*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[e30_302]

Back home. Fired right up too.

[QUKBMER]

Some good info, yeah... unfortunately I've been pretty lazy about updating the front page for a while now.

IMO here's some majorly important things:

1. Budget for a Tilton TOB. It's more expensive than the other TOBs out there, but from what I've read the Tilton unit is the only one that uses cupped seals - the Mcleod and RAM joints apparently use o-rings. I've heard of a lot of people having problems with o-rings going bad.

2. Budget for a TKO (or a set of g-force gears and case). Your trans will most likely go up soon, they just do (as long as you're not gentle with the car anyway... but then why would you be building a v8 e30 lol)

3. Don't cut the heater core pipes, you most likely won't have to

4. Stock rad won't cut it, get a mishimoto e36 joint.

I'll come up with some extra shit later

Cool thank you !!! We are staying with the FI setup for now.

[QUKBMER]

My friend who is in on this project with me does fab work and wrenches on euro cars for a living and has a buddy up the road from us thats got all kinds of crazy 5.0 goodies. He is going to see him tomorrow.10 sets of different heads,intake and camshaft combo's and other shitz like that for our build.

[omarquez510]

If you're running an oil cooler. Make sure u check pressure reading at the oem sending unit location. I had an eBay oil filter relocation/cooler kit. It came with threads tapped for a sending unit. The reading was misleading and cost me a motor.

The kit may have worked if it came with smaller stainless braided hose. -10 an is way too big.

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[e30_302]

-10 AN is a great size for oil cooler lines. Bigger = less restriction to flow.

What exactly happened to you?

[omarquez510]

At the block I was only getting 10 psi. I had my pressure sender at the oil filter relocation block. That reading was normal. I tried swapping feed/return lines. As soon as I removed the kit the pressure returned to normal. By the time I realized it the damage was already done. Lifters and bearings were damaged.

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[e30_302]

You had a problem elsewhere, it wasn't the lines (unless they were blocked). I have -10 lines feeding a remote oil filter and oil cooler, 55 psi cold idle.

[jalopi]

yeah man, sounds like you were having problems with the pump or something. was it an OE pump? because i wouldn't be surprised if you were having problems then.

[omarquez510]

You had a problem elsewhere, it wasn't the lines (unless they were blocked). I have -10 lines feeding a remote oil filter and oil cooler, 55 psi cold idle.

Are you using a generic ebay kit? As soon as I removed the kit my pressure readings went back normal 35-50psi.

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[e30_302]

eBay cooler and lines, Summit fittings, Summit remote filter mount, can't remember where the oil adapter plate came from. I made up all the hose ends.

[e30_302]

Jalopi what's the specs on your fuel system setup?

[jalopi]

I've got an '87, so it has the internal and external pumps (both stock)

Holley (low) fuel pressure regulator, return style, set to 4-5psi or whatever it was out of the box

Edelbrock 1406 carb, factory jetting/metering was way too rich, I've leaned up the cruise one 'stage', mains and secondaries two or three 'stages'


Surprisingly runs pretty good like this.

[omarquez510]

For people doing efi, the stock pump(s) are fine for 19 lb injectors. I upgraded my in - tank to a walbro 255 when I had the 44lb injectors.

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[e30_302]

I have a cheapie external low pressure fuel pump that isn't flowing enough. I've got 6 psi at idle but WOT for more than a few seconds I'm down to 2 psi and stumbling. Time to upgrade.

[jalopi]

Hrm yeah that's not good. Go back to the stock pump, it supplies enough fuel at 7k rpms