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[Nick's e30]

Nah..

[jalopi]

Garagistic makes one.

Really pisses me off how e30v8 recommended that wilwood kit... absolute shit setup.

One thing I've been considering doing is taking the pedal off of my car and going to a welding shop to see if they can cut it into three angled sections to move the pedal over a bit more. Know what I mean?

[Madhatter]

really happy with my tilton 600 series pedals, spacing is pretty good.

[garagistic]

Hey all,
Just finished building my 5.0 e30, and man these pedals are close!

I did the stock 5.0 accelerator, wildwood clutch (which sucks hardcore, epic amounts of modification to that whole kit required for this swap), and my stock brake pedal.

Any recommendations on an aftermarket pedal box? If all else fails I'm just gonna build my own.

As mentioned we make a conversion bracket for wilwood/tilton setup. Got them in stock and ready to ship too:

http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/bmw-e30-parts/bmw-motor-swap/e30-boosterless-brake-setup

Full instructions are here:

http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=e30-brake-booster-delete-boosterless-brake-bracket-using-wilwood-tilton-pedals

[garagistic]

Thanks for the info. Can I run a stock brake pedal with this box? And does this do anything for the accelerator pedal mounting?

Where does this put the master cylinder clutch reservoir? Under the dash? I see that in the first pic but I'm not sure how the mechanics there would work...

That whole ghetto "drill and fill" on the steering column isn't doing it for me.

Sorry cant run the stock brake pedal. It requires the wilwood or tilton reverse mount pedal assembly that way the master cylinders (front brake, rear brake and clutch) are under the dash. As far as working on it, its not really an issue because the reservoirs are still mounted in the engine bay. Stock gas pedal can be retained. Full instructions on our website. Here is a picture showing the reservoirs:



and another:

[garagistic]

More pictures:

[jalopi]

Lol, unfortunately he already ditched his stock gas pedal.

Also, I do have a welder... I just don't feel like practicing welding aluminum with something so important (or thick). With my luck I'd be so worried about getting the aluminum too hot and not penetrate enough, leading to pedal breakage down the road...

I wouldn't say the wilwood product is shit though... seems solid to me so far. It's just not right for the application... which is e30v8's fault.

Another note: keep your eye out in the v8 section - someone found 5.0 turbo manifolds that dump forward and go back... i'll have to see what the op ends up doing before I really look into it, but yes, the front exhaust is killing me.

[Madhatter]

You don't weld on the pedal anyway, only welding even on factory ones is up the top where it pivots.

here is mine.

[jalopi]

We're talking about cutting the wilwood pedal into three pieces at angles so that when put back together, you've moved the spot where your foot goes over by an inch or so. I'd kill for your pedal spacing.... the distance between the pads of my clutch and brake pedals is about 5-10mm.

Not the best picture, but this is all i can find right now (the clutch pedal is half covered by the door dinger thing):

[jalopi]

Unfortunately I don't think those garagistic brackets were made with power brakes in mind... I guess you might be able to rig something up, but for the time and effort needed I'd skip that route and do a floor mounted clutch pedal or something.

As for the slave cylinder, I did end up having one fail on me.. but that was more so installer error for making a shit mount. Aside from that though, if you read into it many people have had problems with those pull style cylinders... apparently some people use tacoma push slaves by building a bracket and mounting it on the bellhousing. Might end up looking into that if/when the wilwood pull slave fails.

[Madhatter]

You DON'T weld on pedals, period. Especially if it is for a manual setup, it is a weak point and is just stupid. Especially since you would essentially be welding a lap joint, or introducing a bend in what should be an otherwise straight lever. If you need extra space, you don't weld on the pedal at all, you alter your pedal box and space the pedals further apart. Massive brakes also have a new pedal set developed, have a look into them as an alternative.

If the space between the pedals is not large enough, you need to make your own pedal box and space the pedals out accordingly as im pretty sure both the tilton and wilwood boxes are similar dimensions. However, it looks like you just used an aftermarket clutch pedal? why didn't you mount it further to the left? that's not a fault of wilwood or anyone else. You should have realised instantly they were too close together even if someone else told you it would work.

Also, don't even bother with a floor mount setup. 1) the floor is soft and needs reinforcing to stop the flex, 2) it shifts the drivers seat back about 3-4 inches, so you'll need to alter the mounts if you still want a range of seat travel.

[garagistic]

To clear some confusion:

The pedal assembly bracket we sell to run wilwood/tilton pedals does not conflict with the gas pedal at all. Its a completely separate unit so it doesn't matter what pedal you are using.

Thats correct. The setup will not be boosted using a brake booster. Instead the bore size on the cylinders are compensated for (smaller) that way the effort is manageable and it wont require hulk leg strength to stop the car. 5/8 bores are the preferred bore for the brakes. 3/4 for the clutch. With those sizes the brakes are firm but extremely manageable.

[jalopi]

Chill bro. Clearly, you either haven't done much reading on 302 swaps into these cars - or - you haven't done/seen one yourself. Also, do read thoroughly / pay attention before you call people stupid... we're talking about modifying a clutch pedal here. Even if we were talking about a brake pedal, if a competent welder did the job there wouldn't be a problem.

wilwood isn't the problem, e30v8's 'do it the cheapest way possible' is

plenty of factory pedals have a curve in them

there are complications with mounting a firewall-mounted pedal on a left hand drive car

[Madhatter]

yeah, because a half arsed 302 swap is so different than my LS1 right?

I said welding on pedals is stupid. Pedals with curves in them are either cast like that or formed from pressed metal, they aren't welded to produce the curve, the reason being the weld introduces a weak point. Like I said, the pedal isnt the problem, the person installing it is. Why was it mounted so close to the brake pedal in the first place? what is physically in the way that a mount couldn't be designed that shifted it an inch to the left? There are a bunch of other alternatives that could be worked before you cut into a pedal and weld it.

There are numerous examples of LHD E30's with pedal boxes in place. What difference will a LHD one make in a 302 setup when the result means there is nothing on the engine side of the firewall? It's not like components will get in the way, all the cylinders are inside and you can literally mount your remote reservoirs where you choose.

[jalopi]

1. Stop being a dick. You don't know what you're talking about.

2. On left hand drive cars you literally can't mount the firewall-mounted pedal any further to the left. That's where the wiring harness / massive hole for the wiring harness grommet is on our cars... something you have the luxury of not having to deal with. There's a reason why 302 guys who followed e30v8's instructions bitch and complain about the distance between the pedal pads.

3. You're right. There are many e30's with pedal boxes. Unfortunately, that option wasn't available / in the limelight when I started my project three years ago. There's a lot more information on the internet about the swap now.

Be paranoid about modifying and welding a pedal on your own car... this is our problem.



Anyway Nick, back to trying to help you with your car...

The way I see it, we really only have two options. Three if you include making your own pedal, which sounds like a real motherfucker.

1. Cut the pad off the clutch pedal and have a reputable welder weld the pad back on offset to the left. Or i guess if you wanted to save money, you could drill holes in the pad & pedal, then tap the pedal so you could bolt the pad on offset to the left.

2. Have a reputable welder cut and weld the pedal so that the pad moves over .5-1". Like I said, reputable... we are talking about aluminum here. Explain what it's for... the welder should be able to tell you if he's confident that it won't break.

Just remember that not a lot of force is going through that clutch pedal... also, that people are confident enough in welding aluminum that they weld on planes. Much more of a safety concern there than on a clutch pedal IMO. Go off of what a professional welder tells you is safe and what isn't.