M60b44 rebuild and slow project
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I'm just looking at open oil ports pointing up and going into the car with the cam covers off, where FOD could go down an oil drain back passage and end up in the sump. -
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I sure hope you're going to tear that engine back down to clean everything prior to final assembly...Leave a comment:
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today was somewhat a productive day.
I started to make a bracket for my oil filter housing in a way so i could eventually add a oil cooler in the future.

This is the Oem bracket PN 11421745152 if you want to use the rubber bushings for the oil filter housing

and the m62 oil filter housing and this will go where the cruise control used to be at

I got lucky since i have both obd I and Obd II that i get to use just buy the $15 gasket PN 11141736175 for the valley pan since it has a flat surface

also thread locked all the bolts on the oil pump since of the horror stories of finding bolts in your oil pan and also welded the but on the oil pump

this is where i cut to keep the a/c bracket and oil inlet/outlet on the block


and finally today i dropped the motor in the engine bay so i can start shaving off what i don't need and making brackets for things i do
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So life happened and i had to put the project on hold but after a LONG while i decided to pick it up agian.
Here are some pictures a e30 that i picked up for a whopping 600$ on CL for the v8 that im going to put in ;D




I also started working on the motor also so some updates on that
I tapped the hole that was used to lubricate the U shaped for the m62 and sealed it with a hex shaped nut with RED thread locker, i hope it works.


After that was all done i also started to do my timing after i got all new guides and a new crankshaft sprocket from the e34..... $$$$ and also got the engine almost finished up, it should be all together this week once the remaining parts come in the mail :pimp:
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So a scotch bright pad and oil is safe to use on these cylinder walls? Then just drop in the pistons with new rings, gapped properly? I didn't know it was possible to put in new rings without a freshly cut bore with that silicon honing process that is way over my head haha."Deglazing" on an iron block is completely different than the acid etch process used on an alusil block. Have you found/read success stories of people doing it this way?
My take is that if there's no bore ridge (and there never is on an EFI engine), and the original cross-hatch is still visible (most often the case on BMW engines) then the bores don't need any work... just cleaning.
I've never seen a build thread in which BMW engine that was still running when disassembled did not have good cross-hatching on the bores.Leave a comment:
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Make sure you plug the oil pressure passage in the front of the block where the m62 u-shaped guide went, other then that it's 100% bolt on. I've got 4,000 miles on mine. I calculated 10.9:1 compression, but that was based off of factory numbers, not CC measurements.Leave a comment:
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Very interested in this, as I'm about to start building an m62tub44 motor with m60 heads. Have you a rough idea on compression ratio etc? Have you got any further with it?
Cheers Chris.Leave a comment:
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What are you thinking what will be compression ratio and the difference between b44 and b44tu pistons with b40 head,?Leave a comment:
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not much of an update but i decided to clean up the covers a little today

Left is the after and right is before

Both of them after
I didn't want to paint them since it'll flake off anyways so i just decided wire brush, 1000 grit sand paper scotch brite and mother's bullet metal polish. The results came out good enough for me so ill just leave it like thatLast edited by robiniscool; 04-08-2014, 01:42 AM.Leave a comment:
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Yes, what's the purpose of o-ringing a block? I honestly have no idea :shrug:Leave a comment:
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finally got around to o-ringing my block


Decided to go with figure 8 style for my block since i was limited on room between cylinders

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