My new m62! bringing this thread back from the grave

[dougie30]

Bringing this thread back from the grave. finally got around to installing my new head gaskets and timing up my motor. next step is installing the crank bracket on the front of the motor and modifying the cam trigger wheel.

Thank god I bought my own timing tool because it comes in handy when your trying to mock up the cam and crank sensors.

[dougie30]

Another question, im getting my heads resurfaced. Do I need over sized head gaskets? not sure on the valve clearance on these engines? I know they offer them, thats why im curious.

[dougie30]

I haven't read that .PDF yet, but I have studied up on this topic a lot and might be able to help a bit. And BTW, Alusil is not a coating, but a high silicon aluminum alloy the block is cast from.

The jury seems to be out on whether you can see crosshatch on alusil cylinders sometimes, but if you can't see it, it's not abnormal. If you aren't looking to resurface the cylinders, then no problem.

If you are wanting to renew them, some people have had luck with simply placing the block in the big 'ole parts washer at the machine shop and letting the slightly caustic washer fluid (that still claims to be "aluminum safe") clean the foreign material out from the spaces between the silicon particles in the surface of the cylinder walls. It seems that the silicon particles are so hard that this is all the resurfacing that needs to be done in some cases.

Otherwise, if you want to use a more conventional process, Sunnen makes a honing paste (really like a polishing paste) specifically for Alusil, that is to be used on their hard felt honing "stones." People have also successfully used that Sunnen paste on their conventional hones by wrapping the stones of their hone in felt or even microfiber cloths.

Seemingly, all the paste does is polish the contaminant material away from the spaces between the silicon particles, pretty much like the caustic washer solution in big 'ole parts washer does.

The best information I found on this topic was on the Pelican Parts forum, related to re-using alusil cylinders from Porsche 911 engines.

good info here. I wasn't to interested in renewing the cylinder walls it just threw me of when I didn't see any cross hatch. A little research goes a long way

[Tjabo]

I haven't read that .PDF yet, but I have studied up on this topic a lot and might be able to help a bit. And BTW, Alusil is not a coating, but a high silicon aluminum alloy the block is cast from.

The jury seems to be out on whether you can see crosshatch on alusil cylinders sometimes, but if you can't see it, it's not abnormal. If you aren't looking to resurface the cylinders, then no problem.

If you are wanting to renew them, some people have had luck with simply placing the block in the big 'ole parts washer at the machine shop and letting the slightly caustic washer fluid (that still claims to be "aluminum safe") clean the foreign material out from the spaces between the silicon particles in the surface of the cylinder walls. It seems that the silicon particles are so hard that this is all the resurfacing that needs to be done in some cases.

Otherwise, if you want to use a more conventional process, Sunnen makes a honing paste (really like a polishing paste) specifically for Alusil, that is to be used on their hard felt honing "stones." People have also successfully used that Sunnen paste on their conventional hones by wrapping the stones of their hone in felt or even microfiber cloths.

Seemingly, all the paste does is polish the contaminant material away from the spaces between the silicon particles, pretty much like the caustic washer solution in big 'ole parts washer does.

The best information I found on this topic was on the Pelican Parts forum, related to re-using alusil cylinders from Porsche 911 engines.

[dougie30]

UPDATE did a google search and answered my own question.. alusil does not use cross hatch :D http://www.engineprofessional.com/do...2008_49-52.pdf

[dougie30]

QUESTION so I was checking out my block the other day and it seems to have no cross hatch in the cylinders..... they dont have any gouges or uneven wear they are just perfectly smooth..

im not familiar with alusil coating but does it get honed like normal steel? the engine only had 100k and was very clean other wise..

[dougie30]

More updates! got my cps bracket shortened and welded, stole the idea from monkeymadness. Also received my x20 connector in the mail and had a c101 laying around, they are ready to be mated i just need some wire strippers!:D

[dougie30]

More updates! trying to keep the ball rolling. i removed both cylinder heads, and they are being resurfaced and the broken stud out as i type this. cleaned the block surfaces and prepped for the heads to come back.

as i was cleaning them i noticed all of these small black gasket lines, they are very hard to get off, does anyone think they will effect any sealing between the heads and block?

[dougie30]

:firehop:Some more updates, received my modified oil pan and some exhaust headers from jabfabwerks, or driftingminor913 on the forums. pretty happy with the out come. the welds are very solid, he also did it for a great price and only took about two weeks. hit him up if you need some welding done!

[dougie30]

So some slow progress. I sent my oil pan out to jayfabwerks, he is the guy on here with the turbo m62 e36. He is in the process of shorting my oil pan. Im also getting the first headers he made for his swap.

Also,while removing my old exhaust manifolds this happend...

I tried to drill and extract the bolt, and the extractor broke inside... SOO my two options are m60b44..

Or pay 150$ to the machine shop to remove the broken stud and re surface the heads..

Any input would be helpful, maybe a poll to see what would be easier/ faster / cheapest?

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

[dougie30]

OK heres the skinny on the cam sensor mod. I thought I put it in my build but i can't find it.

The basic job is rotate the m62 cam plate 180* and cut all but the lower finger off but the one you need. Bend it to fit past the cam sensor.
Now the finger has to pass by the sensor, when the crank sensor is in the middle of the large tooth gap on the balancer. then your done. seems all crazy hitech and shit but its not. we're all over thinking it, it's simple


good luck :blowup:

also, just to clarify, all of this is done while the engine is at TDC correct?

[dougie30]

@monkey maddness, awesome info right there! i didnt know all of this was necessary.. looks like i have some work on my hands.

@dirtysix thankks for the answer, to be honest i think im just going to use it as is. if it blows it blows.

[dirtysix]

Third question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this?

Yes. And it's right prick of a thing to put back together. Dont often say this but a shop is your best bet.

[MonkeyMadness]

OK heres the skinny on the cam sensor mod. I thought I put it in my build but i can't find it.

The basic job is rotate the m62 cam plate 180* and cut all but the lower finger off but the one you need. Bend it to fit past the cam sensor.
Now the finger has to pass by the sensor, when the crank sensor is in the middle of the large tooth gap on the balancer. then your done. seems all crazy hitech and shit but its not. we're all over thinking it, it's simple




Read the Thread Below

OK I learned most of whats needed for the obd1 swap in this thread below. Seemed like pain in the ass at first but it was only cause no one said "the cam finger needs to meet the cam sensor when the crank sensor is in the big gap" ugh that took the longest time for me to figure out...
long thread..

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...version/page14








good luck :blowup:

[MonkeyMadness]

AWESOME. thanks alot, i appreciate it. now there should be a wright up for the b30 x20 to c101 harness adapter out there correct? i just have to find it? and the rest is just plug and play on the engine side im assuming.

Yes it's pretty easy conversion and wire up.
I had a tough time at first cause I have a 91 318 and the stock harness and body side c101 pin out is different slightly and I was over thinking it then started questioning everything and everyone till I finally sat down and went through the pinout myself. I did alot of extra work for nothing...

oh well I got it running.. ;)