My M60 swap

[dirty30]

Cool thanks for the tip. I guess it will just come out of the exhaust ports?


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It will blow violently out of the spark plug holes!

Might want to put a few drops of ATF in each cylinder before you run that thing.

[Jack89i]

It will blow violently out of the spark plug holes!

Sweet in that case ill have a friend stand over the cylinder heads "to make sure everything is ok" ;D

[jalopi]

Yes, a few drops of ATF would be a good idea, just make sure to crank it over for a few seconds without the spark plugs in. As long as you throw some shop towels over the holes you won't make a big mess. If not that shit will go EVERYWHERE. Like 'how the fuck did atf get on my wall that's 20 feet away' everywhere. your friend would look like he just walked out of a violent crime scene. lol.

[superleggera]

just read your progress thread. despite some early challenges seems like you're moving along now. nice work dude

[Jack89i]

just read your progress thread. despite some early challenges seems like you're moving along now. nice work dude

Thanks! Slow and steady..

Just ordered starter, alternator, AKG trans mounts, and DME. All I have left is the cooling system and driveshaft. I think I'm going to go with a behr z3m (s54) radiator. I'm completely lost though about which hoses to get..I think I'm going to run an e34 overflow tank and I just bought a coolant manifold/pipe thingy from a manual car..not sure what hooks up to what..there are 2 ports coming off it but there needs to be heater core feed and return, and reservoir feed. Any ideas?
Also does anyone know what belt to run if I have a PS and AC delete?


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[jalopi]

May I suggest a mishi e36 rad if you haven't ordered one already?

Also, get a piece of string and wrap it around all your pulleys, then measure how much string you used (leave the tensioner untouched [I'm assuming they use automatic tensioners]). That's the smallest belt you can run. Add an inch or so to the number to factor in for the tensioner, count the number of ribs on the pulleys. Most part stores can get you a belt by length and rib count.

FYI - you might have to find the part number online first (search dayco) to give to the parts store employees, a lot of them can be pretty retarded.

[The Dark Side of Will]

What car did the engine come out of? I remember some of the seven series cars had water cooled alternators.

If you don't have access to cheap (or yourself) aluminum welding you can always pick up some bypass caps. Most parts stores can get you an assorted box for under $10. Dorman makes the kind I used on my car. Big ones are 3/4", next size down is 5/8.

I've used these on my Northstar Fiero and they do NOT last... it's FAR more preferable, in my opinion, to weld the connections up and fix them permanently or otherwise set up the system so that you do not use these caps.

If you use these and drive the car regularly, you'll end up pulling the intake manifold to replace them every few months. Obviously if one ruptures while you're driving, you lose all of your coolant fairly quickly.

[dirty30]

Also does anyone know what belt to run if I have a PS and AC delete?

PM'D you

[Jack89i]

Does anyone know what this does and can I do without it? The line going to the left was chopped and it looks like the right goes up to the filter?


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[jalopi]

Look up the part number and see what it is, maybe that'll help. I have no idea though... but I do remember some of the early 7 series cars had hydroboost. Maybe BMW ran the lines through the oil filter housing to heat the fluid up quicker? Who knows... the part number will tell most of the story.

[dirty30]

Probably some self leveling suspension garbage.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Add an inch

Subtract

[Jack89i]

So I think (hoping) that this engine spent a few days in the rain. There's a little water in the manifold and sitting on the valves

I'm assuming that got there from leaky intake gaskets.
I pulled the pan and there was a small amount of milkshake (water?) in it:
.
The only explanation I can come up with for that is when they pulled those two plugs and let the water/oil mixture in the cylinders, the water eventually went past the rings but the oil stayed due to its viscosity.
Thoughts?
On a better note, I got the reservoirs mounted



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[36brua]

the pic of the oil pan has a bolt sitting in it. If you did not put it there it probably fell out of your oil pump. see link below

M60 Oil pump bolts strike again - 4 bolts and 1 nut in oil pan!
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...nut-in-oil-pan!

http://www.e38.org/replacing_oil_pump%28M60%29.pdf

easy to repair clean and locktite. chk chain tension set to 10mm +-2mm deflection

I would remove pump disassemble redo all bolts. My94 M60 pump had 1 bolt out and 5 finger loose ! GL

[Jack89i]

Yea this was my pump



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