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SBF 5.0 swap -- clutch throw

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    SBF 5.0 swap -- clutch throw

    I am using the wilwood clutch pedal/MC/pull slave setup rec. by e30v8. I have bled the system multiple times, but I still am seeing less than an inch of clutch fork throw even with zero free play (using a tiny bit of preload).

    Any suggestions for making this setup work better? How many are running this setup happily? If you have pics of your setup or video of your slave cylinder in action that might be helpful. I didn't think of doing the same until I was hours away.

    Has anyone tried a different MC or slave? I have pieces for a cable clutch... Any value to this route? I think I've only read one example of this being used.

    This is my last step to getting it out a driving. I really don't want to tear everything out to go a different direction but as is it won't be drivable.

    Thanks!

    BTW, the car:
    87 325e
    5.0 with WC T5
    Centerforce clutch

    #2
    You need a larger diameter master cylinder. Find out what diameter the slave cylinder is and you can calculate how much larger you need to go. It would also help determining what diameter the factory master cylinder is for that particular trans also. For example a 3/4 clutch master feeding a 3/4 clutch slave would yield a 1:1 travel ratio, meaning if you pushed the pedal and pushed the master cylinder in 1/2 inch, the rod on the slave would extend 1/2 inch.

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      #3
      If you did end up buying the pedal/mc/slave kit that e30v8 suggested:

      contact funfgan

      I'm pretty sure he used that setup on his car.

      Also, how's the pedal feel? Did you try bench bleeding the master before the install?

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        #4
        I am using the e30v8.com recommended 3/4" bore MC and 0.875" bore slave cylinder with a stated 1.38" throw (I am getting <1"). The slave cylinder documentation recommends a MC with a 3/4" bore, too.

        I have bleed the snot out of it on the car. However, I did not bench bleed the unit. Do you have an example procedure for doing this properly?

        Pedal feel is perhaps a little light.

        Comment


          #5
          Forgot that the pedal, MC, and slave are a "matched set."

          disc brakes, big brakes, bbk, brake conversion kit, bolt on brake kits, calipers, pads, pedal assembly, rotors, dynalite, dynapro, hats, hubs, line kits, master cylinders, pads, polymatrix, racing, hats, brake lines, superlite, d52


          I have an email in to Wilwood to try and understand how a slave with a larger bore (0.875") than the Master (0.75") is going to travel a similar distance when the pedal is depressed (master has a 1.4" travel, slave has a 1.38" travel).

          One other concern is the e30v8.com recommendation is the 36" Longacre hydraulic line kit to hook up the slave and clutch. The length is excessive and creates a loop to take up the slack. Besides being excessive, is this likely to create problems with trapping air?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by dirty30 View Post
            You need a larger diameter master cylinder. Find out what diameter the slave cylinder is and you can calculate how much larger you need to go. It would also help determining what diameter the factory master cylinder is for that particular trans also. For example a 3/4 clutch master feeding a 3/4 clutch slave would yield a 1:1 travel ratio, meaning if you pushed the pedal and pushed the master cylinder in 1/2 inch, the rod on the slave would extend 1/2 inch.
            I am also confused by the recommendation of a smaller bore MC.

            The original setup was a cable clutch (Mustang).

            Comment


              #7


              Sometimes you've gotta bench bleed to get ALL the air out - this may not be your case, but it might help.

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                #8
                i have been having a similar issue but i believe my issue came from the slave failing

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