the M3 rack, I don't think I can help you.