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*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide
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Originally posted by jalopi View PostSome good info, yeah... unfortunately I've been pretty lazy about updating the front page for a while now.
IMO here's some majorly important things:
1. Budget for a Tilton TOB. It's more expensive than the other TOBs out there, but from what I've read the Tilton unit is the only one that uses cupped seals - the Mcleod and RAM joints apparently use o-rings. I've heard of a lot of people having problems with o-rings going bad.
2. Budget for a TKO (or a set of g-force gears and case). Your trans will most likely go up soon, they just do (as long as you're not gentle with the car anyway... but then why would you be building a v8 e30 lol)
3. Don't cut the heater core pipes, you most likely won't have to
4. Stock rad won't cut it, get a mishimoto e36 joint.
I'll come up with some extra shit laterYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
garage queen 91 bmw 325is / 1972 Chevy El Camino 355 sbc 450hp
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My friend who is in on this project with me does fab work and wrenches on euro cars for a living and has a buddy up the road from us thats got all kinds of crazy 5.0 goodies. He is going to see him tomorrow.10 sets of different heads,intake and camshaft combo's and other shitz like that for our build.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
garage queen 91 bmw 325is / 1972 Chevy El Camino 355 sbc 450hp
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If you're running an oil cooler. Make sure u check pressure reading at the oem sending unit location. I had an eBay oil filter relocation/cooler kit. It came with threads tapped for a sending unit. The reading was misleading and cost me a motor.
The kit may have worked if it came with smaller stainless braided hose. -10 an is way too big.
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At the block I was only getting 10 psi. I had my pressure sender at the oil filter relocation block. That reading was normal. I tried swapping feed/return lines. As soon as I removed the kit the pressure returned to normal. By the time I realized it the damage was already done. Lifters and bearings were damaged.
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Originally posted by e30_302 View PostYou had a problem elsewhere, it wasn't the lines (unless they were blocked). I have -10 lines feeding a remote oil filter and oil cooler, 55 psi cold idle.
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I've got an '87, so it has the internal and external pumps (both stock)
Holley (low) fuel pressure regulator, return style, set to 4-5psi or whatever it was out of the box
Edelbrock 1406 carb, factory jetting/metering was way too rich, I've leaned up the cruise one 'stage', mains and secondaries two or three 'stages'
Surprisingly runs pretty good like this.
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