My new m62! bringing this thread back from the grave

[MonkeyMadness]

Progress is slow right now, im doing the chains and guides because i have heard to many horror stories about the m62 guides falling apart.

@monkeymadness i plan on tapping holes for a m20 crank sensor bracket and shaving it down a bit so i can put it where i want and not have to worry about welding the aluminium. someone on here has done it thats where i got the idea.

So now i need to order the chains gaskets and guides, and the tools to set the engine at tdc. Its going to take a while but i juat got a new job so hopefully the 💵💵 will speed things up a bit

Lol.. that was me that shaved the m20 bracket and mounted it by drill and tapping the front cover...

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[dougie30]

Hahahah well it worked right?!

[dougie30]

Lol.. that was me that shaved the m20 bracket and mounted it by drill and tapping the front cover...

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Hahahaha well it worked right?!

[dougie30]

Ok so some slow updates, i found a five speed zf310 transmission for sale. I drove up to NH last week and the guy sold me the trans and gave me the engine for an extra 50$ ;D

The first question i have is can i use the m60b30 wiring on my m62 for the obd1 conversion?

Second question is will the b30 clutch kit and fly wheel work with the b44 and zf310 setup?

Third question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this? or can i pull it out the front?

any insight helps! I will re-search in the mean time.

[MonkeyMadness]

Ok so some slow updates, i found a five speed zf310 transmission for sale. I drove up to NH last week and the guy sold me the trans and gave me the engine for an extra 50$ ;D

The first question i have is can i use the m60b30 wiring on my m62 for the obd1 conversion?

Yes! that's the setup I have on my car now!
it's not hard to convert..

Second question is will the b30 clutch kit and fly wheel work with the b44 and zf310 setup?

yes.......

Third question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this? or can i pull it out the front?

any insight helps! I will re-search in the mean time.

Not a clue.. sorry

[dougie30]

Yes! that's the setup I have on my car now!
it's not hard to convert..




yes.......



Not a clue.. sorry

AWESOME. thanks alot, i appreciate it. now there should be a wright up for the b30 x20 to c101 harness adapter out there correct? i just have to find it? and the rest is just plug and play on the engine side im assuming.

[dougie30]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=230430&highlight=b30+harness

found this it has some good info on witch sensors work with the obd1 harness

[MonkeyMadness]

AWESOME. thanks alot, i appreciate it. now there should be a wright up for the b30 x20 to c101 harness adapter out there correct? i just have to find it? and the rest is just plug and play on the engine side im assuming.

Yes it's pretty easy conversion and wire up.
I had a tough time at first cause I have a 91 318 and the stock harness and body side c101 pin out is different slightly and I was over thinking it then started questioning everything and everyone till I finally sat down and went through the pinout myself. I did alot of extra work for nothing...

oh well I got it running.. ;)

[MonkeyMadness]

OK heres the skinny on the cam sensor mod. I thought I put it in my build but i can't find it.

The basic job is rotate the m62 cam plate 180* and cut all but the lower finger off but the one you need. Bend it to fit past the cam sensor.
Now the finger has to pass by the sensor, when the crank sensor is in the middle of the large tooth gap on the balancer. then your done. seems all crazy hitech and shit but its not. we're all over thinking it, it's simple




Read the Thread Below

OK I learned most of whats needed for the obd1 swap in this thread below. Seemed like pain in the ass at first but it was only cause no one said "the cam finger needs to meet the cam sensor when the crank sensor is in the big gap" ugh that took the longest time for me to figure out...
long thread..

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...version/page14








good luck :blowup:

[dirtysix]

Third question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this?

Yes. And it's right prick of a thing to put back together. Dont often say this but a shop is your best bet.

[dougie30]

@monkey maddness, awesome info right there! i didnt know all of this was necessary.. looks like i have some work on my hands.

@dirtysix thankks for the answer, to be honest i think im just going to use it as is. if it blows it blows.

[dougie30]

OK heres the skinny on the cam sensor mod. I thought I put it in my build but i can't find it.

The basic job is rotate the m62 cam plate 180* and cut all but the lower finger off but the one you need. Bend it to fit past the cam sensor.
Now the finger has to pass by the sensor, when the crank sensor is in the middle of the large tooth gap on the balancer. then your done. seems all crazy hitech and shit but its not. we're all over thinking it, it's simple


good luck :blowup:

also, just to clarify, all of this is done while the engine is at TDC correct?

[dougie30]

So some slow progress. I sent my oil pan out to jayfabwerks, he is the guy on here with the turbo m62 e36. He is in the process of shorting my oil pan. Im also getting the first headers he made for his swap.

Also,while removing my old exhaust manifolds this happend...

I tried to drill and extract the bolt, and the extractor broke inside... SOO my two options are m60b44..

Or pay 150$ to the machine shop to remove the broken stud and re surface the heads..

Any input would be helpful, maybe a poll to see what would be easier/ faster / cheapest?

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[dougie30]

:firehop:Some more updates, received my modified oil pan and some exhaust headers from jabfabwerks, or driftingminor913 on the forums. pretty happy with the out come. the welds are very solid, he also did it for a great price and only took about two weeks. hit him up if you need some welding done!

[dougie30]

More updates! trying to keep the ball rolling. i removed both cylinder heads, and they are being resurfaced and the broken stud out as i type this. cleaned the block surfaces and prepped for the heads to come back.

as i was cleaning them i noticed all of these small black gasket lines, they are very hard to get off, does anyone think they will effect any sealing between the heads and block?