My new m62! bringing this thread back from the grave

[dougie30]

More updates! got my cps bracket shortened and welded, stole the idea from monkeymadness. Also received my x20 connector in the mail and had a c101 laying around, they are ready to be mated i just need some wire strippers!:D

[dougie30]

QUESTION so I was checking out my block the other day and it seems to have no cross hatch in the cylinders..... they dont have any gouges or uneven wear they are just perfectly smooth..

im not familiar with alusil coating but does it get honed like normal steel? the engine only had 100k and was very clean other wise..

[dougie30]

UPDATE did a google search and answered my own question.. alusil does not use cross hatch :D http://www.engineprofessional.com/do...2008_49-52.pdf

[Tjabo]

I haven't read that .PDF yet, but I have studied up on this topic a lot and might be able to help a bit. And BTW, Alusil is not a coating, but a high silicon aluminum alloy the block is cast from.

The jury seems to be out on whether you can see crosshatch on alusil cylinders sometimes, but if you can't see it, it's not abnormal. If you aren't looking to resurface the cylinders, then no problem.

If you are wanting to renew them, some people have had luck with simply placing the block in the big 'ole parts washer at the machine shop and letting the slightly caustic washer fluid (that still claims to be "aluminum safe") clean the foreign material out from the spaces between the silicon particles in the surface of the cylinder walls. It seems that the silicon particles are so hard that this is all the resurfacing that needs to be done in some cases.

Otherwise, if you want to use a more conventional process, Sunnen makes a honing paste (really like a polishing paste) specifically for Alusil, that is to be used on their hard felt honing "stones." People have also successfully used that Sunnen paste on their conventional hones by wrapping the stones of their hone in felt or even microfiber cloths.

Seemingly, all the paste does is polish the contaminant material away from the spaces between the silicon particles, pretty much like the caustic washer solution in big 'ole parts washer does.

The best information I found on this topic was on the Pelican Parts forum, related to re-using alusil cylinders from Porsche 911 engines.

[dougie30]

I haven't read that .PDF yet, but I have studied up on this topic a lot and might be able to help a bit. And BTW, Alusil is not a coating, but a high silicon aluminum alloy the block is cast from.

The jury seems to be out on whether you can see crosshatch on alusil cylinders sometimes, but if you can't see it, it's not abnormal. If you aren't looking to resurface the cylinders, then no problem.

If you are wanting to renew them, some people have had luck with simply placing the block in the big 'ole parts washer at the machine shop and letting the slightly caustic washer fluid (that still claims to be "aluminum safe") clean the foreign material out from the spaces between the silicon particles in the surface of the cylinder walls. It seems that the silicon particles are so hard that this is all the resurfacing that needs to be done in some cases.

Otherwise, if you want to use a more conventional process, Sunnen makes a honing paste (really like a polishing paste) specifically for Alusil, that is to be used on their hard felt honing "stones." People have also successfully used that Sunnen paste on their conventional hones by wrapping the stones of their hone in felt or even microfiber cloths.

Seemingly, all the paste does is polish the contaminant material away from the spaces between the silicon particles, pretty much like the caustic washer solution in big 'ole parts washer does.

The best information I found on this topic was on the Pelican Parts forum, related to re-using alusil cylinders from Porsche 911 engines.

good info here. I wasn't to interested in renewing the cylinder walls it just threw me of when I didn't see any cross hatch. A little research goes a long way

[dougie30]

Another question, im getting my heads resurfaced. Do I need over sized head gaskets? not sure on the valve clearance on these engines? I know they offer them, thats why im curious.

[dougie30]

Bringing this thread back from the grave. finally got around to installing my new head gaskets and timing up my motor. next step is installing the crank bracket on the front of the motor and modifying the cam trigger wheel.

Thank god I bought my own timing tool because it comes in handy when your trying to mock up the cam and crank sensors.

[dougie30]

finished tapping the crank cover for the sensor. also took a pic of my modified cam sensor wheel when the crank sensor is in the large toothed gap on the tone wheel. everything looks to be lined up properly.

[dougie30]

Also installed the chain tensioner and when trying to turn the motor over it almost looks like the tensioner dosnt have enough spring to keep the chain tight.

i know it is actuated with oil pressure to make it stiffer while the engine is running but im afraid of the chain skipping before pressure gets to the tensioner on first start up.

am i just worrying to much? what if you lose oil pressure in the motor?? that it boom all done?

[dougie30]

ok, back from the dead. iv made crazy progress now that it has warmed up.

I got the motor to turn over and cough, will not idle. so im thinking the cam trigger wheel is not in the right location. has fuel and spark i just dont think they are happening at the right time.

can someone confirm that the cam sensor needs to see the trigger wheel at O/T OR THE LARGE GAP ON THE CRANK TRIGGER WHEEL????? i have it seeing it at the large gap....... i hear fifty fifty from different sources.

[dougie30]

OK heres the skinny on the cam sensor mod. I thought I put it in my build but i can't find it.

The basic job is rotate the m62 cam plate 180* and cut all but the lower finger off but the one you need. Bend it to fit past the cam sensor.
Now the finger has to pass by the sensor, when the crank sensor is in the middle of the large tooth gap on the balancer. then your done. seems all crazy hitech and shit but its not. we're all over thinking it, it's simple




Read the Thread Below

OK I learned most of whats needed for the obd1 swap in this thread below. Seemed like pain in the ass at first but it was only cause no one said "the cam finger needs to meet the cam sensor when the crank sensor is in the big gap" ugh that took the longest time for me to figure out...
long thread..

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...version/page14








good luck :blowup:

can you confirm the crank sensor should be in the large gap and not at o/t when the cam is seeing the trigger wheel??

[dougie30]

can you confirm the crank sensor should be in the large gap and not at o/t when the cam is seeing the trigger wheel??

I can confirm that the cam sensor should see signature at O/T and NOT at the gap in the crank wheel.

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[dougie30]

she runs btw without the cam sensor plugged in

[flyboyx]

have you checked your fuel pressure? this is where i would look.

[dougie30]

have you checked your fuel pressure? this is where i would look.

It has fuel pressure it runs perfect without the sensor plugged in

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